Just to add more gristle for the mill, I don’t use cork nor foam nor AMI (black tar). I use wood. White Pine to be more precise (easy to get in New England). I buy a $10 medium grade 1x6" x 10’ board after a lot of searching and digging to get a board that’s straight and mostly knot free.
I then cut it into thirds (1x2"), then take these, stand them on their sides and cut them in half so that I have a 1/4" thick pieces. Then I run 'em through the table saw again to cut the shoulders. To bend them, I have to cut a bunch of slots in one side or the other.
However, it doesn’t dry out, it doesn’t “squish”, it can be put down with a brad/nail gun, and it’s easy to drill through for switch machines, etc. Track can be spiked or handlaid.
I have only used foam roadbed and do not see any problems with it. Its thinner which I find looks nicer, it’s very easy to lay (for me). I just put some white glue on the back of it, wait 5-10 minutes for it to become very tacky and lay it down.
I have seen corck roadbed layouts and there is no squishyness after you ballast for either type but there is no noise difference either.
If you ballast you track, there is no difference in the final product (aside from the hight of the roadbed) so it’s whatever you find easiest to lay or if you want thin/think roadbed.
Are we all talking about the same foam roadbeds?
By the desvriptions, I think we have the Woodland Scenics, extruded poly insulation and possiblt AMI Instant Roadbed.
Further alternatives: cork, pine. No one’s mentioned Homasote or Homabed.
Is Tru-Scale milled wood roadbed still available? I would put that at the top of my list for handlaid track, then Homasote and possibly cork. (I had a bad experience with second hand cork as a youth.) The foams should only be used with pre-fab track.
What my problem is, is that I can’t find cork! I’ve found the WS foam, homabed/sote, all that crap. But is there an easy way to buy cork without ordering it by phone or online from some place in spain? I’ve never asked them, but is it avlible at the actual hobby shop?
Sure, foam is spongier than cork. And if you run a loco on track sitting by itself on foam, yes, you’ll get some deflection. But after ballasting and glueing there should be no movement (not that movement is unprototypical, anyway).
Hi David,
You said that you have some problems on the 24" radius curves. What are the problems, I would bet it has nothing to do with the cork. I’ve used cork on several layouts and am thoroughly happy with it. Any problems I’ve had are always related to my track-laying skills or the gauge of a set of wheels.
Let me know the problem and I’ll try to help you diagnose it.
To Mondotrains
Everything ran well when I first put it down 24 inch radius curves all switches are #6 peco. Certain locomotives particularly 6 axle started derailing on the curves, where they previouly ran fine. Base for the layout is 3/4" plywood on a 2x4 frame. As I said before I glued down the cork and the track to the cork. No nails used anywhere. ???
Almost hate to do this buutttt…
I haven’t used traditional roadbed for years. I handlay my track mostly right on to the wood or if I use anything it has been extruded styrofoam. Haven’t used cork hmmm since the 60’s I think.
Just though I would add my 2 cents worth to stir up the pot. [:)]