Ok, phase 2:
I finally have a plan that I like and it will be for an 80”x36” N scale layout.
I’m planning to have a ½” elevation in the upper right hand corner and a port/harbor in the lower left.
My question to you: What type of bench work should I use for it?
There seem to be several options:
The “open grid” bench with L-girders and sub roadbed, the foam base bench, the hollow core door and the sheet of plywood bench, to name a few. Since I’m planning to have some elevation changes and modeling a harbor, neither “plywood sheet” nor “hollow door” seem appropriate.
Using a 1” sheet of foam on top of a plywood sheet looks appealing, as it would make Landscaping very easy, but as far as putting in under the table switch machines and just gluing the track down, I’m not so sure.
I like the “open grid” L-girder bench, where the track is laid on strips of thin plywood as a sub roadbed. Elevation changes are easily done this way. I’ve found several examples of layouts build this way, but what I couldn’t find is, how you fill the 60% of open space to put in some scenery???
Build a little town scene, etc. Could someone steer me to an article that explains this procedure?
What I’ve found so far is: A picture of the track laid and lot’s of open space,
and then “Here’s a picture of the completed layout!”. Great.
From my first go at a layout, I already have a 6’x3’ bench that I wouldn’t mind lengthening to 80” and using for my new layout. It’s fully covered with ½” plywood.
Any chance that I could use that one and still get my elevation changes and the harbor in?
(Please ignore the mess underneath - it’s temporary I’m sure…)
Your skill level with wood wil be the answer. The most flexable is the “L” girder, then open bench but joints, cookie cutter, flat plywood with and with out foam. That is also the order of wood working from most to least. THe dream of your world will tell you if you have features above adn BELOW the track. THe BELOW is the answer. Foam on plwood gives you easy creeks and rivers, just cut the foam.
Hope this helped.
George P.
Thanks, George.
I too like the plywood/foam construction, although I’m not afraid of wood work.
(I used to work as a carpenter for many years…)
But how do you install/mount under-the-table switch machines, like the Peco ones that I’ll get for my Peco TO’s?
All the way through the plywood and then through 1" of foam?
i don’t know how long the ‘arm’ (or whatever) is on a peco machine , but i’m sure i’ve read somewhere about lengthening them to go through thick foam . or replacing the ‘arm’ with something longer
I built a simple frame with 1x4’s around the outside, and 1x3 rafters every 16 inches. The overall dimension is 5 feet by 12 feet. The benchwork is entirely held together with drywall screws, no glue. The interior rafters are 1 inch below the outside frame. I put 2-inch foam down, resting on the 1x3 rafters, inside the 1x4 frame for protection. This is the “base level” and it only goes where I have my subway tracks and will be the water elevation (sea level) elsewhere. Everything else higher up is foam, but supported on T-shaped trestles made of 1x2’s and attached to the rafters. The trestles are screwed and glued, because I only use one screw for each mount point, and the glue prevents rotation while the screw gives me all the structural strength I need.
This layout has no plywood, and is very light. That was a design goal, because the layout itself is not only free-standing (no wall mounts) but also mounted on casters so I can roll it around for access to the back. The legs are gussetted with half-inch plywood for stability, and I’ve got a bit of cross-bracing underneath.
With your 6x3ft bench already built, I see no need to rebuild that. Perhaps you could extend it with some plywood & a few 1x2 braces. The outside frame on Ntrak modules is made from 1X4’s. Then you could ads a plywood top to serve as a base for your layout.
Another step after drawing in the trackplan would be to flip the table over & do all the holes for the wiring drops. Extra holes could always be covered with the foam.
I am using the TURTLE and Atlas. I will SINK the machines up into the base with a CUT OUT in the wood so All I have remaining is the 1" pink Foam. Mounting is a little wild since I am using (BREAD BOARD) that you use for electronics projects dut a little larger than the PLYWOOD hole and glues in place. Than a little screw work and you have a mounted machine. (Bread board is less than .0625" (1/16) thick). I am using cadd to design so I have a 98% chance of getting it right the 2nd time. No cadd and laying it out on papere 1to1 is a 100% the 1st time. Get the picture.
Good Luck
George P.
