When dummies aren't available - what do you do?

I recently started modeling and apologize if you guys have covered this before, but I couldn’t find it when searching…

I am working on an N-Scale layout and want to use two or more locomotives (NS SD-80MACs) to prototype a long coal train and a container (trailer train) train. All my units are powered Atlas or Kato (non-DCC) and I can’t find an un-powered (dummy) unit of the SD-80MAC (NS or otherwise) from Kato, Atlas, or any of the other major mfg’s. I also have the same problem for some 60M’s and 70M’s as well.

Can the motors be disabled? Is there another way to “make” a dummy? Help.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can offer or links to other posts that address this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance…

(NS, CONRAIL, CSX FAN)

[#welcome] Anthony
I model HO scale but if it’s anything like an Athearn loco, I think all you would have to do is remove the worm gears and drive shafts.

I am wondering why, if you have a powered unit why would you want to make it a dummy. I can see why you would want to buy an unpowered unit for money reasons.
What am I missing. My wife says I’ve missed a few mettings. [:D]

Jon - Las Vegas

Thanks for the tips on the worm gears. I think that may be my only route.

I don’t have a problem doing this, if I have to. But it will get expensive to go and “disable” some of my powered units for the sake of having a two or three loco train.

I have a few HO UP locos (40Cs and DD40s) with a powered and unpowered unit. Those are great. Just don’t seem to find any combo’s like this for N. Or, at least more modern diesels.

I used to have a deal with my LHS and purchase returned powered units from him as it was cheaper for him to sell to me than send them back. I would unpower them by removing the motor and drivelines to make a dummy. As I did not like the Athearn dummy trucks but preferred the powered trucks without gears for my dummy units.

Rick

Why not run multiple powered units? You know, like the prototype does? Most people would love to have all powered engines and have dummies only as an economy measure.

I am not trying to question your intelligence. …You say you are a new modeler…do you realize that you can run more than one powered locomotive on a train? Also more locos, the better the pulling power. This the case for N scale as well as most other scales.

I am puzzled too as to the problem you’re having with operating multi units (MU). Is it because they start and run at different speeds at the same voltage? On regular DC I’ve always assigned the faster unit on the lead to keep the couplers stretched. Or do you need a dummy loco for mid-train helper or distributed power?

“When dummies aren’t available - what do you do?”

Celebrate!!

Oh, you mean MRR loco dummies…

I read over your situation and would urge you NOT to neuter a perfectly good Kato. You can run them together as powered units, unless their speed is so unevenly matched that it’s derailing your trains. But that would be an extreme case even for a Bachmann.

I would dream of having a trio of powered Kato SD80MAC’s!

If you take an already-powered Kato 6-axel loco and only disconnect the gears, wouldn’t that add a LOT of unwanted load onto the remaining powered loco?[%-)]

To parrot Jon, why disable any powered units? Just double or triple-head the trains with all powered units – may be overkill on the pulling power but you can always break them up and use them individually.

Interesting, why would you want to make a dummy out of a powered loco? I never saw the use for dummies…

Guys:

I can think of lots of reasons to have dummy units:

  • lower current draw requirements for DCC power districts. You can have prototype-sized diesel lashups on all trains and not worry

  • lower tractive effort … model diesels generally pull so well that if you want to really need helpers to get over the hill, it can help to put dummy units in the power lashup. If you’ve ever tried to run helpers in an overpowered model train, you can appreciate why hampering pulling power can make helper operations run better.

  • make room for installing sound … while you can install sound in powered unit in HO, in N scale it’s a lot tougher. Even in HO, if you put sound in dummy units you can use larger speakers and get better sound. One sound unit in a lashup is often enough to create the illusion the entire lashup has sound.

So there are lots of good reasons to use dummy locos. I prefer to buy a powered unit and gut it – then I just keep the motor parts as spare parts to repair and maintain my powered units. I like having metal wheels that pickup track power because I usually install sound in my dummy units.

First, I realized I should have chosen a different subject line after I hit the submit button - but it’s worth a few laughs.

Thanks for all the feedback. I’ll try to elaborate on why I initially posted the question.

As a new model railroader I have a great deal to learn, so I wanted to preface my question acknowledging my ignorance in the hobby.

As far as gutting a perfectly good Kato, that is the last thing I want to do. However, I was thinking along the lines of jfugate where, in the worst case scenario, I did have to gut, I could keep the other parts as spares. So, why not use multiple powered units to begin with?

I would love to. However, I had a couple of practical concerns I wanted to avoid, but perhaps they are not an issue.

  1. By ganging several powered locos I was afraid that I might be damaging the faster (of the two or three) locos by over taxing the engines - in affect “dragging” the other engines along behind. If this doesn’t really harm anything I’ll just keep them all powered - and my dilemma is solved.

  2. By ganging several powered locos - where the speeds were not the same, I was afraid this might impact the power in a negative way - drawing too much current.

  • as far as using dummies, like I mentioned in an earlier post, I have several matched UP HO sets with one powered, one unpowered unit per set. The unpowered units are markedly lighter than the powered unit and only slightly heavier than some of the heavier rolling stock I put behind them. So, I acheive the look of multiple locos but only have to use one powered unit.

Thank you very much for all the excellent feedback. Thanks in advance for all the others who will post. Also, I’ll try to think about the subject a bit more before posting. :wink:

(NS, CONRAIL, CSX FAN)

“Practical concerns” You may be new to model railroading, but you’re no

Good points Joe. Converting a dummy to pick up power would involve replacing the plastic wheels with metal and fabricating pick up shoes.

Anthony, there isn’t anything to worry about unless there is a huge difference in pulling power and speed between locos. Even then, the worst that could happen is a derailment from the faster loco pushing a slower one and the least is unwanted uncoupling. The motor can’t draw anymore than it’s stall current and if it’s not stalling then the current draw is less than that.

If you can’t find dummy locos, maybe you can buid one up from buying parts from the manufacturer. Find out the cost of a frame, shell and trucks. It just might cost as much as a powered model.

LOL. Thanks…

I thought about building some dummies up, but by the time you pay for all the parts and shipping it’s cheaper to purchase powered units. (If you can find the right deal.)

I’ll hold off for a few days and see what posts come in. If more people saying ganging the powered units together should work ok I’ll probably try that. I’d rather do that then pull out the gears and drag a heavy loco along with the rolling stock. Of course, I could pull the engines too.

Anthony;

Echoing above comments, the only good reason for dummy locomotives are the ones Joe mentioned. Over the years, I have had a few dummies, but have sold those off.

For sound, if appropriate, I would suggest a three unit set, with the center one it motor removed, providing room for speakers and a decoder, which would control the other two locomotives as well. In your case, it would also provide 18 wheel electrical pickup. You would have to run a bunch of wires between the units, but the are disguisable.

Thanks to everyone for the tips. I really appreciate it.

Btw, Nigel and Joe, if you guys have any recommendations on sound units and decoders (brand, models, etc.) I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

And again, thanks to everyone who posted. This has been very helpful.

Anthony
(NS, CONRAIL, CSX FAN)