$Finaly decided it is time to purchase one of these and know nothig. See on the internet they range from $60 to $1000. Not looking to spend the latter. Initial use will be soldering track feeders to at least 100 pieces of flextrack. Feature guidelines, what not to buy, solid brand names appreciated. Thank you.
I believe this is the one Randy recommends. I bought one and am happy with it.http://www.howardelectronics.com/soldering/soldering-stations/for-diy-ers-and-hobbyist/lf-389d/lf-389d-xytronic-minitype-60-watt-soldering-station/
That’un ain’t a RESISTANCE soldering setup.
I bought the super fancy American Beauty for what is, pretty much, a ton of money. It’s overpriced. But it is also, as far as I can see, the best you’re gonna find. And I hate using second rate tools.
I got the high wattage version (more money). I got all the various additional “tips” (more money). And I got some of the consumables (a little more money). I’ve had it for several years. It works great.
The ONLY complaint I’ve got is with the foot switch (which you really want, so you can use BOTH your hands). It’s a little hard to use (the switch). It WORKS, but it’s sort of awkward. I am thinking of mounting it on a chunk of wood to stabilize it.
Oh, yeah. I should mention that, contrary to regular soldering, the thing can get real hot real fast. So you need to be able to shut down RIGHT NOW (see foot switch, mentioned above). I can also recommend practicing.
Ed
In model railroading you will have more uses for a Weller WES51 Soldering Station, 120V, 50W, ETA Tip than a resistance soldering system unless you modeling brass.
If you have done your homework and are sure you understand resistance soldering then compare American Beauty Model SC250 to other available resistance soldering systems.
RR Baron
I’ve used it mostly to attach feeders. I solder them onto the bottom of the rails. I also solder to the bottom of the frogs and of the points. All this is Walthers code 83.
Well, as I said, I believe American Beauty is the best. Back when I was buying and did my research, it was.
Features? AB comes with at least two sizes of transformer. I figured I can always throttle back from too much, but I surely can’t get it if it’s not there. So I got the bigger one.
They offer about 4 different “probe sets”. The one I use the most is the one where one lead is an alligator clip and the other is a plated carbon rod. This as opposed to the tweezer style. But maybe I haven’t run into the type of job that would need those, yet. I did get all the sets, 'cause I didn’t know what I could do without. I’d recommend getting the probe set I mentioned. You could put off the others and get them later. Worst case is your project slows down until the thing shows up. But it’s not like you don’t have other things to do while waiting, is it?
Ed
i would go with a 100 watt set for what you want with just the small tip set , as for a foot switch HF had a nice sized one for around 20$ its large enough to be stable on its own, the only accesory i recomend to start is a tip cleaner (or a non soap brillo pad).
It would be a good thing to clearly state that you’re talking about a soldering iron/station. As opposed to resistance soldering. Which is what the topic is “officially” about.
Ed
You can build your own resistance soldering station. They are not complicated. Google will find several threads on the subject.
If you do decide to build one, the smartest thing to do is buy an American Beauty “iron” component instead of trying to fabricate your own. The rest of it can be homebuilt.
CG
not talking about soldering iron , resisttance set 100 watt unit.
Oh. The reference to a “tip cleaner (or a non soap brillo pad)” kinda threw me.
I know that tip cleaners are used on irons (I use them, usually sponges 'cause I’m old world), but I am unaware of their use in resistance soldering.
I have never used one, and I am at a loss as to how one would.
Please enlighten me.
Also, could you please offer more details about the specific item you are suggesting: manufacturer, model number…
I expect the OP would like to investigate it.
Ed
the commerical ones look like a small pot of brass shavings to me never seen one in person just photos , but i do use a brillo pad to stick tips in if they get gummed up with rosin while using cored solder they show up on ebay from time to time / might add to op never i repete never use a risistance unit on anying thing any kind of chip , ic ect ect its great for track way less chance of melting ties but will kill most ic’s.
I know what a brass tip cleaner looks like. I’ve got one that I don’t use, 'cause I’m spongeified.
I was asking why you would use such a thing on a resistance soldering setup. And how. And, actually, why; since I’ve done a bunch of it and never noticed a need.
I was also asking for more particulars on the resistance rig you were recommending. If the OP is going to buy something that you are recommending, he’s going to have to know what it is.
I agree with your comment about “less chance of melting ties”. I’m in and out REAL quick (but, folks, you REALLY want to practice on some scrap track first). In fact, I’ve found that if I haven’t done it for awhile, it’s also good to do some practice runs first, as a warmup.
Ed
can’t say on the new ones which is beter my newest one was bought in 91 have 4, 2 wasco 2 A.B.'s. just recmonend a 100 watt unit to start, using .025 solder i get a lot of resin on tips making contact hard so i just stick them into brillo a couple of times to get rid of it. don’t use it on carbons .