I’ve stuck to sectional track but I’m switching to peco N scale code 55 track, the track(aside from turnouts is flex).
How would one work with flex track? (I’m assuming working with flex in N would be similar to HO scale.)
I have a pair of Xuron rail nippers so I’m prepped there but I’m curious about how you guys cut it, any thoughts are welcome.
I’ve used flex track for a long time…in HO mostly but for a period of time when working with N. I’ve used a Dremel to cut rail in a manner similar to cutting real rail…but with the Dremel on it’s lowest speed setting to prevent excessive heat build up and tie melting from cutting. Never used rail nippers.
I would say that using flex…think out what you’re doing. Fit it with care and then cut. When flexing into a curve remember your inside rail will always extend over the outside rail and most likely it will be the one to cut.
Take your time…don’t rush with flex track. Kinks and bad joints can cause more problems than their worth.
Best wishes and have fun
Mark H
got it, thanks.
So the movable rail is the inside one.
thank you again.
Gidday Gary, HO and also use a Dremel cutoff wheel, I also use needle files to remove any burrs. The Mark One Eyeball with a bit of practice is a handy tool for looking for kinks and other undesirables. I did scratch build a very light weight 89 foot flat car for pushing by hand to test my track work, Not saying that you possess one but you worst tracking passenger car might do the same sort of test.
Good supporting bench work is important ,but excellent track work is, in my opinion , Most Important!!!. Its not that hard , take your time, be fernickity, and Have Fun.[:D]
Cheers, the Bear.
Gary,
A couple more,tip’s, try not to have your joints,across from one another,especially in curves. If you have to,cut off at least, one inch,of one rail,so the joints will be staggered, you will never regret it. Also don’t have rail joints, over a roadbed joint, or a layout frame work joint, keep that in mind,when you lay your track and again you will never regret it, a good key to bullet proof track. Have Fun!
Cheers, [D]
Frank
I have used rail nippers, dremel cutoff wheel, and razor saw. For me the nippers work the best. The razor saw works but is hardest to use.
Make sure the nippers are at right angles to the rail - both up and down as well as side to side. You will have some clean up on one side of the cut (or you can reverse the nippers and cut the scrap side again for a cleaner cut), other side should be minimal.
Good luck
Paul
I use Xuron rail nippers to cut flex track. I cut from the bottom up on the rails, making sure that the nippers on at a 90 degree angle to the rail.
On curves, I solder the outside of both rails on the connected pieces while they are laying perfectly straight on the work bench. Staggering the rails seems unnecessary, in my experience.
Rich
I flattened the back side of a pair of $2.00 diagonal cutters using a bench grinder. They work as well if not better that the xuron cutters on code 100 rail. I had rail nippers, just wanted to see if I could do it.
charlie (cheap like the Lion)
I have used both the Dremel, and the Xuron cutters. Whichever I use, I use this tool from Micro Mark to keep the rail from rolling over or breaking loose from the ties when I cut.
If you cut track with a razor saw, then a tool the one shown above would be a really good idea. But the last time I used a razor saw was when I was a teenager in the stone ages of my model railroading life.
In my twenties I “leveled up” to using a Demel with a cutoff disk. I have never rolled a rail over in the ties with a dremel; all you have to do is be careful to wear eye protection. Dremel became my favorite.
Later on I picked up a Xuron and found those work well, but you do need to “dress” the end of the rail as it doesn’t cut it perfectly flat and straight. I never had problems with rail rolling over with the Xuron either.
If cost is a consideration, then Xuron is probably the best compromise. I picked up a brand new older model Dremel for $35 which I’ll use, plus I still have a Dremel I bought in the early 80’s that still works.
I believe the above commentary would apply for both N and HO flex. I’ve used both but only HO for the past 25 years.
Cheers.
(I use a Dremel cutting wheel on HO Code 70 rail). But a tip not previously mentioned applies to both sectional and flex track - but even more to flex track when one has cut the rail: Use a small file to lightly “dress” the rail head at the cut. Insure that there are no burrs on the bottom or edges of the rail - this allows the rail joiners to slide on easily. The light rounding of the edges of the cut end of the rail reduces the chance of a flange catching on the joint and helps keep things smooth and quiet.
Bill
I mentioned dressing the end of the rail in my post above. Just bolded it in case it gets missed.
I have never used the saw, but I have had a rail come loose when being cut.
My favorite tool for cutting rail is a pair of “aircraft shears” available at most hardware stores. They make nice, clean cuts in rail.
All of the replies have excellent suggestions.
While laying flex track on curves, be careful not to leave kinks at the rail joints. To me the best solution is to hold the ends of two pieces a track together with joiners installed. Hold at least six inches of each of the two pieces of track with the rails straight. While doing this the joints, of course, will be straight. Next, solder the joints in place. Then bend to track into the desired curvature. The soldered joints will not kink.
It is also helpful to use push pins to hold track in place temporarily before installing the track nails. The push pins allow for adjustments before installing the track nails.
Ah, thank you for the responses thus far guys. I’m curious about how you guys get your curves nice and smooth. I have a curve that I plan on splicing a Curved turnout into and was curious about how you guys made your curves.
Thank you again guys.
#24,
I model HO scale but I’m sure the track laying tricks are the same in N scale. As noted before, I always solder rail joints at the workbench before curving the track. Same would be true of a curved turnout that will become part of a curve. Solder flex track sticks to both ends of the turnout (outside route at the diverging end) then lay it all on the center lines that you previously drew to get the correct radii, easements, etc. Once that is nailed/glued down, attach flex track to the inner diverging rail of the turnout, solder that joint, then lay that flex track on the center lines. If it will have rail joints in its curve, solder while straight at the bench.
Incidentally, although I have occasionally cut rail with a motor tool cut off disk, more than 90% of the time I have used Xuron rail nippers. No problems and usually a very clean cut requiring very little “dressing up.” The Xuron instruction for HO rail it to place the cutting jaws on the top and bottom of the rail. If I recall correctly, for N scale the instruction is to cut from the sides of the rail. I’ve never tried side to side so I can’t say how that works. You can run your own test on a scrap of track.
Good luck!
I think everyone is glad to make suggestions.
Here is one more (might have been mentioned already)… Remove any ties that will be under the rail joiners because the bottom of the rail joiners, of course, is lower than the rail bottoms. The ties will push the rail joiners upward. You may later replace the ties if you sanded down the thickness of the ties. .
Skagit I have some spare atlas code 80 which is similar to Peco’s code 55 I’ll test the theory in a bit.
Heartland, how many tie’s would you suggest removing for a rail joiner?
I basically followed Atlas’s old N scale guide for laying my HO flex track - same just bigger track.
I do the curves by just laying most of the curve on the centerline I drew with a trammel (like a giant compass) and leave the last 6-8 inches floating free. Then I curve it around and mark the inner rail with a scratch where it is parallel to the outer rail. Then hold it in in place and cut it with a Dremel or Xuron. I usually take off the last tie so the rail joiners will fit on the end, and then solder the next section using heat sings and flux to make it easier and avoid melting ties. When soldered straight, the rail will not kink and will curve like one long piece of rail, smoothly.