Gidday Rich, firstly I’d like to congratulate you on your ambitious first scratch build after all “you may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb”.
Now for my second saying*, “only fools and children criticise half done jobs”* and as my childhood days were half a century ago, I’m afraid that I must fall into the former category.
I know that you are using selective compression and that we are just seeing a mock up but the thing that strikes me the most is about the house, and in my opinion what gives it it’s character and needs to be captured, is its total lack of symmetry, which I don’t see in your mock up, in fact the very opposite applies.
JaBear, that is fair criticism since Michael posted the photo of the actual mansion. Of course, I started this thread to get advice on scratch building procedures, not critique on the actual model, but let me respond to your observations.
When Michael first brought up the discussion of the mansion and the possibilty of incorporating it into his layout and as part of the Coors brewery, it immediately became apparent that nothing like the mansion was available as a kit. And, even trying to kitbash available kits did not seem very satisfactory. So, either Michael should abandon the mansion idea or scratch build it.
I initially encouraged Michael to scratch build it, since he clearly has the talent to do so. But he declined, never having scratch built anything. I am still trying to recall whether I volunteered or Michael volunteered me. LOL. No matter, I have never scratch built anything either.
So, the challenge was to come up with something scratch built that at least suggests a mansion, if not the mansion. Selective compression became paramount based upon space considerations. Symmetry became important because it is easier for a novice scratch builder to work with fewer walls and roofs than more walls and roofs. The actual mansion is clearly not symmetrical, but the scratch build will be.
Good point on the chimney, and that is something that Michael and I have already discussed. The final chimney will be narrower.
As I mentioned when I posted photos of the mock up, it was definitely a crude attempt to simply capture the relative look of the prototype to get some basic dimensions and angles. That’s why I skipped the skylight and the dormer. We are going to take other liberties as well, such as two chimneys rather than one, one skylight rather than two.
This scratch build is more about modeling a mansion than about modeling the mansion.
I think you’re right that the roof slope is troublesome and the slipperiness of the slate makes sliding ice and snow an even bigger problem. Fortunately, a leaky roof doesn’t matter much on a model[:P]
Gee! I hope not…I want You to take the plunge and do it…even if it’s wrong…You’ll learn along the way and You may even learn some New cuss’ words in a new language even…I did…moon’s ago. LOL. [swg]
I don’t think the snow birds what ever you wish to call them have anything to do with leaky roofs I can’t see how they would stop it.
I think they are actualy to keep the snow and ice on the roof there would be quite a few ton’s up there on a very solidly constructed and suported roof.
Slate as you say is slippery and a snow sliding pitch on the roof I think they are for when the roof snow reaches,
One hit one kill levels for snow slabs coming off the roof.
Frank, that is a great recommendation. Picked up bottle of Plastiweld, and it really does a great job. Fast setting, but enough time to adjust and align.
Rich I don’t know if you have ever came across an older gentleman over at AMR , hes passed away now but he use to do scratch building using cereal box cardboard for the wall bases and glue the strip wood on , really came out looking great.
Glad it worked for You Rich…been using it for a long time. If You want super strong joints…lightly sand both mating surfaces and the welding qualities of the adhesive, will be deeper in the mating surfaces.
I still use Ambroid Pro-Weld for some projects…but the plastic weld is stronger. I have even used it on painted surfaces…again lightly sand both mating surfaces, You don’t have to take the paint off…it will still weld into the joint. I air-brush all My buildings/structures before gluing together and it has always worked for Me. I apply the adhesive to the inside edge of the sanded part and capillary action does the rest…so I don’t have adhesive coming out of a corner seam and messing up the paint.
Another tidbit for You, unless You are already using one, is a ‘‘Beam Square’’ for scribing and measuring, along with a Plexi-glass cutter, like Red Devi
I am going to start a new thread to discuss my experience in scratch building the mansion. But, just before I do, I want to thank everybody for their replies.
Notable mention goes to the following three guys whose recommendations really facilitated my first scratch building project.
Ed - 7j43k - His suggestion was to laminate 0.20" siding and roof pieces to 0.40" styrene sheet for stability. That really makes a difference.
Frank - zstripe - Plastruct Plastic Weld, Orange bottle…it contains MEK. That was Frank’s suggestion, and that stuff is awesome for laminating styrene sheets together.
Dave - hon30critter - His suggestion was to buy a nibbler tool to cut out window and door openings. I don’t know how you cut out those openings without such a tool.
