Model Railroader published an article back in the 70’s on zip texturing, giving the recipes to create various landscape colors. Does anyone have access to those recipes?
Go to the Index of Magazines page of this site, use the search engine with the term “zip texturing,” note the three citations that are returned. Then order reproduced copies from either NMRA Kalmbach Memorial Library or MRR itself.
The information should also be available in Bill MacClanahan’s book “Scenery for Model Railroads” (the revised edition) (if you can still get it) or Dave Frary’s “Realistic Model railroad Scenery”.
If zip texturing is your thing, go for it, but…
Scenery methods introduced since the old Linn Westcott advocacy of zip texturing have surpassed the technique in realism and durability. Even if you followed the directions exactly, zip textured scenery was likely to turn powdery. Subsequent developments, including the introduction of ground foam products and using layers of real dirt and rocks (held in place with diluted glue or matte medium) as base scenery texture over the plaster/foam base create far superior results to anything zip texture can hope to achieve.
I’ve seen several examples of zip texture scenery in person and it doesn’t do much for me. Investigate more up to date methods (and maybe visit a few layouts completed with them) before finishing your scenery.
Zip texturing, which Linn Westcott introduced in the mid 1960s, used dried powdered pigments mixed I think with plaster over wet plaster or wet paint. It did a very good job of creating certain effects and was superior to the then-common method of using sawdust colored green or brown. It may be worth exploring for certain dry effects but for grassy or weedy areas I’d use the new(er) ground foam methods.
Dave Nelson
I echo Rob’s thoughts on zip texturing. It was state of the art at one point, but now has receded into the background. Try out the Woodland Scenic stains for scenery or make your own acrylic washes. Check out Dave Frary’s scenery book, forget the title, but it is very good. The WS video tape - Model Scenery Made Easy - is very good and not cheap, but is a good visual reference as to what to do. WS flogs their products but fortunately they are over all very good products; learn their “leopard spot” technique, it will work very well.
Model Railroader published an article back in the 70’s on zip texturing, giving the recipes to create various landscape colors. Does anyone have access to those recipes?
Go to the Index of Magazines page of this site, use the search engine with the term “zip texturing,” note the three citations that are returned. Then order reproduced copies from either NMRA Kalmbach Memorial Library or MRR itself.
The information should also be available in Bill MacClanahan’s book “Scenery for Model Railroads” (the revised edition) (if you can still get it) or Dave Frary’s “Realistic Model railroad Scenery”.
If zip texturing is your thing, go for it, but…
Scenery methods introduced since the old Linn Westcott advocacy of zip texturing have surpassed the technique in realism and durability. Even if you followed the directions exactly, zip textured scenery was likely to turn powdery. Subsequent developments, including the introduction of ground foam products and using layers of real dirt and rocks (held in place with diluted glue or matte medium) as base scenery texture over the plaster/foam base create far superior results to anything zip texture can hope to achieve.
I’ve seen several examples of zip texture scenery in person and it doesn’t do much for me. Investigate more up to date methods (and maybe visit a few layouts completed with them) before finishing your scenery.
Zip texturing, which Linn Westcott introduced in the mid 1960s, used dried powdered pigments mixed I think with plaster over wet plaster or wet paint. It did a very good job of creating certain effects and was superior to the then-common method of using sawdust colored green or brown. It may be worth exploring for certain dry effects but for grassy or weedy areas I’d use the new(er) ground foam methods.
Dave Nelson
I echo Rob’s thoughts on zip texturing. It was state of the art at one point, but now has receded into the background. Try out the Woodland Scenic stains for scenery or make your own acrylic washes. Check out Dave Frary’s scenery book, forget the title, but it is very good. The WS video tape - Model Scenery Made Easy - is very good and not cheap, but is a good visual reference as to what to do. WS flogs their products but fortunately they are over all very good products; learn their “leopard spot” technique, it will work very well.