I have a Bachmann 2-8-0 steam loco and the short shafts fasted to my left and right drive wheels are slipping inside the drive axil that has the gear so it no longer moves when the motor runs. I have tried wiping any grease off the short metal shafts attached to the wheels and inside the slots that excepts them in the drive axil. Does any one know what I can apply to the assembly to stop the slippage. Bachmann no longer has spare parts.
Thanks
Brian
Yikes, that is a problem. Without new axles and possibly wheels you may not be able to repair it. But, assuming the wheels are slipping on the axles, perhaps you can remove them, clean thoroughly, and apply epoxy (ACC ???) and reassemble and let sit for a day to thoroughly dry before trying it out.
Otherwise, if its considered worth it, I would call or email Bachmann for a repair order and send it in to them.
One other comment… if this is an early Spectrum or non spectrum model, I would think twice about spending the money to get it repaired.
Oh, just hit me… you might be able to get a basket case off Ebay and substitute the parts from it.
If no parts available.
Make sure the axle has good serrations, if not you can add them. Hold one file in a vice and the other in your hands. Put an axle end between the two files(using the files edge only) and run the file in your hand back and forth. This will add serrations to the axle, I’ve done it several times.
You can use a good glue as referenced above in addition or try it first before number 1 above.
Richard
Repair of the model will depend on exactly which Bachmann 2-8-0 you are talking about. The ‘original’ Bachmann model was based on a Readying prototype with the wide firebox. These were ‘train set’ quality models and they were all over the place in the 1980’s - A popular version was ‘GN’ with a green boiler jacket. Many of they had the basic Bachmann ‘pancake’ motor assembly and were quite cheap. I doubt if Bachmann has any ‘parts’ still in stock for this model.
Sometime in the 90’s. Bachmann released their ‘Spectrum’ line of quality models. One of those models was based on a Baldwin 2-8-0 - A very nice running model with great detail. I have a pair of them and they have a gear reduction drive with a cog belt delivering the power to the drivers. This model is now part of their standard line and is available in ‘DCC Onboard’ and ‘Sound Onboard’ versions. Getting parts for this model usually is not a problem.
Jim
What you describe is obviously a very early Bachmann model that used a nylon tube axle with the wheel shafts pressed into it. There’s little hope of finding parts for one of those.
Super Glue will not stick to those nylon-to-metal axles, but epoxy might. Whatever you try, let the glue set for at least 48 hours before attempting to operate the model.
Providing that you don’t have a “hub” of a gear or wheel cracked or spun too far out of round or even “bellmouthed”, The method described of adding serrations to the axle should work. If you need a bit more “tooth” in the serration, gently use a serrated jaw pliers. before doing this, try to dry fit parts and take some measurements for axle placement (quartering as well). You may have only one decent shot of pressing the parts into place and won’t stand too much adjusting. Another hint is to use Loctite Red for final placement.
The problem is going to be how to keep the wheels in quarter when you put them on. Once you use epoxy or glue you won’t be able to move them.
The way I’m reading the opening post is that the wheel half axles are spinning inside the axle gear - much like the problems we have with the cracked gears on Proto engines. (?)
IF that’s the case, you could drill a small hole through the gear axle shafts and the wheel’s half axle and pin it in place with a piece of wire. The trouble will be ensuring the drive wheels are properly quartered prior to drilling the hole.
Mark.
If that’s the engine I am thinking of, pancake motor and plastic axle hubs, it is one of the worst designs ever. This was the steam engine which showed Bachmann how not to build steam engines.
To repair it, another option is to use some slow set JB weld. Get a quartering tool, learn to use it and then apply the weld. You should have ample time to adjust quarter.
Bowser made a whole series of drive kits for these engines, I build one for the J and also the daylight. Might be a few floating around ebay.
Instead of CA, try a two part epoxy. Don’t take my word for this, but I THINK it will stick to a nylon tube. It’ll smell real bad, but it might hold the wheel in place.
An alternative is finding a replacement tube of the same inner and outer diameter and transplanting the wheels into the new tube.
S&S
P.S. Depending on how hard the nylon tube is, you might be able to drill the tube and the axle part of the wheel and use a retaining pin. Placement might be tricky, but it would be more reliable then glue and would be able to take more force. Drill a hole all the way through and then glue in a brass wire (make sure you get the wheel gauge right!!!). The glue will just hold the wire in place - it doesn’t have to take any force. After the glue dries, trim and file the brass wire flush with the outside of the nylon tube.
S&S,
I’m not positive,but I don’t believe,you can drill through that axle,maybe a diamond tip,I don’t know for sure…
Cheers,
Frank
Are any of the below like you have?
Can motor style.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H114X-IS001.PDF
Pancake style motor.
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionbachmann/bachmann280consoliddiagram1990.jpg
Rich
Actually, there were 3 2-8-0’s in the Bachmann Line. The base Bachmann , sometimes labeled as Bachmann 5. I truly is not worth fixing. El cheapo, pancake motored running gear. And as Jim pointed out, the Spectrum 2-8-0 that we all love, came out in 1988. (yes, 1988) . There was a 3rd 2-8-0. From 1992 til 1996 Bachman produced their “plus” line. These were, on the outside the same engines from years before, but with internal upgrades brought from the Spectrum line. (including a can motor) Kind of a “mid grade” until more stuff could be brought into the Spectrum line
I’ve got 2 of them. They look like the original 2-8-0, but the run like a Spectrum. Oddly enough, they are doing better than my Spectrum consolidations as my newest 2-8-0 has had to have a motor replaced already [^o)]
I BELIEVE I HAVE THE SECOND TYPE YOU LISTED UNDER PANCAKE STYLE MOTOR.
THANK YOU
BRIAN
I used a Dremel drill press and a small drill bit to drill through the hard brass bushing and white metal frame of one of my locomotives. There was a Workshop Tips on drilling through metal. I think you just need High Carbon Steel bits. The main thing is to use a lubricant (oil) and clear the bit often.
The white metal or nickel drivers shouldn’t be too much of a problem. Clamp the axle tightly and drill very slowly. And regularly dip the tip of the bit into a little DW-40 in a Dixie cup.
S&S
If this loco is really valuable to you, clean the axle and inside the driver with alcohol. When dry, apply a little two part, five minute epoxy. You don’t need much. Make sure you have the NWSL Quarter or a similar tool to lock the drives in place with the proper spacing and 90 degrees to the axle. You should also have a digital caliper to determine spacing. You don’t have to be off by much to mess up a set of drivers.
The best solution is to buy a good Spectrum 2-8-0.
Rich
I don’t believe the problem is the half axle loose in the wheel, the problem is the half axle loose in the plastic drive axle gear … much like the plastic axle gear in an Athearn engine. (?)
Mark.
Thank you everyone for your help. I ended up using a little epoxy and it is now running fine.
Thanks again for all your help.
