Where can I find extra railroad ties for Lionel 0-27 tubular track?

[overall]

I recommend the ones from 3 R plastics. I have used them on my own layout and they look great.

George

[Frank53]

Sounds like a good plan, but I have already secured my track down

Then mask it off in place and paint lengths of one rail at a time - starting with the furthest outer rail from you, to the center, than to the closest outer rail. In this way, you do not have to remask a lot. You can leave the step about wiping down the rails with thinner until last - even if it takes a span of days, as the paint comes right off the rails.

[lionelsoni]

There are no open ends to plug on O27 metal ties, in accordance with the overall superiority of O27 tubular track to O31.

Be cautious about superelevating toy-train curves. It can exacerbate the problem of pulling cars off the track on curves. I have suggested negative superelevation as a possible cure but have never tried it.

You can cut a bunch of ties to the required two-inch length at one time by stacking the Popsicle sticks.

Four 3/8-inch Popsicle sticks look good between each pair of metal ties.

[Frank53]

BTW, do you use cork roadbed as a foundation?

Yes, probably over kill, but I use it anyway.

[Berk765]

Sounds like a good plan, but I have already secured my track down

Then mask it off in place and paint lengths of one rail at a time - starting with the furthest outer rail from you, to the center, than to the closest outer rail. In this way, you do not have to remask a lot. You can leave the step about wiping down the rails with thinner until last - even if it takes a span of days, as the paint comes right off the rails.

Ok, that’l work. Thanks!!

[Frank53]

There are no open ends to plug on O27 metal ties.

I never knew that - learn something new everyday.

in accordance with the overall superiority of O27 tubular track to O31.

Let’s not get carried away now Bob.

Be cautious about superelevating toy-train curves. It can exacerbate the problem of pulling cars off the track on curves.

I have not had such a problem myself. I can see how it can happen. SInce I have taken to running shorter trains, perhaps that’s the reason.

[ezmike]

Frank,

Are you putting cut pieces of old O27 ties inside the O gauge ties as filler? I thought you were putting pieces of the wood you used.

Mike

[Frank53]

I am placing wooden ties inside of the metal ties to make them blend in.

[Serows1]

I am also using 027 Lionel tubular track and I purchased a bunch of plastic ties from 3R plastics, they are molded to look like real wood ties and they look great. I will take a picture tonight and post it later so you can see what I am talking about.

Paul

[ozoneone]

Sounds like a good plan, but I have already secured my track down

Then mask it off in place and paint lengths of one rail at a time - starting with the furthest outer rail from you, to the center, than to the closest outer rail. In this way, you do not have to remask a lot. You can leave the step about wiping down the rails with thinner until last - even if it takes a span of days, as the paint comes right off the rails.

I am also a scale railroad modeler, in HO currently. We generally lay our track (secure) and spray paint it (all one color), ballast, and then clean the tops of the rails. If you look at photos of real railroad track, the sides of the rail are generally very close to the color of the ties in most cases. On some branch lines and sidings the rail sides may be more of a rust color compared to the brown of the ties though. This will certainly save a lot of masking time and result in even more realistic looking track. Floquil “Rail Brown” is the color I use most for this. Here’s a random photo:

http://www.world-mysteries.com/dwp_tracks1cl.jpg

Good luck.