I have learned that AWG 12 stranded wire is good for the track power bus and AWG 18 stranded wire is good for track feeders.
But what AWG size should be used to wire tortoises? I want to wire them like this:
I wired all of my tortoise machines with telephone wire, which is 24 AWG I believe. I simply bought a 100 roll of the wire at a hardware store, removed the cover and seperated the wires into their colors. That way I had a built in color code for the project.
Ok, so I don’t need more then 24 AWG, thanks. How did you wire them, like my picture?
I use 22 gauge stranded wire. This is available in 33’ rolls from Brawa and 100’ rolls from Miniatronics. Stranded wire is much more flexible than similarly sized single strand wire and it is easier to work with in my opinion. Resist the temptation to simply twist it onto the Tortoise. Soldering is essential for good connections.
Your wiring diagram is correct!
When I started wiring my tortoise SMM I only had two sizes on hand, so I used the 20 gauge. It’s a little big for the job, but works fine.
Trevor[:)]
I used 22 gauge thermostat wire from Home Depot - copper stuff, it worked very well.
While either stranded or solid wire will work well, I would venture a guess from previous posts that most of us prefer to use solid (no polls please, LOL). Solid is easier to work with in that once it is bent in place, it stays there. It also is easier to solder because you are not haveing to try and keep all those little tiny wires in the right place. A stray wire can cause a short at times. I use both in different places on the layout. It often depends on what I have in stock. Conductivity is virtually the same in either case, and it boils down to personal preference. You are right that #24 wire is plenty big enough for wiring a toroise machine. Always err on the side of too large if you have to make a choice. Your wiring is correct.
SMALL. I have tons of leftover 8-conductor network cable, so I just use that. I don’t need the contacts run back to the panel, so I just zip off the outer insulation (there’s a tracer string to do this) and use the individual pairs. It’s run wire, not patch cable wire, so it’s solid conductor, 24-26 gauge. Telephone wire would work just fine.
A Tortoise only draws a max of about 15ma, so just about ANY wire will work.
–Randy
So I can’t really compare a tortoise with for example a track power bus when it comes to how much it draws? So a AWG 12 or even a AWG 18 is major overkill?
Yes, and you may not even get it into the Tortoise. EL, if you have an electronics supply store, even a hardware store nearby, you should be able to pick up rolls of 22 guage wire. Even better, if you knew someone who wires houses for telephones, he/she would slip you a big fat wad of it.
You might use #18 from the power supply to the control panel, but from each toggle out to the Tortoise, yeah, WAY overkill. #18 will never fit in the hole on the Tortoise.
I’m kind of digging those Tortoise with screw terminals that Empire Northern sells. $2 more but you get 8 easy screw terminals. The stock holes on the Tortoise are staggered for some odd reason, so I assume new holes must be drilled to line up the terminals. Seems more reliable than using an edge card connector, too.
–Randy
I used 8-wire telephone wire. I soldered the wire to the Tortoise terminal and then ran the wires to an 8 post terminal strip. I am currently only using the outer contacts but when I am ready to connect to the other contacts, I do not have to disturb the switch machine.
There was an article in Working on the Railroad by Lionel Stang a few years back. That is where i got the idea.
HTH…Ken
[#ditto]
I also terminate all tortoise points to a terminal strip. To add: I always run a multiple pair cable of 4 pair to this terminal strip from my stationary decoders that are located in a central part of the layout. If the cable is not true telephone cable colors (blue, orange, green, brown, slate, w/white tracer wire) then figure out a color code for terminal 1, then 2, then etc… Stay with this code throughout your layout and it will save on mistakes.
I only hook up those necessary for operating the Tortoise, but I never cut the spare pairs off. Instead, I wrap them around the cable for future use. I use stationary decoders in a central location. If I want to hook up a light in that area, I just pick a pair to connect it to and terminate the other end to the power or control source at the central point. Saves running more wire.[;)]
REX
Kinda like this?
I’d recommend cat-5 networking cable. 8 conductors and you can use easy-to-find connectors throughout your layout. I, however, did not follow my own advice. I recommend soldering the wires to the switch machine and use connectors or terminal blocks near the control panel (not the switch) However, you can put the connectors near the switch. It’s your call.
-Tom
To use a cat-5 cable sounds like an terrific idea, thanks. What are the pros and cons by putting the terminal blocks near the switch or control panel? The first thing I’m thinking of is future use of the middle 6 connectors on the tortoise. Can I run into trouble if I place the terminal block at the wrong location?
Folks, gotta jump in and ask, if i’m going to use my tortoise to switch DCC power on a turnout…
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do i need to use 18AWG or larger to the machine, if so will i be able to solder wire this big on the connectors on the machine? assume i shouldnt use 24AWG or such here?
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ive asked in the past, apparently the tortoise internal switches can handle the amps? agree?
i realize i cannot use a 4pdt switch at the control pannel as the tortoise takes time to move, i assume i’d have a short every time, right?
thanks, bt
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If you have Cat 5 cable on hand or can get it free, then fine. Otherwise, you will be paying a lot of extra money for something you don’t need. Cat 5 is designed to prevent “cross-talk” between pairs in high speed data communications…something you don’t need to use and pay for.
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Ordinary telephone cable, that is mostly 24 gauge solid conductor, is all you need to handle the very small current that a tortoise uses and it is a lot cheaper. Some telephone installers will give you hundreds of feet for nothing. Just smile.
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The wiring advantage to using terminal strips is that you can easily disconnect and change out wiring locations without having to remove components. In other words: You want to change switch 5 to switch number 8. All you have to do is move the wires on the terminal strip and not the switch or component.
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I like to hard wire (solder) my tortoise with a 12" piece of cable and terminate the other end to a terminal strip, very much like HOWMUS picture. Then I run a main cable back to a central location and terminate the other end to another terminal strip. There I can connect to a decoder, toggle, push-button, or whatever.
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Again, I recommend not cutting off unused wires. These can be used for future expansion keeping you from having to run more wires/cable.
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If you are controlling locally, I still recommend the terminal strip between the tortoise and the local control component.
REX
I bought a spool of #20 red and white thermostat wire (almost a lifetime supply) and use it for all my track drops and also power my tortoise machines with 2-terminal blocks. Hint: for crossovers and runarounds, etc. I connect both machines to the same terminal block and use one control for both. No chance of a mishap!
rtesta,
Routing power on a turnout or powering a frog is the same current/power that you would have going through a track feeder wire. I believe many of us would agree that 22-24 gauge wire is plenty big for both uses.
The aux. contacts on a tortoise can handle 4 amps of current. You will not have a problem powering frogs, signals, and etc… The “switching rating” at 1 amp that is given in the Tortoise directions only refers to continuous opening and closing like a flashing lamp.
I am not sure I understand your question about a 4pdt switch, but the Tortoise aux. contacts will do the job for power routing.
REX