Here is a link to ebay for the 44 ton model. Notice Buy it now is $34. I got mine on a open bid for #22.50 plus $8.00 for shipping. Maybe he has a Lot of defective models. [:)]
Rich
Here is a link to ebay for the 44 ton model. Notice Buy it now is $34. I got mine on a open bid for #22.50 plus $8.00 for shipping. Maybe he has a Lot of defective models. [:)]
Rich
Here is my Pennsy 44 tonner:
I bougt it of ebay for 33$, IIRC. I like it, it’s a fine little switcher. Very good low speed, smooth running. I plan to hard wire some small decoder and convert it to DCC.
Also, do not expect much pulling on grades. On approx. 3% grade, one car is to much, it barely moves itself.
LOVE mine…here is the pic… she runs REAL nice and slow. I put an N scale NCE decoder in and she runs REAL slow.
Still haven’t weathered her…working on figuring out if I want her to be the brewery switcher, a small shunter for the yard or something else…
Brian
P.S. Oh, and I think this is one of the bachman spectrum’s you have to snip a capacitor in the board if you go dcc from it…
No problems with mine, I have the older 2 motor. Just keep it clean & try not to pull way to many cars!
I have purchased many locos from “The Favorite Spot”. Watch their auctions. They often have 4 or 5 coming up within a day or so. You might be able to get a deal. Also, because they are an actual retailer with an actual store, and a Bachmann dealer, the warranty is in effect on all their sales.
I got my Spectrum 44 tonner from another Ebay seller however.
Mine started cooking after a few minutes on the track. Bachmann replaced it with a brand new one for the price of postage, even though it was used, I had no paperwork, and it had been “smoked”.
Last week I put in a Z123. My problem is that it stalls on my Atlas Code 83 snap switches…because the loco pickup wheels are such a short distance apart, probably. That is a problem of the switch rather than the loco, however.
Snip the two yellow capacitors. I usually replace the two inductors with a piece of solid wire on the PC board with Spectrum models. Just my way.
Rich
I bought 3 for use under the Box Cabs from the old MDC series. Here’s a rough group of pictures of the process I’m using, thanks to a tip from Geared Steam.
Here’s a trial fit.
Cutaway plastic body.
New front steps from original MDC version.
Will take some better pictures when I do the other end for the steps.
I bought mine from the Favorite Stop.
Do have a question for those that do have a 44. The second one for some reason seems to have a truck rubbing on the under tank. Haven’t had a chance to really see where or why but it does jump the tracks because of this. Is this common?
Cool Fred !!
As far as the truck rubbing, no that is not normal in my experience.
A rough video of my MDC creeping up a 3% grade pulling 3 MDC wood chip cars. It has no problems on this grade.
Very nice Geared Steam. I just hate the thought of cutting up a nice 44 ton shell. I am going to figure out a different way to install the MDC Climax shell. I have a lot of stuff in the junk box. I do not think I will have room to install sound like I did with a MDC Climax. Right now there does not look like enough room for a Micro-Tsunami and speaker.
Rich
Rich
Yea it is tight inside of the shell, barely room for the decoder, but if anyone can do it, you can. BTW I just picked up another 44 ton from The Favorite Spot off EBAY for $19.64 plus 8.00 frt !! [:D] Now I need another MDC shell.
As far as cutting up the shell, it was the easiest (not necessarily the best) method for me, It will still use the factory screws to fasten the shell to the chassis, the couplers won’t have to be scratched and if you are careful, the engineer lines up perfectly with the MDC Climax window. (some 44’s may not have a engy, the New Haven model I purchased did).
Have Fun
GS
Geared steam, thanks for the compliment.
I decided to finish off the rear steps. Took about an hour or so.
Original side steps.
Original front steps. Note gap at cab.
Fitting new step. Fits in gap.
Filler strip between step and cab.
Trial run. Note I wiped off some excess with my weathering brush. Doesn’t look too bad.
This has been the most fun for a few bucks on changing out a loco to be something different. I’m still running DC so I don’t know if all the sound and decoder will fit in the left over space. Any ideas for headlight?
I’ll akso check to see what’s rubbing on the second loco.
WOW
Good job Fred, the decoder shouldn’t be a problem, you have more room in that boxcab. The light(s) can be moved from their “cradle” to point front and rear, I haven’t experimented with doing so but I don’t see it being much of a problem. Another thing I need to do, and maybe you should consider, is to put some glazing in the windows so you can’t see inside, its resembles dusty, dirty windows.
Looks great post more pics when you have a chance.
GS
Thanks for all of the replies!
richg1998,
How are the trucks attached to the frame? From the blow it looks, like it is just “set” in, and there are no attachments. What is the measurement of the height of the gear tower from the track head to the top of the geartower. I ask because I am trying to figure out if I can modify the frame and trucks for a GE 40 tonners.
Just bought the yellow undecorated one from Klein!
Download and look at the parts diagram photo I posted earlier. It look like the trucks “snap in place”.
The distance from the rail top to the top of the geartower is a 0.760 inches.
Rich
Here’s a picture of mine. However, I can’t seem to remember how much I paid for it at my LHS. The model was a real find. Although it is one of the older runs, it came painted in the CPR scheme. I did have fun trying to get a decoder to fit in it though. Smooth runner, only problem I have had is with peeling paint on the hand rails. Other than that it is a very reliable model.
Since my last posting about the 44 tonner, I went out and bought one from an internet seller, who was, by the way, recommended on this forum as a trusting seller who also has a store front. Long story short, I recieved one 44 tonner in the mail and it was broken, sent it back, got another one and it was broken too, then got my money refunded. I mentioned this to my friends at my club and they said that this retailer has a history of selling factory seconds! No wonder the price was about half of what Walthers is asking!
Hansel
Thats unfortunate Hansel, Assuming your talking about who I recommended, I’ve purchased 4 locos from him in the last year. All were recieved in factory sealed boxes, and none had any problems at all. (just got one a couple weeks ago)
As far as “factory seconds” all his listings I bid on are “brand new” and I have never had a reason to doubt it. In addition his Ebay store states clearly “All products in stock and are sold brand new”
It is not unusual to buy a new loco that is defective, thats why there is a warranty.
MHO
Mine is an early porduction, 2-motor engine. I purchased it on Ebay. It was used and was originally a Rio Grande model. As you can see, I repainted it for the Burlington which had a few of them and assigned some to light branch line service. I had just complete my new branch line.
I’m happy with my choice. It has more than enough power for the short trains on my branch line.
The opposite side of the engine does not have the center window post so you can view the engineer figure inside.