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Winston-Salem Southbound Series: Painting an EMD GP9 diesel locomotive, Part 1 – stripping paint
Cody,
As a BN fan and modeler, it really hurt me to watch you “scrap” a perfectly good BN geep. I had no idea how many pieces were in that shell, so different from the Athearn geeps of long ago. My solution would be to petition Athearn to do the WSS geep scheme. Looking forward to your painting and decaling. John
Great video. Thanks Cody.
Excellent video! It is projects such as this which is why I find modeling so enjoyable, Thank you
Cody, Great video & very Informative! Just In Time ( JIT ), I say that because I’m currently working on a chop nose GP-9 project myself.
Cody, wouldn’t it be just easier to start with an undecorated model in the first place?
Thanks Cody, I’ve been waiting for this video. I commented about my situation elsewhere, so this is going to help immensely. I’m practicing on the one that was messed up before I do the replacement. This video is a great start and I’ve already learned new stuff. By the way, in response to the other post, most of the Athearn models don’t come with an undecorated version. Great video!!!
Very informative video, especially the striping process. I have always shied away from using alcohol for fear that it would damage the details and/or warp the shell. I feel more comfortable now in using the alcohol… You also made it look very easy to remove the various detail parts. Look forward to part 2.
Hi Cody, I really liked the video! I was wondering if we are new to stripping down a model, where do we get the information on the how far we can take it down? Are there references to do so? Thanks again
Good work Cody. It’s a pleasure to watch a thorough modeler at work. Thanks.
Hi Cody, Don’t know if you have ever heard of and or tried something called a spudger. They are specifically designed for doing something similar to what you were doing with the No. 17 blade, but they are not as sharp. I have heard of them in reference to disassembling things like cell phones and tablets. Here is a link to a google search. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=spudgers. Always enjoy your videos.
Cody, excellent work but I have a question. Has anyone there at MR super detailed an N scale model? We have seen you weather the N scale UP locomotive but can someone show us how to add those special detail parts to a N scale locomotive such as windshield wipers, MU cables, grab irons, and mirrors.
A challenge yes, but I’m sure we N scalers would love to see how it’s done.
Thanks for all you and the MR Staff have done and look forward each month to the new videos.
Peace be with you,
Arthur
Why the need for completely stripping the paint from the shell, other than the fact that then you will not see any underlying artwork or lettering. When I need a loco that I can convert to Northern Pacific, I find one that as closely matches my mostly black N.P. prototype as I can, paint out that that doesn’t match and mask off the new trim and with much less work, end up with a nicely finished loco. Working on converting an Erie RS-3 into an N.P. RS-3 right now. I don’t have an airbrush or a spray booth, so I brush paint everything. Paints are so good now that there really won’t be brush marks.
Seems like your doing a lot of unnecessary work, to me.
Kinda agreein’ with Bill Crowell from Maine. Wouldn’t be easier to start with an undecorated unit. Maybe the ‘overglued’ are painted and the ‘just rights’ are left plain. Just sayin’…
Great video, but I gotta’ admit that it only reinforced to me that my near total lack of skills and abilities will cause me to have my locomotives professionally painted. 
Great information! I don’t know that I would have the guts to strip a Genesis model, but you made it look easy. I love stripping paint with 91%. Great tip on replacing the alcohol after each step. Looking forward to seeing how you paint this.
Cody,
Very informative video and you’re a better man than I to tackle a project like this one. Takes me back 25 years when I used brake fluid to strip models of their paint and the alcohol seems to be a better product for the task. Imagine that, you having a cold day in Waukesha during this time of year!
Additionally, you gave me more confidence in working with the newer, more delicate models in removing shells, doing maintenance work, weathering locomotive wheel sets and replacing worn out bulbs.
Finally, you taught me a new word when you mentioned paint ‘schnibbles’.to add to my vocabulary. Researching schnibbles leads me to think it’s from your heritage in the Minnesota area?
Can’t wait for the next video.
Allan
I too have used 91% for removing paint,and it does works great. But sometimes I have trouble on other shells where it don’t work at all, can you suggest anything else that may work?
Okay, a fresh, clean model ready for the paint booth…Now how do you dispose of the used 91% isopropyl alcohol and the stripped paint goobers (schnibbles)?
I assume dumping in down the drain is a no-no…
Back in the late '60’s and early '70’s, when I was an NMRA member in the Pacific Coast Region, I used to build models for the Coast Division contests. Pop into the local hobby shop and pick up an Athearn SD-45 for next to nothing, mostly because of the complete lack of details compared to the present offerings. Get out the Binks airbrush and foot pedal operated compressor and go to work using blue painters tape to create the stripes required. One locomotive I remember modeling was a Cascade Green SD-45, number 6474, which I was able to photograph leading an eastbound freight through Skykomish, Washington in 1971. It came out pretty well AFTER I added on all the details that we come to expect built onto the newer models.
Anyway, thanks Cody for the hard work showing us how to really make a model look great. I’m looking forward to the rest of the series.