Wiring for Dummies

Ok - I’ve read, and re-read, and read, wiringfordcc.com. But, I think I’m still missing some basic concepts. And, I think it is because I don’t fully understand all of the terminology (block, bus, sub-bus). So, can someone help me…

At http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#b1, he gives a great Wiring Overview - talks about busses, sub-busses, etc. In the diagram, he shows how all the wires fit together, to support a sectioned and isolated configuration. There are black, fat lines showing track, with spaces…and feeders linked to sub busses (which are tied to the main bus by a light bulb or disconnect), as well as feeders to the common bus. But…I’m not getting something.

I am assuming a “block” is isolated - so you use the plastic joiners at each end. (If you will, the “longest” section supported by the common bus)

WIthin that block, if you have sub-busses off which feeders run to the track, are those sections of track also isolated - like, i guess, sub-blocks? In other words, in the picture where his fat black lines (showing track) have spaces in between them…does that mean they are isolated…or does that just mean they are normal track, just showing different lengths (9", 6", etc.)

I am assuming that the feeders from a sub-bus do connect to isolated sections – but is that correct? Seems like an awful lot of plastic joiners. But, if you don’t do that…I’m not sure what value the sub busses and lights gain you. Or, is it that with sub-busses, you can more easily isolate, by unplugging the offending sections, and narrowing down where the short is - but still having the entire area electrically non-isolated? Or, do I even know what I am asking?

Can someone help explain:

What’s a block? - is it an isolated (insulated) section of track?
What does a “booster” support? - a block?
What does a “sub-bus” support? - a block as well? (sub-block?)

Thanks
Please, find me some aspirin…my

Yes, except many folks don’t use plastic joiners. They cut gaps in the rails, and sometimes superglue a styrene spacer into the gap. After it dries, trim or file it to the contour of the rail and with a little weathering you’ll never know it’s there. Works much better than the plastic joiners.

They might be isolated, or they might not be. It would depend on what the “author” of that wiring was trying to accomplish. If you’re looking at the diagram just above "General Considerations for Running Buses Under Your Layout, then yes, each sub-buss is isolated, with it’s own short protection (the light bulb). This makes trouble-shooting easier by isolating the problem.

[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by tfuqua69
In other words, in the picture where his fat black lines (showing track) have spaces in bet

Thanks. This helped a lot.

Where do you get / how do you make styrene spacers?

one good reason for electrically isolating blocks is it’s required for block occupancy (using current detection) for a signalling system . even if you don’t think you want that when you’re building the layout , it’s possible you’ll decide you do want it later , at that point it’s a bit of extra work to add gaps and make sure every block has a feeder

Use a piece of styrene the thickness of the cutoff wheel kerf - off hand I forget that value. Don’t cut itty bitty pieces - glue the whole stick in the gap, when the glue dries, cut off the excess and then file to shape. A package of styrene strips usually has at least 8 pieces, so you can work on 4 sets of gaps at once even with the whole stick glued in there. Not that the CA takes very long to dry anyway.

–Randy

Sounds like a good plan - build for the future. Thanks.

Great link for wiring for Dcc. Will recomend it to some of my friends.

Blocks are very useful, they are used for the detection of trains, Signaling , Reversing sections, Stopping sections, Cab control in DC. Control of current on the layout, Easier troubleshooting etc. Even if you just have One loop, it should be wired into no less than two power sections or Blocks. A Power section is another name for a wired controlled Block. Rember when installing gaps. it’s better to gap both rails.
All trouble shooting and future wiring will be a snap and your system will be setup To run on DCC with out a lot of rewing.