Hi,
I want to get a transformer for my soon to be setup. It is a 10x13 oval. What would be a good transformer for that with no future plans for expansion (as it is on the ceiling)? It is one simple loop but I want to make sure there is enough power for the room (without slowdowns).
Thanks,
Rich
I use an Aristo (Crest) unit from a set with no problems. I like the built in momentum (well soft start/stop) But be aware that some MFG’s electronics don’t like the pulse width control that these things use
I would just use a basic LGB powerpack for such a simple installation, its 1amp is plenty power for that size loop.
So with the basic power unit, if I wanted to add a few lights, or lighted scenery (I cant figure what else I would use), that should do the trick? Any ideas on what the MSRP for the basic transformer is?
Lights? Lights like street lights are another matter, they might require a seperate AC power source if the system is AC or a constant voltage DC circuitry or just simply set up a secondary DC power source. Otherwise the brightness of the lights would be directly coupled to the speed of the loco, which is often not that fast.
I guess I didnt read the original post completely, the LGB pack is sufficient for the track size you have but only has DC connections for the track power. They sell a secondary pack for accessories. Bachmann used to sell their basic 1/2 amp power pack with accesory jacks as well as the track DC jacks but its an anemic pack thats underpowered. I’m not sure myself how lights would be integrated, if it was like HO it would be on a secondary circuit tied to the accessory jacks or a secondary pack which is the recommended way to approach it. The track power is always independant so as not to overwork the pack or the engine.
If you need to use LGB electric points you will require AC , most other accesories need DC . Various transformers are available which provide one or the other but not many give both
Just get yourself an LGB starter set and it will have it’s own power supply and that is what you need not a transformer. This willdo to start until you have a better idea of how far you are going to go in this hobby.
good advice iandor - no point in buying stuff you may never need
as told from a local hobbiest, It usually doesnt matter how much track you have, it depends on how many engines you have running.
Davenower, NO you do not need an AC power supply to power LGB switches, the LGB system uses AC which it converts to low voltage DC in the controller.
I run all my LGB switches using 7 Volt DC, thru a DPDT toggle switch, works perfectly. LGB use a rather complex system which can be bypasesed with no ill effect.
He’s not talking about electric switches guys…
He’s asking about lights, like streetlights, lights inside buildings, accessory lights, nothing to do with extra track goodies, and these kind of lights often need to be powered seperately…
I would look into those Dept 56 Xmas buildings and what system they use to light those buildings in a series.
Danny
Well you have possibly told me something i did not know. I thought you were quite wrong about 7V DC operating LGB switchdrives but as i have never tried i cannot argue with you. However when you use track contacts they pulse it across with half wave DC, as result of putting a sigle diode in series with an AC supply of about 22V. So i guess that is DC at about 12V very roughly.
How long have you been doing it for and have you had any ill effects?
Do you have DC across the motor all the time and how do you get a reversal of direction for the switch; reverse your polarity?
You learn something new every day or even, you realise something you should have known all along.
I can tell you what they will not work off and that is DCC!
Rgds ian
Has anyone used the MCR 6200?
It is billed as a large scale transformer, street price $99.
So your saying to get this 1 amp controller: (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6064613847)
Again, I would most likely buy it locally. I dont think the layout will ever get larger (as it is on the ceiling) and with the total dimensions of 13.6x10x3 (I think its a total of no more than 60 feet in a circle).
The transformer will most likely only run 1 train. Possibly a Mogul like this: http://www.millerstoys.com/shopexd.asp?lgb=Yes&id=4200 or something larger like the Mikado http://www.millerstoys.com/shopexd.asp?lgb=Yes&id=2322.
As this is supposed to be something my infant son can look at as he stares at the ceiling (as most babies do), I was hoping to get some sort of cars that light up (passenger car lights, or worklights on an accessory, etc), i want to make sure that the transformer can run the Train itself (with 0 slowdowns) along with any lights from the cars.
The other lights I was thinking of are for decoration down the line.
I come from a Lionel background (about 10 years rusty) & I seem to remember those trains could use the track power for lights (or something like that). I guess LGB is a different animal?
The store suggested that I get a 50111 AC Transformer, 6 Amp, 20 Volt, 120 Volt(http://www.millerstoys.com/shopexd.asp?lgb=Yes&id=2894) 6 amp LGB transformer, along with this 51070 Analog Throttle, Indoor, 5 Amp (http://www.millerstoys.com/shopexd.asp?lgb=Yes&id=2945)
Oh, one other thing is to make sure that no fires start as a result of wires melting. I would want to make sure that the transformer has some sort of overvoltage protection (or am I just better off running a fuse between the track & the transformer?
Just get a starter set and all that willbe covered, why reinvent the wheel.
Ian
I already picked up the track & have it setup. I am missing a train & transformer 
I have two MRC 6200’s as I usually have two routes set up at Christmas time. Each will easily run two small locos (Stainz, Annie, Mogul, etc.) without over heating.
Even the starter set power supply that came with the Stainz will run two small locos at low speeds without overheating; but three will overload it and trip the circuit breaker.
For the ceiling RR which could have a 2 motor block engine and some cars with lights, I would suggest a minimum of at least 2 amps.
A great way to run a train for this requirement and have remote control is with the Aristocraft Basic Train engineer which I tied to a discarded laptop power pack that was rated at 19 volts 3 amps. The Basic TE is 2.5 amps peak and would meat all the requirements for a bedroom ceiling layout.
A remote is very handy when trains do not run properly and you can control the trains when you stand/sit/lie down right next to them.
Note that the Basic TE does have a PWC output, but it can be filtered with a non-polarized caoacitor if and when an engine does not like it. Usually it would be a LGB sound unit that has issues.
[banghead]
Ian’s right, for the rest of us we are making it like a muddy water…BTY can never have enough track