Greetings all,
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Trying to construct a yard ladder with Atlas snap switches, which I believe come out to about a #5. I’ve noticed that the ends that would connect to the actual yard tracks do not line up perfectly parellel to the main, but actually are about 2 degrees too low. And the centers are not 2 inches apart which is what I want. Should I re-consider using Atlas snap switches and maybe go to Custom line #4’s? I have also been thinking about using Shino’s for power routing. And does anyone know of an actual drawing in a book or magazine that shows a yard ladder with proper dimensions and centering distances.
Thanks all
John
Are you talking HO or N? In N scale I had that problem too and changed to snap track which worked out well.
This is for HO. The turnouts are Atlas Snap Switches, which I assume to be snap track. So I can’t change to snap track since I’m already there.
I don’t know, maybe I missed something here. You can make the centers whatever you want by trimming to fit. However, that said, I would use #4s rather than ‘Snap Switches’. You’ll find the alignment much better. The ‘Snap Switch’ is designed to fit an 18 inch radius curve.
Roger
John,
First, if they don’t line up then just scoot them into place. For two degrees or so it won’t hurt anything. I do want to say there is no reason they shouldn’t line up though except for a small fabrication tollerance in the turnout.
Second, I imagine most everyone will recommend that you use Atlas #4s or something; anything but a Snap Switch. I think that well made trackwork would be OK even with Snap Switches as long as you run short equipment and deisel locos but I can’t dispute that almost anything else is better. Incidently, I am sure a Snap Switch is sharper than a number five frog.
Third, arrangements can be used (with Snap Switches) to acheive two inch centers, but again I think #4s are a better solution.
Finally, I don’t know anything about Shino switches, but my hobby store man and I both like Peco switches which are also power routing style turnouts.
Hope this helps. Good Luck - Ed
Atlas #4’s are actually close to 4 1/2, and work fine building ladders. The Snap switch you have is designed to make it easy to add an inside oval to an 18" radius curve using snap track, and not very useful for much else. I think you’d be better off with a #4 than try to make adjustments with the snap switches, and probably get better running and fewer derailments. Those are pretty sharp, sharper than #4, I don’t know what.
That being said, I found out you can build a ladder, of sorts, (using flextrack), with track centers at about 4 1/4", due to the sharpness of the turnout. I’d stick with #4’s. I have no experience with Shinohara nor Peco, so I can’t help you. If you use Tortoise switch machines, they have contacts to route power to the siding and/or powered frog.
Dean
Hey guys
I figured out the problem last night. The main turnout, from the main line that lead to the ladder was a snap switch. The ladder turnouts were #4’s. Thats why the angle was wrong, because of the snap switch at the very top. Once I swapped it out with a proper #4, everything lined up just fine. 2" on center and everything. Did read some information that by placing a 1" piece of track between each turnout, on the straight leg portion, that adds 1/2" of spacing between the tracks.
Thanks guys and happy RR
John in Jax