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Winston-Salem Southbound Series: Build an L-girder frame
Being a commercial carpenter for 37 years, (retired), I’ve built lots of “L” girders for model railroads. I thought this video was the most complete I’ve ever seen. Thanks David.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Just what I needed. Looking forward to the coming episodes. Why did you only put gussets along one L-girder?
David, wouldn’t it have been simpler to just make a rectangular frame? Love your workshops, like watching Norm on New Yankee Workshop.
I think this was a very good explanation of how to build out an L-girder frame. I know recently, as I’ve redone my benchwork, I’ve started to use my Kreg Jig and pocket hole screws instead of applying nails or screws through the top of the L-girder or in connecting the frames together.
Nothing like the smell of fresh cut pine to put you in the model railroad spirit! I enjoy David’s benchwork videos because I always manage to pick up some tips. It took me a couple tries before I learned the hard fact that no railroad can be better than its supporting structure.
David, why not cut one end of the cross braces to six degrees also, so they fit flush with the angled L-girder? Also, wouldn’t a 1x2 flange with a 1x3 web be sturdy enough for this layout?
I have a drop-down section to add as I get ready to close the final gap on my model railroad. It is a trapezoid like the Winston-Salem Southbound, so these ideas are great for what needs to be done. Our model railroad circle of friends has a running joke, “What would General Palmer do?” Maybe we should change that to, “What would David Popp do?”
Great video David and going back to the John Armstrong article was a wonderful acknowledgement of a great model railroader. But are you a model railroader whose hobby is carpentry or are you a carpenter whose hobby is model railroading? In either case you are very good at both 
Thank you ver much for this handy video David.
Is there a chance of getting a PDF of the benchwork?
Nice video of walking us through a complicated application of bench work.
Great video I have been a carpenter for many years and I still pick up tips watching your videos. Keep them coming.
How about something a little more difficult…like a helix.
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Hi guys, just wondering why All your videos are so quiet. I listen to music and other videos on YouTube at half column and can hear fine, yet I have to turn yours all the way up and sometimes still have trouble hearing. Any reason for this?
That was a protractor not a compass. Why not cut a six degree scarf cut on the cross web for a better fit? There is no need to drill a pilot hole when using all purpose screws in white wood.
Hi David,
I enjoy all the videos. A lot of good ideas.
I am starting my first layout and have a few questions:
- Why do you use a 1 x 2 instead of a 1 x 3 for the flange? I see that when you installed the joists it seemed like it would be easier if the flange was wider.
- I have an abundance of clamps and time so would it be OK to use just glue and clamp to form the girders?
- Why only two cleats? I would think four one at each corner would be better?
Thanks, Dave
Hey David,
Thanks for the great video, a wealth of knowledge. I’m building a small diorama modeled after the Jim Jordan painting, “Westbound Electrics.” Unfortunately, I could only afford one Z1 electric locomotive as the folks on eBay bid up the others I want too much! I’m going to chronicle the project and hopefully submit it to MR when done. I picked up a few 1X 6 pine boards today and ripped 2" off to create the flange for my benchwork. They go together tomorrow.
@Rafferty - I use 1x2 for L-girder and 1x3 for T-girder
j just watched this video for the first time and have been working in a shop environment most of my life and need to tell you that the most dangerous piece is the powered miter box, it should be on a table up at waist height to be safe, Perry in Arizona