As I have tried to save money because I haven’t had a lot to throw at a model railroad, I have used a scrap 2X5 foot piece of plywood for a shelf layout. I realize now that I should have purchased the plywood myself as the board I used was slightly warped. Now it is warped to the point that I could have build a hump yard and the yard would have been fully functional with the steepness of the hill required to do its job. I am now faced with building a frame and trying to salvage my work or salvaging what I can and starting new. Luckily, I haven’t invested much money in my layout and I have plenty to salvage. Still, I would have been better to use a good, flat piece of plywood and build a frame at the onset. Either that or blue foam. Word to the wise: use the best quality materials or you will have problems later on.
I tried that on the layout I built back in the 80s; big mistake. I spent more on lumber to brace the warped plywood than I would have on a new sheet of plywood, and I could have spent the time working on other parts of the layout that I spend fixing the problems. Short answer: ALWAYS use new material when starting out.
I would have to respectfully disagree, My layout, a free standing U ,appox.85sq ft. is bulit totally of scrap. The only stuff I bought was the screws. The foam top is also scraps, different size, color,tickness. I will admit it took a little time toget a leval roadbed, but the real RR have a flat surface eather. It gave me built in land forms .
I guess my point is you dont have to spend money, you dont have to get something you want, just think out side the box. Just my 2cents
Any table-top type of layout that uses a piece of plywood should be mounted on framework. The framework keeps the plywood in shape and aids in supporting the entire structure.
You will find that in the hobby of model railroading, you will learn and use all sorts of skills. Almost to the point of being able to build and wire a house and finish it off on the inside. About the only skills that model railroading doesn’t cover is plumbing, heating, and A/C.
There is scrap, and there is scrap.
A scrap piece of grade A plywood may very well find its use on a layout. I, for instance use a marine grade of plywood for my mini-modules. I usually get them for free or very little money, as the carpenter´s I get them from has no use for those little pieces.
To the OP - It´s not only the use of quality materials, it´s also the techniques and the design of it which separates the men from the boys. To avoid costly mistakes, may I suggest to do a lot of reading on the h2´s of our hobby?
Plywood is naturally flexible, and it should respond well to several stout and deep screws driven through it and into some decent framework below and around it. So, I prefer to use sheeting and sub-floor grades of plywood. What I can’t see covered in goop, or that is shadowed on the underside, doesn’t matter. What matters is that it serves its purpose, which is a stable and reasonable approximation to a planar surface.
I feel that, if wood on an existing layout has been structurally sound and stable, and if it can be used in new construction, why not salvage it? It’s not like you might be surprised to find it warping or something. Legs of 1 X 2, I beams that can be liberated, even sheets of plywood that can be scraped clean over a five minute period with a flat-nosed garden spade and a metal spatula, they all retain their utility and outlay if you can put them to good use.
If I can, I even intend to use some lengths of my spline roadbed on my upcoming construction if it will work.
One thing that I know to do, though, is to ensure any construction lumber is seasoned and acclimated to the environment in which it will be cut and fastened together. I don’t like splits, warps, and surprises, so I have long since learned to spread it out in the layout room, run a dehumidifier if the ambient tends to hover higher than about 66%, and then do the measuring, cutting, and driving about a week later. I have been known to slide some weird looking stuff into my vehicle that looked good going into it a week earlier, and exchange it at the hardware store. I have never had less than courtesy when I bring the defective stuff back.
Crandell
I have two furniture manufacturers I stop in at and take some decent sized pieces of hardwood of all kinds out of their scrap dumpsters. Also the occasional bag of the best, cleanest, sawdust anywhere. They are more than happy to let me have it. I even get some lengthy pieces that may have a bit of damage or bad grain or knots.
Another favourite is broken Hockey sticks. These are made from Ash and Birch. Also I am now getting quite a collection of composite shafts. Both the wood and especially the composite shafts are very strong and would be great to use on an around the walls benchwork situation or could be used as very skinny but strong legs for benchwork. The composite shafts are hollow and can be use for routing wires or control rods through. I have cut small bits off and have used them as spacers. A bolt or screw just goes through the hollow part. Every time one shows up on the floor of the garage or the rink, I chop the two ends off with the Mitre saw and add them to the pile.
“Only in Canada you say” [(-D]
Brent[C):-)]
Attending the Prototype Meet in Canton, Ct last June, there was a clinic on using plywood for the framing. With some modifications to the idea, I am putting together a system for me to construct my layout. I am cobbling two layouts I found in MR and do not want to fool around with being petty and cheap. I built my last layout in a rather casual fashion, and won’t do that this time. Oh; and did I mention that Tony Koester came up with the “3/4 plywood” idea, and it makes a lot of sense; especially as I am using plywood as the majority contruction medium. If anyone is interested in the progress, let me know, and I will keep you informed.
As I read the OP’s post, I said to myself, “there is scrap, and there is scrap”! Looks like Sir Madog beat me to it.
When I moved into my current sub-division (1981) there was a building boom and my teenage boys did odd jobs for a couple of the builders. I was allowed the pick of the scrap dumpsters, and came home with all kinds of cabinet plywood, 2x12s, etc., etc. It was 13 years before I had to visit a lumber yard!
As others have alluded to, you can buy new wood that is warped.
I bought very little new wood for my layout. Even then I checked it out o make sure, new or used that it was good enough to use. Then I would use a level and add shims if I needed.
Pieces of the used wood that I had laying around, and I had a lot, would get checked for usability the same as new wood. I do agree that straight pieces ow wood, new or used are a must.
Hi again,
As said earlier, “there is scrap and there is scrap”!
That being said, whether you buy it or otherwise acquire it, use the best wood you can for your layout’s benchwork. Take your time and make sure your “good enough” level truly is Good Enough!
Chances are, some parts (or even all) of that benchwork will be with you for more than just the current layout. So do it as best you can.
Plywood comes in very different qualities.
3/8" is too thin in my opinion.
Then there is CDX - I wouldn’t use this stuff for anything.
The BC 1/2" you can get it at Lowes, HD, etc. is flexible and needs a good frame, but will work. This is the minimum for me.
At the other end is 3/4" 13 ply Birch. It is very rigid, I have 4’ long bookshelves made with this stuff supported only at the ends. It has never sagged or warped even when holding a full shelf of magazines for years. But this is overkill for most layout uses.
I disagree with the premise that only the best quality materials be used. It’s a waste of money. You need adequate quality for the task at hand. If you’re unsure of what you are doing, MR has had a number of articles over the years on the subject (and their current project layout will cover benchwork in the February issue) as well as books. Get a couple to help you.
Enjoy
Paul
Very true. I use a lot of scrap and recycled materials for my benchwork and roadbed. If the materials are chosen and assembled carefully they should not result in a reduction in quality of the finished layout. I’ve had more than one visitor comment on how I must be spending a fortune on top quality lumber, only to be surprised when I tell them all the benchwork is cheap 1X3 furring strips, and nearly half of it is recycled from my last layout.
The OP’s description makes it sound as if his shelf layout consisted of unsupported plywood. Even the best quality of plywood would have been likely to warp or otherwise deform over time without some kind of framework to stabilize it.
You nailed it on the head on that one. My layout was (emphasis on the was) just a piece of unsupported plywood because I didn’t have the money or the lumber available to build a frame. I corrected that oversight yesterday and can now say that the plywood layout is now secured to a stout frame. Any screw holes will be hidden with scenery materials. Thanks to everyone for your input.