After visiting and viewing many layouts, there is one thing i’ve noticed as a commonality…most structures just sit on the layout, and rarely in the layout as they should be. It would be a simple and accurate thing to include a realistic and optional foundation 8-10 deep so building may be properly mounted on a grade or even on a flat surface, but with the prototypical look of structure being in the ground instead of being on it.
I have built foundations for all of my buildings as 80% are mounted on grades and I can attest to the fact that it is simple to do. If interested, just contact me, and I’ll be glad to share techniques.
I concur. For most kits I’ve built in the past several years, foundations are easily added with 1/4" or 1/8" styrene strip glued to the bottom of each wall. This can then be contoured to any topography.
It also helps to put the buildings in first, then scenic up to them, which eliminates gaps.
Bear in mind that most slab-on-grade structures don’t have deep foundations the way raised floor structures do. Also note that the real beef with layout structures is air gaps between the bottom of the structure and the layout surface. If caulking is used to glue down structures, the caulking will fill in any air gaps making the structure looks more like it is anchored IN the ground than ON the ground. Paint, ground cover and landscaping can then be used to make the caulking look like dirt.
I just built an industry for MR’s 2018 project layout, the N scale Canadian Canyons, consisting of several structures. The main building, which includes a metal-sheathed section made from a Pikestuff kit, I added a concrete foundation to. But the vehicle shed, which I’m modeling with an open garage door, does not. It will have a thin slab inside, which will probably not be visible on the outside. So, the answer is, it depends on the situation.
Well, I think I’d have to submit some photos, but my guess is that so many folks here have already seen them, they probably wouldn’t help sell too many magazines.
Besides that, there’s lots of layout definitely not ready for its close-up.
I’ll probably squeeze in as much as possible here before my photobucket account is collapsed at the end of 2018, but that will probably be the end of it for me.
I have to agree with Howard’s point. Having a gap where a foundation should be is not good modelling. It is one of those things I notice but I try to keep my mouth shut. Some of you will be amazed that I actually do try to shut up sometimes![swg][(-D][(-D]
I have to agree that houses with gps between them and the scenery just ruins the whole effect.
One other thing that drives me crazy (very short trip!) is when the structure isn’t plumb. Is it really THAT difficult to place a building on the layout and have it sitting plumb?
Like Howard I make foundations for all of my structures. I use ⅛” basswood (double layer 1/16” basswood for easy splicing) the same size as the structure and put it in place before setting the structures in place. Very few of my layout ground areas are level so a contoured foundation is needed. I don’t like non level structures either so I make sure the basswood base is level and securely anchored. I contour the foundation as needed.
As stated in the above posts I fill any gaposis with an appropriate foundation material, normally Plastruct Pattern brick or rock sheets. For light weight structures stained basswood piers work out pretty good too.
When the base or foundation is completed I drill a ½” to ¾” hole for wires for lighting. Where a hole through the layout doesn’t work out I run plastic tubing (¼” to ½” rain dip) as conduit during construction. I learned early on that fixed or inaccessible wiring is a no no for trouble shooting and future modifications. Modifications on my layout are 365/24 year after year. The ½” tubing will pass a 16 pin micro connector thus eliminating soldering in tough to get at places.
I have a lot of single-family homes from City Classics, IHC and Model Power, and most of them do come with foundations. I typically don’t see foundations on urban building kits, but I always put a sheet styrene sidewalk around them, right against the building, so the base is covered.
! was referring to a real foundation down to at least 8 scale feet so model may be mounted or planted on a grade. Several of my buildings are mounted on grades as steep as 30% thus requiring an even deeper foundation. I am modeling rather mountainous terrain…my original pike was flat as I began modeling the SP (T&NO) in Louisanna. Easier? You bet! Boring? Same answer!
! was referring to a real foundation down to at least 8 scale feet so model may be mounted or planted on a grade. Several of my buildings are mounted on grades as steep as 30% thus requiring an even deeper foundation. I am modeling rather mountainous terrain…my original pike was flat as I began modeling the SP (T&NO) in Louisanna. Easier? You bet! Boring? Same answer!
HZ
[:-^]
Hello Howard,
I sent you a couple of PMs.
hope to hear from you soon.
Johnboy out…
