I have never used an airbrush system. Should I consider purchasing an airbrush system for weathering buildings, track, cars, and such or can the same job be done just as easily with a brush? If you do suggest an airbrush system, who do you recommend. The local hobby shop is recommending the Testor’s kit that comes complete with the air station and attachments to start out. I do not want the cheapest system, but not the most expensive either? Thanks!
A good airbrush can be invaluable and will enable you to do very precise work. If you are going to buy one I would sugest you spend the money for a good brush and a small compressor to power it. I’m not up on wht the best airbrushes are now but when I bought mine many moons ago it was Paasche.
Steve
I really like my Paasche double-action airbrush. I also have the Paasche compressor with a line filter. I think the whole setup cost around $150, but I have had it awhile.
For weathering structures and rolling stock, I use several techniques. I start with washes of heavily diluted paints (browns and rusts) and india ink applied with paint brushes. Then some dry brushing followed by chalks/powders. Finally I overspray using the airbrush, using mud colors for the lower portions and sooty colors on the tops.
As for airbrushes, I have been very satisfied with a Badger 350 single action external brush. Very easy to clean.
Good luck!
I use all those to weather. But wouldn’t go a day without an airbrush. In my opinion you don’t have to spend big $$$ on a name brand gun. I spent $80.00 for a complete kit. it included 2 DUEL action Airbrushes (they are better then a single action gun), a nice compressor, and a lot of different items (like extra bottles), ect. Go to Ebay and type in AIRBRUSH CITY. I bought the whole thing as a kit, it included everything I needed to get spraying. They have great kit prices. That airbrush I have painted 50+ quality brass engines & boxcars. Also countless weathering jobs. It is easy to pickup. That was 5 years ago and the brush is still working great. I never even opened the extra airbrush they gave me. If you have any more questions just email me.
Mike
There is more to airbruching than weathering. WIth an airbrush, you can paint a model a lot quicker than with a paintbrush and get an excellent quality paint job. When I discovered sprsy can paints many years ago, I thought I had a huge increase in the quality of paint job over brush painting. When I purchased an airbrush I had the same feeling comparing the airbrush paint quality over the spray can.
I use a Badger #250 air brush with an AirBrush Depot TC-20 compressor
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/compress.aspx
Another important thing is a spray booth to remove fumes and paint particles from your painting area
When I switched over to airbrushing 2 decades ago, it was a big forward leap for me.
These might be helpful, check them out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeZOFhu6FvI
Greetings,
I have a Badger 200 and a Paasche H. Like them both. Both primarily metal. Clean after use and never any trouble. Easy to get replacement parts if you should drop one. The one thing I have not seen addressed for you is the fact you live in Florida. You will have to deal with humidity. On the air outlet from your compressor I would like to suggest a regulator moisture trap combination. Then an inline moisture trap about halfway down the line to the airbrush.
Bob
Scott,
You and I live in the same area. Check your PM box.
I’ve used the cheapest Badger airbrush you can buy and I have gotten some really nice wheathering on my rolling stock. I just picked up an Iwata HP-BCS and It’s perfect for detail work. It’s easy to clean and easy to change colors which is what sold me on it. You can’t get by without one. Get a cheap one and play with it. Ebay is a great place to shop. The biggest thing I had trouble with was the air supply. I had a cheap Harbor Freight compressor and it couldn’t keep the pressure at 35 psi. Once I changed that everything worked great!
I’ve got the Testor’s one that the OP was talking about, and it does a good job, I’ve airbrushed several aircraft models with it (what I modelled while I was out of the MRR scene) and i’ve always liked it, sure just having the spray cans of air to use is a little inconvenient (sp?), but I’ve also got a “real” airbrush too that I use in the shop along with my big spray guns. I haven’t done any weathering with the airbrush to my rolling stock, but I do believe in using it to paint stuff.
As a comparison between brushing painting and airbrushing, I’d go with airbrushing simply because I have to use less coats to get a good, smooth, consistent job. Another thing is that with the airbrush I can feather out weathering features from high to low and ect.
Airbrushing has a whole lot more qualities than does brush painting. I would recommend one for weathering and for large painted areas (like track, a locomotive, etc). For very small jobs I like a brush because it is easier to set up and to clean out. When you properly clean out an airbrush, it takes longer than dipping a brush in some thinner and calling it quits. The results are what make the airbrush worth the $$.
I would not recommend an airbrush that is external mix. I’ve used the internal mix from Paasche and it works very well. I’m not sure about the Testors one, but most certainly you’ll get what you pay for.
I don’t vs air and brush, depends on the application your doing. Air brush your paint surface will be even and you can apply the paint to just cover and not fudge up details. I used the air cans but they get cold when you use them and that freezes the paint when your trying to spray. Always use a compressor.
An airbrush is definitely a big help in any kind of modeling. Generally, more expensive airbrushes give you more control and may provide better results. On the other hand, “better” airbrushes are also harder to use. When I first got an airbrush (a Badger 350) it was simple and I got great results, it was a huge step up. Later, when I got a dual-action internal mix airbrush, I was initially frustrated because it was harder to control. The results are somewhat better than the Badger, and it can do some things the Badger can’t. But I would say that the difference between a cheap airbrush and an expensive airbrush is far, far smaller than the difference between a paintbrush and a cheap airbrush.
I have a couple of other airbrushes now, and I use them when I need them - but the cheap Badger gets far and away the most use. You’ll eventually want a good airbrush, but I recommend a cheap and easy one for a first airbrush.
(I agree with other posters about a compressor, though – propellant cans are nothing but frustration.)
I tried one of the Testors starter kits that had the compressor & brush & did not like it. Like someone else mentioned, try Air Brush City, very fast shipping ,& reasonable.
Count me among the airbrushed challenged. I’ve come to find out I am not alone. I’ve had two Badgers and one Paasche and have never had much success with them. Obviously, there is something I am not doing right but I don’t know what it might be. I see there is a how-to book on airbrushing and I might get that and take one more crack at airbrushing. It would be a handy skill to add to the tool box but so far, I have managed to get along without it.
I brush paint my structures and I like the fact that it gives a little bit of an uneven finish. I think this is especially useful on brick structures since brick rarely comes in uniform colors. Each batch of bricks will normally be slightly different. I spray the walls first with aerosol primer before brush painting. Then I use different mixes of cheap artist acryllics to give each structure a slightly different shade of brick red. I’ve been happy with the results.
As for weathering, I prefer using weathering powders and also various washes. Alcohol and India ink is a good all purpose weathering agent. I’ll also use watered down acryllics if I want something other than a black wash.
Air brushing has its advantages…especially for painting equipment. I would never, ever take a brush to a scratch built model except for some small details.
Canned air does work, but compressors are less frustrating and typically give better results.
I have a Paasche H (single action) and a Paasche VL (double action…controls both air and paint separately). I love both of them, especially the VL. I’ve heard of some experienced modelers whom prefer single action brushes. They downside to airbrushes is that the cleanup takes a little bit longer than a brush.
Traditionally, Paasche and Badger make quality brushes. There is also a competitor whom hasn’t been mentioned in this thread…but they are really expensive. I bought Paasche as they have the best reputation of the normal manufacturers and my local art store carried it…Badger & Aztec are just fine as well. I doubt the others are on par (they are precision devices).
One thing you need to think about is what kind of paint you’re going to use. Water based acrylics are generally thicker than solvent based paints. My experience is that the finer spray airbrushes like the internal mixers have trouble with acrylic paints clotting up the works and It doesn’t seem to matter how much you thin them. When you get a Paasche H series external mixer they give you two sets of nozzles and needles, one for acrylics and one for solvent based paints. The acrylic fittings are bigger and have a larger nozzle opening. I prefer the solvent based paints and sometimes, when I want to cover large areas or coat a complex surface like a steam engine’s boiler, I use the acrylic fittings with the solvent paints. You get fast results that way but you’ve got to watch for runs! After the base coat is done, touch-up and picking out details can be done with a brush.
nkp, I’ll guess you’re thinking of Iwata. I’ve been thinking about getting one of their brushes. But it’s not clear to me how much better they really are.
I have been using an airbrush for custom painting cars and motorcycles for over 30 years. I have some that cost in excess of $400 and some as inexpensive as $50. My suggestion to you is this. Yes most definitely buy yourself an airbrush but don’t buy the Testors kit they are trying to sell you. The Aztec is ok but not great and the other one’s they offer are nothing more then glorified spray cans in my o/p. You want a dual action airbrush, as it will afford you much more control. When you get proficient at using it you can paint a line as thin as one drawn with a pencil. With practice that won’t take you all that long either. I do all my structure, rolling stock, and locomotive-weathering employing several methods one of which is my airbrush. and I use all water-based paints as well. If you make a mistake (which you will) you simply wash it off with fresh water before it cures and your good to go. The best thing you can do is go to your local Michael’s craft store or AC Moore and check out their stock of airbrushes. Sign up for their mailing list and check their website out regularly. They very often offer 50% off coupons of non-sale items. I picked up a Badger 150 two-stage airbrush kit for $50.00. When I showed the manager that the catch on the box was broken she took off another 20%.
As far as a compressor for that airbrush go buy yourself a small nail gun air compressor, most of them have two things you will need a storage tank and an adjustable regulator. One last thing you defiantly should look for is a good how to video on air brushing. Testors has one that isn’t too bad either that or take an art class at your local night school.