Folks,
I’ve just joined the Atlas Model Railroad world, having deserted Bachmann and its EZ-track system. I already bought Atlas’ 83 code Starter set but I’m undecided on which trackbed to use – cork or black foam. Honestly, which one you like most? I’m all ears!!!
I’ve used both on my HO-scale home layout. Be aware that there is a slight difference in thickness between the two (the foam is thinner), so whichever you choose you must either use only that type throughout or some shimming will be required when you change from one to the other.
I’d say that the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed is easier to put down because it is one piece instead of being split like cork. I used Peco code 83 track fastened with latex caulk throughout – no track nails anywhere – and everything seems to be firmly held in place so far.
I happen to like cork. I like the fact that it is split as I always know where my midline is, I can make staggered joints and I can run the halves down either side of a diverging route to make my turnout pads.
I preferr the cork roadbed for its versatility, easier for forming curves plus transistions for switch’s.
best way I’ve found for for laying track was to use track nail’s at first but pull them out after ballasting , the ballast will hold the track in place just fine.
I use Woodland Scenics foam becuase it was cheaper at my LHS and I think its easier to work with. The cork that I had was dried out and brittle and harder to lay around curves. However, it was really old. I don’t know about the new stuff.
At least with the cork you have a somewhat solid base. The track is not going to be moving up and down like foam will (as in spongy).
BOB H – Clarion, PA
It all depends on what you doing, and what you are modeling. A lot of logging lines had no roadbed at all, so, the thinnest you can find works good. I am using 1/8" thick sound insulation which is used for auto stereo installation. If you go by an auto stereo place, they’ll probably let you have all the scraps you want for free. I probably have enough for three more layouts.
(I hit the wrong button and lost my original posting - will redo it with a little bit more care)
Before I begin I want to say that I am in N-Scale and you should keep that in mind as I post to this thread.
I can’t offer a personal testimonial as to which is best but I will stick with what I know best - cork. I’m not afraid of innovations - I may not always give new materials or techniques a try but I seldom reject something without first doing at least a cursory examination of what is being proposed or offered. At the NMRA convention in Seattle two years ago I let the manufacturer give me a demo and I have to admit that I was impressed. My questions were answered to my satisfaction and I gave a pretty good perusal to the literature. But conversations with some who have tried it indicates that, in the long run, it is a little more difficult to work with. I at least know the properties of cork, at least in making changes and adjustments to my trackwork and I’ll stay there. And besides, I give the oil companies enough money; I’ll send my money off to the cork tree groves in Portugal (and, Spain too, I guess); maybe one of the guys stripping cork is a model railroader - I sure don’t know many Ay-rabs who are model railroaders. Come to think of it, I don’t know any Ay-rabs who are model railroaders
I tried the foam stuff…but didn’t like it. It was much easier to put down than cork–just peel off the backing, and slap it down. However, it was a bit too “squishy” for me. Whenever my Bachmann F40s would run on that section (the rest of my layout is cork), the track would suddenly get a bit lower. No such problems with cork–everything stays where I put it. As a result, the foam didn’t last very long 
I once used cork but now I use the black foam. I just find it easier to work with. I guess it is just personal preference.
Neither. On my first layout (ho) I used WS foam and hated it. It was very hard to make curves with the foam. As others said it sinks when a train rolls over it[:(!] On my present layout (N scale) I am using cork roadbed. It is better but not great. On my next section of the layout I am going to cover the whole layout with sheet cork. I can not lay roadbed at all,I just plain hate it. Its your RR so do what you want [2c]
As chinatown said… it’s just a preference, and as you can see from this thread, lots of different opinions. I have used both extensively. Started with WS foam because it was a little cheaper. By the way, it is split down the middle (if you want to break it apart), and I found it easier to lay on curves if it was split. I also like splitting it to have end joints that are staggered. After using the WS for about half my layout, I picked up a couple of strips of cork just to see the difference. I agree with Bob H… I really like the solidness of the cork compared to squishy-ness of the WS. I like the fact that the cork will hold a track nail. Overall, I just liked working with it better and the “look” of it. So I completed my layout using cork.
One more thought. WS promotes that their product is much quieter than cork (maybe you’ve tried the little “tap on this” display at your LHS). I do not find any difference in quietness at all. Obviously, I have places on my layout where trains run from WS onto cork. I hear no difference.
But after all is said and done, it’s just a preference thing.
Isn’t the track base the most important part of a layout?
Would it not stand to reason that if the track moves around then you do not have a solid base to work with. And then they wonder why the trains derail or uncouple!
Some modelers are quick to jump onto new stuff and then find out that they might have made a mistake. Now the real question will they have the fortitude to tear out the problem and fix it NOPE!
They will live with it and some will even try to convince others that this is the best thing since sliced bread!
It is unbelievable! I know one N scale layout that used the tar based roadbed and the trackwork looks like ****. The trains run just like the roadbed looks.
And some state about the cork drying out. It does get hard but once you ballast it you will never see it or know if it is hard. I have cork from my old layout that is almost 30 years old and I could use it as it has not begun to fall apart.
BOB H – Clarion, PA
WS foam. Thats all.
Just to clarify, the Midwest Products Cork roadbed that is my preference does not appear to be pure cork. It looks like a composite made up of ground cork particles and possibly a rubber of some kind. This makes it firm, yet pliable. It does not seem to me that it dries out and become brittle like some of the older cork roadbed I have used. http://www.midwestproducts.com/cork_roadbed.htm
I’ve used cork, homa-bed and foam. I’ve even laid track on 3/4 inch foam and used a hotwire tool to cut the roadbed profile (awfully noisey) and am now back to using cork.
Easy to follow track centerlines, hold nails well,and solid feel, yet noise absorbing.
One other thing that bothers me about the soft foam roadbed. 20 years from now, will it turn to dust like a lot of other foam products.???
Has anyone ever looked at what the pink/blue foam was originally designed for?
Insulating the outsides of basement walls. That was it. There is no sun light getting to this stuff as it is underground. So the UV light will not make it break down like it will with most plastics. Let most plastics set out side in the sun and they get brittle. Ask the early G scalers about that. Aristo has their G scale track made with UV resistant plastic ties so the track won’t come apart.
Now they are using the pink/blue foam everywhere. Has the formula been changed to be more UV resistant?
There are going to be a lot of unhappy modelers if this stuff breaks down years from now!
Just something to think about!
BOB H – Clarion, PA
I want to chime in here only for more opinions, I used cork and built a 5X10 during the winter, when it got hot and humid now I am having some problems on the 24" radius curves, originally I didn’t have any problems. I am building a bigger layout this summer and I am considering using foam (woodland scenics) myself. I glued down the cork and the track with elmers glue. Any opinions on what may have went wrong with my cork, and would foam take care of the problem?
OK it sounds like a lot of you hate or dislike the modern day items for track laying. I used Cork on my first layout and never again. I dont know what everyone is talking about squishyiness have you ever ballasted it? I have no issues of derailing anything. I look at it like this do what you want but I prefer WS foam. Also when you glue the track down or use the ballast to hold it in place use T pins/ T Nails I use woodland scenics foam glue or modge odge never had an issue. Cork has limitations and makes more work than nessary where WS is lay. I have done 18r with it and up without splitting it. I’m in no way affiliated with WS but figure it should be said and yes WS foam road bed is split in the middle just needs to be cut with an Exacto blade.
No what I am hoping is I can give the Nubes enough information so that they do not make the wrong decision and have to live with the mistake. The responders to these threads have already made up their minds so they won’t be converted (maybe).
As more new modelers join our club and see how we build the layouts they are amazed that it is as easy to build benchwork and lay track the way we show them.
They have told of reading the ways the books show and the many responses on forums like this and they stated they were more confused than when before they started.
If you look at the number of visitors to this forum alone and the number of views on some topics there are a lot of people that are reading this info.
I just hope that I can explain the theory enough to them that they can make an informed choice and not make the same mistakes!
I don’t just use some material just because others think that it is neat. I investigate it, try it out and if it does not work then I try to find out why. If it still does not work right I am going to let everyone know and why. And using this stuff in an environment where it is in operation for 12 hours a day and days at a time will show the inadequacies real quick.
Its called Bulletproof!
BOB H – Clarion, PA