Hello Mr B
I’m using barrier stip jumpers so that isn’t an issue, also I’ve paused between throwing the switches.
The oddity is that the first motor works perfectly and still does with the addition of the second but the second one doesn’t. Both work when bypassing the CDU. This would make you think the CDU is the problem but if so then why does it work with the first motor? On the other hand if it is the wiring then why would they both work witout the CDU. Likewise the turnouts and toggels must be OK. I put the second one on top of the layout to make sure the accessory switch wasn’t binding in the “excavation”
I’m going to reckeck the wiring connections and then reverse the wiring to the motors to see if that will make #2 work and # 1 not. If I keep moving things around I might just fix it without knowing what i did. This wouldn’t be the first time that has happened.
With both working without the CDU says that everthing else is OK but then why would the CDU work with one and not the other.
Being a loner and with momentary toggels makes testing the circuits very very difficult.
Thanks for your reply.
Happy Railroading (?)
Bob
Partial success but no hurrahs.
The + wire from the CDU was originally wired to the toggle and the — wire to the common feed on the switch motor. This works on motor #1.
Reversing them on #2 and sending the + wired to the motor and the ---- wire to the toggel made a difference but not completely.
Throwing the turnout in one direction every thing works as it should but throwing it back even with a long pause it moves a little on the first push of the toggle and then snaps properly in place on the second or third try without pausing. Pausing at this point doesn’ seem to matter.
Should I consider this satisfactory and permenantly install the turnout?
I haven’t wired the LED yet and that will be only way I will know the turnout has activated properly.
Comments more than welcome.
Happy Railroading
Bob
This sounds like you might have a problem with the toggle itself. Try just touching a wire to the center post and one of the outer posts of the toggle instead of using the toggle throw. Even better, disconnect the center post and touch that wire to the outer posts, thus taking the toggle out of the circuit.
Mr B after trying your last suggestion without any luck l decided to bite the bullet and install another complete assembly of a turnout, switch motor and accessory switch.
It’s working like a charm
If at first you don’t succeed try try again!!!
and “Don’t Ever Give Up”.
Thanks to everyone who posted. You all helped in one way or the other.
Happy Railroading !!!
Bob
So, did you test out that second one again to see where the problem is? Try the same toggle with a different switch motor, and try a different toggle witht he same switch motor. One way or the other it should work, pointing to either a bad toggle or bad switch motor.
–Randy
Randy,
As per Mr B’s suggestion I checked out the toggels and they were OK. After I switched the power leads the motor worked fine turning in one direction but took several attempts going the other way moving a little bit at first and then snapping into position.
I hadn’t planned on mentioning this but since you asked what I found wrong I’ll tell.
I could blame it on Peco but the truth is that I didn’t secure the accessory switch properly to the motor and it moved ever so slightly after the turnout was back in position causing it to bind just enough to cause trouble. When I reinstalled the switch on the track bed it moved freely.but something happened after that.
I’ve paid one heck of a price for this mistake. I can’t count the number of times I crawed under the layout as well as the time spent. If I could have gotten comfortable under there I believe I would have taken a nap at times.
Next comes the LED hook ups
Once again, thanks everyone
Happy Railroading
Bob
Not sure if you are pulling up existing track to install the motors, or installing the motors on the turnout and then installing the whole thing as a unit, but if the latter, hook up an extra toggle at the bench with a couple of clip leads, plus a clip lead from the common, and test throw each one before you put it on the layout. That’s not as much help if you already have the track fastened in place and are going back to install the motors since it’s more likely that binding will occur AFTER you attach the motor to the turnout, but it might save you some extra crawling.
I usually make mistakes like this once, maybe twice before I realize there has to be an easier way and take a moment to figure out what I can do to make life more comfortable. I’ll still contemplating my servo installs, although the brackets I have come with double-sided tape which should hold everything in place while I check the movement and then install screws for a more permanent attachment.
–Randy
Randy,
Looking ahead future installations should go much smoother. After all if hadn’t been for the poor installation of the accessory switch there was no problem and we wouldn’t be talking about this.
Before laying track I learned on the forum to remove ties from track connecting to turnouts so the rail joiners could be slid back enabling the turnout to be removed. The turnouts have not been ballasted but I did weather the rail of one and had to use Cody G’s suggestion for loosening paint bottle caps,with water to loosen the joiners.
I look forward to the next installation with confidence but the LEDs on the control panel come next.
Thanks for your help.
Happy Railroading
Bob
Ah, ballasting. I install the machines on the Peco turnouts, mounted directly to the underside. This leaves a large, unsightly gap beneath the turnout. Using a tip I first read here, and then in MR, I put a piece of thin cardboard between the machine and the turnout when I assemble them. I pre-cut the cardboard with slots to accomodate the mounting tabs and throw rod, and paint the surface gray to roughly match my ballast. Then, I can lightly ballast right above the machine or leave the space unballasted (safer, but it doesn’t look as good) without being able to see through to the floor.
Randy’s suggestion that you bench-test your turnouts is a good one. I do that with all my switch machines. So far, no bad ones.
Randy & Mr. B
Thanks for the tips on testing and ballasting. It all makes sense.
The tiring part of this installation was the time and effort looking for a problem under the layout that didn’t exist when it was actually on top.
Happy Railroading
Bob