I’m having a heck of a time applying decals to my cars. I’ve tried several reccomendations I found in MR. But they still look sloppy, or won’t adhere to the car kit I built. So I’m looking for suggestions on how to apply them. And if they don’t stick, how to reapply them.
Thanks in advance,
Spencer
Spencer,
Decals look best and adhere best when applied to a glossy surface. Try applying a coat of Future floor wax or clear glossy paint to the area where you want to place the decal. When all your decals are in place, spray or bru***he whole car with a clear flat paint. If you want to weather your cars with pastel powders, they will stick better to a flat finish.
It’s been a long time since I’ve done water decals. I think most have some kind of sticky substance on them, which comes off if you over soak them, so you want to make sure that you don’t do that. Don’s advice is all right on, but he left out the decal setting solution. Products like Micro Sol or Solv A Set help disolve the film once you have it in position.
This step makes the decals conform to the contours of the surface. Once you apply one of these products you can’t touch the decal again until it is completely dry, or it will smear. If you still have any air bubbles under the decals, poke them with a sharp Xacto or pin and put on a drop of the setting solution.
Now your decals should look like they are part of the paint, with very little ridge along the edges. Now a shot of dulling spray, and people will think you painted the lettering, even if they look close.[swg]
Big Boy and Don are both right, gloss is a must before you apply the decals, then seal the decals in with flat or semi-gloss varnish. Decalling can be a great fun part of the hobby for me - but sometimes it can be really frustrating getting it right. Don’t be afraid to start over if it all goes wrong as sometime poking around wih a X-acto blade to get the air out causes problems.
Just a word of warning different makes of decal film can need different softening solutions, sometimes an aggressive softening solution and a very thin decal film will end in disaster. On the other hand some decal films are very very thick and take loads of softening. Some of these really thick films won’t disolve into the paint completely and will leave a raised edge or shiny sheen no matter how hard you try. If I get this problem I either: give the model another coat of gloss and try again, look for a different makers decals - or if there isn’t anyone else who makes the decal I cut the film as close to the printing as I dare then weather my way out of the problem.[swg]
BigBoy - what make of decal / softner did you have problems with the print smearing? I’ve used quite a few different makes of decal and I’ve never had this problem although I’ve had both decal film and printing disintergate into tiny pieces.
I’ve always thought that Solv A Set was the stronger solution. I never really had a problem, except I think I tried to adjust one and found out the hard way. Once applied care must be taken, because the film is actually MELTING. When dry the decals are part of the paint. So just make sure you have them exactly wehre you want them, and don’t bump em when they’re wet.[8D]
Applying decals is just like any other skill. It takes a bit of time, care, experience, practice and patience. And just like any other skill, if you don’t practice, accept a few mistakes, and the activity scares the bejeebers out of you, you won’t get anywhere with them.
I apply decals all the time, and am in fact going to be decalling several pieces of rolling stock this weekend. This is what works for me:
apply a gloss fini***o the model. I generally use Polly Scale paints, so I use a clear gloss coating after the paint is COMPLETELY dry (generally, a week to be safe). I’ve used all sorts of stuff for this, but I like Testors Glosscoat and Krylon gloss coat the best. Add a light, even coat, and let dry for at least 2 days in a dust-free environment (some sort of plastic box with a lid is best)
gather up your tools. I use a metal straightedge, an Xacto knife and plenty of #11 blades, water, decal setting solution (more on that later), a good #0 paintbrush or two, a glass cutting board, reverse-action tweezers (the kind that OPEN when you squeeze them)and lots of paper napkins.
Add the decals. This is one of the easier steps, but it requires a few tricks. I use room temperature distilled water to soak decals in (tapwater might discolor the decals). Cut out the decal with a sharp knife (Xacto #11 blade), keeping as close to the lettering as possible. Use a straightedge if necessary, and replace the blade if it tears through the decal paper instead of cutting cleanly (you don’t want jagged edges).
Plop the decal in the water (I use a small glass dish), and let it sit in the water for one minute, or until the decal uncurls, or until the decal floats away from the backing paper. You DO NOT want the decal glue to remain on the decal! (it’ll leave a white, hazy film under the decal which will NOT go away)
Once the decal is floating around, carefully float the decal back onto the backing paper (with the brush), and grab
Now there’s a man with a plan!!! I didn’t know that part about the glue leaving a haze. Thanks Ray.
I agree about the distilled water - I boil the kettle, let it cool, then use some of the boiled water - have had no problems with “watermarks” ever since, and it’s cheaper than buying distilled water.
The use of a gloss paint makes it so you can usually skip the clear gloss coat under the decals, but still use a dull or semi-gloss finnish over the top. I prefer testors dullcoat, but what ever you want is fine. I have had some problems with Krylon clear coat, but other people have not, so I’d test it if you’re going to used that. on the inside of the car ro some thing.
Noah
A few simples steps:
Be careful, because using the boiled water from the kettle is not anything close to distilled water. If it works for you that’s what counts.
For distilled water, collect the steam from the kettle and let it condense back to liquid. THAT’S DISTILLED WATER!!!. That’s also why it’s expensive. The energy used to make it.
The stuff in the kettle may not have bacteria, but any mineral content that occurs naturally in the tap water will now be concentrated! The pure water was boiled off into the air. It sounds like your tap water is just fine, and the kettle may not even be necessary.
Just a note to say THANKS to all that answered. I got a lot of good ideas. I really appreciate the help!!
Spencer
If you have a de-humidifier, the water that is condenses out of the air is distilled water, without the mineral content of condensed steam from your kettle. The wter should be emtied daily from the basin to prevent mold and bacteria growth. On or two humid days should allow you to fill a onegallon, fully washed milk jug.
I didn’t know that about the De humidifier water, I’ll have to try that some time. Thanks for the tip.
Noah
All equipment that I lettered I use DEFT to seal the decals. One quick spray and the decal melts into cracks, over rivets etc. I stumbled into this many years ago and was impressed with the results. It can be purchased at most hardwar stores and walmart. You would want the semi gloss finish. It works on many other things as well.
What exactly is DEFT?
dlm
Deft is a spray sealer. I used it years ago to see what would happen and was shocked to see the out come. It looked like a factory lettering. After that I used it on everything I decaled. Place the decals where you want them, tap with paper towel to absorb the water from soaking the decals and spray a thin coat. After that you can weather then or do what ever you wish. Try it on an old freight car if your concerned. You will be happy with then end results.
Gonna go look for some deft! Hopefully I can get the same results as wmlurgan. If not, I’ll keep looking. That’s what is soooooo coooool about this hobby. Many possible solutions to any given problem. Find the one that works for you and have at it!!
This is truly a great thread! I spray the surface where decals will go with Gloss-Coat, I use dehumidifier water also. However, I soak the decals in water for only 10-15 seconds. Then I lay them on a water soaked shop towel for as long as it takes for the decal to loosen from the backing paper. When applying, I place a pool of Micro-set where the decal will go. Once the decal is positioned, I dab off excess Micro-set and leave alone tell dry. If further softening is needed, I apply Micro-sol as many times as needed to get the decal flat, When completely dry after a day or so, I spray Dull-coat
All great tips for decals, like that 3M fine line tape trick. One thing to remember about Microscale decals is that most of the larger heralds/ side lettering etc. the decal film tapers off . Avoid cutting the film when trimming. I believe this is mentioned in their instructions.
I’ll have to give the Deft thing a try- Only thing is, if decal doesn’t snuggle down as you like, is it already sealed and added coats will not work to soften again.
Great thread,
Bob K.