I wnat to switch (on/off) as short section of track on a loop in my layout. I bought a toggle swithc at Radio Shack. It looks like I need to cut the toggle swtich into the power line that runs from the transformet to the isolated center rail. Then the train will pass over the section when the switch is on and stop and wait until I switch it bak on…
Am I missing things or Is that how it is done?
You got it right pbugos.
Not sure if you are new to the hobby or not but don’t forget the insulating pin for the hot wire. If you are using Lionel or GarGraves track use the push-in connecters from GarGraves track corporation or small spade terminals from Radio Shack or other electrical dealer. Check your switch rating or you can burn it out, for Lionel I suggest using 10 amp switches, for H.O. use 5 or 6 amp switches and mount the switches on a piece of paneling or other material.
He noted “isolated center rail” philly which I assume he has gapped or fiber/wood pinned.
Thanks for the quick response.
I did use a wooden toothpick to isolate the track (Gargraves). Are the small spade terminals used for the same purpose?
I will see if Radio Shack can give me the amp rating of my switch. Thanks again.
Phillyreading
I jsut found out that the switches I bought at RS are rated at 3 amps. What will happen if I use them rather than a 10 amp switch. And, where can one find 10 amp switches.
p
Radio Shack does sell a 10-ampere switch for $3:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062485&cp=2032058.2032230.2032278&pg=2&allCount=68&fbn=Type%2FSPST&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FSPST&fbc=1&parentPage=family
However, these switches are all rated at 125 volts AC, which is much more than you are using them for. To a point, switches can interrupt more current at lower voltages. For example, you will often find them rated for half the current at 250 volts as at 125. I would go ahead and use the switch that you have. It will probably be fine; but, if it eventually burns out, then you can just go and get one with a higher rating.