Use the alcohol, 91%, and if your daring, use lacquer thinner. If you have track you can’t reach and clean by hand, get a track cleaning car, there are a few different types, all use a pad on the bottom of a railcar, it’s just the car that varies. The abrasive block leaves scratches. How much this matters ? everyone has an opinion.
I used to use abrasive pads, but now I use liquids on a pad. Which liquid? I use alcohol. Why? It is relatively cheap, easy to find in stores, and is safe to use.
Abrasives leave scratches…Scratches trap dirt…Track has to be cleaned more often - It’s a vicious cycle.
I try and leave the original finish on my track as is and use chemicals (e.g. alcohol) to dissolve and remove the grease and dirt from the surface of the rail. I use the same chemical to clean my metal wheels and very seldom need to clean either.
Both actually. Bright Boy followed by a rag with isopropyl alcohol.
When things get bad and I don’t have the time, a little hair clipper oil. I then try to get the isopropyl alcohol rag out as soon as possible to clean up the “black crud” from the clipper oil.
The reason abrasives cause more problems is because Bright Boys are only about 250 grit, 600 grit sand paper is still to coarse, there’s a block of rubberized abrasive that is used for guitar polishing that goes up to 8000 grit, at that fineness it would have more of a polishing effect, smoothing out any scratches…
So abrasives are not inherently bad but the fineness of the grit is.
In my opinion (borne out by my experience) - dont!
If your layout is in a clean environment, an occasional simple vacuuming of the track will obviate the need for actual track cleaning.
I cleaned my track after ballasting (mostly to remove any dried-on white glue), using an abrasive block meant for cleaning contact points. Some ballasting was done just recently, but the majority of the layout has been in place for over 20 years, and that’s the only track cleaning I do.
The layout room is in my basement, and used mainly for only that purpose. Finished walls and suspended ceiling, concrete floor (vacuumed more often than the layout or track, but never swept), and a door for the room. No heating or air conditioning, but well-insulated, so only a few degrees variation between summer and winter.
Ed,I’ll have to see them on my track… I been using a bright boy for six decades and yet to see scratches on my rail with my naked eye or with my glasses on…
Even when I use alcohol I clean the switch frogs with a BB.
Obviously, the best scratches are on N-scale Peco Code 55 flextrack in a modern era DCC system. Scratches on HO Code 100 Atlas track steam-to-diesel era transition DC systems are not nearly as good. I think everyone will agree with that.