I have one of these (DCC Equiped) and until recently it ran OK not great but adequate. Recently it started making noises like the motor is trying to run but the wheels are not turning. I am thinking that perhaps a loose piece of ballast got in there, as I only ballasted my track 2 weeks ago or so. Any sugestions as to the best way to get it apart for cleaning?
Also if I get it running I would like to change the decorder. Anyone ever done this and if so what did you use?
I, too recently obtained used HO 44 ton. Haven’t test run yet [ no track laid yet on my l/o ]. I know there was early gear cracking problem and your loco might possibly have that. Others can help you on pulling shell & checking unit, as I’ve never taken mine apart. TTFN…papaHOsmurf
I just dismantled, cleaned and re-lubed my DC equipped 44T. Three out of 4 drive gears were cracked with the axles just spinning and not turning the gears. Not sure if this is your problem; however, it sounds as if it could be. I just put a spot of 5-minute epoxy on the axle, reinserted them into the gears and then checked the gauge with the NMRA Gauge Tool before the epoxy set. The locomotive has been running fine for about an hour now.
Wayne
NWSL makes replacement gears for these loco’s. I strongly suggest they be used. I have two steeplecabs that use the guts of the 44 tonner and after replacing the gears they don’t seem to have nearly the running issues. It could also be that I have been paying a lot more attention to the trucks and they have never been cleaner.
A couple years ago I picked up a two motor 44 ton for a few dollars and installed a DZ125 decoder. Some months later it cracked a gear. Those have motor issues also. Usually a brush hangs up but can be fixed easily. As the brush wears, it does hang up again. I knew if I sent it in to Bachmann, I would get a single motor which got a LokSound Micro. I have two 44 single motor 44 tonners with sound. Great locos.
Very easy to open up. Two screws.
Rich
Thanks everyone for your replies. I pulled the shell off last night. The motor is indeed turning but the worm gears are not moving. They seem to have split off from the shaft. I also saw that one of the motor leads has broken off. Since this is not a very expensive engine I’m going to try the 5 min epoxy repair. and if that doesn’t work I think I’ll just retire it to my display case. If the repair works I’ll solder the broken lead back on and close it up. If nothing else its a learning experience.
After much thought this isn’t worth too much more of my time. I have a 70 tonner and an 0-6-0 that will make up the difference until I decide on a replacement, if any.
Joe,
I’m surprised that the motor would still function with one of the leads missing. These leads are attached to the printed circuit board with small black clip on devices. The + and - leads are side by side adjacent to the two capacitors on the board (C1 and C2). The attached photograph shows this printed circuit board. Of course, the lead that you mention may be to one of the two lights and not the motor.
My 5-minute epoxy fix has worked very well so far; however, the ideal method would be to use replacement gears from Northwest Short Lines. But like you, this is not one of my favorite locomotives and I elected for the quick fix for now.
Good Luck,
Wayne
the lead I was refering to was a red pick up lead disconnected at the truck end not the other end Since both trucks are conductive the motor still works. I agree the NWSL fix would be ideal just not worth the cost and hassle for me. This loco only pulls one or two cars when healthy while the 70 ton pulls more cars reliably. and serves my RR well.
This is the first and 44T i buy.
I meant first and last
Joe,
I agree and my main issue with this locomotive is the coffee grinder sound it makes. After a major cleaning and re-lubrication it does sound better but it is by far my noisiest locomotive and is just too distracting to operate on a regular basis. Its main function is to pull my home made track cleaning car around the layout.
Wayne
Home made Track Cleaning car sounds interesting care to post a pic?
Give me a second and I’ll take a photo for you. It is really very simple and based upon the design by John Allen used on his Gorre and Daphetid railroad . I visited the Cass Scenic Railroad in Cass, West Virginia and purchased a Cass Box Car that is used for the cleaning car.
This might take more than a second…[swg]
Wayne
Joe,
Here are three photos showing my home built track cleaning car. The idea came from John Allen and it does work quite well. Basically, I have a rectangular piece of masonite with 2 nails held in place with epoxy and a lead weight placed between the nails. The nails go into the bottom of a box car and can be run on the track with only using the masonite pad or with a cloth soaked with a cleaning solution such as isopropyl alcohol.
Hope this helps,
Wayne
Wayne:
Thanks
One of my locomotives is a Keystone Locomotive Works GE44-ton. The thing runs like a bear! It is so quiet and pulls so good, I can’t believe the price I paid. I have another one, by Spectrum. THis I haven’t run yet. They will do duty in the carfloat yard. I think a really practical aproach is to have the yard as DC; with a section of lead track on a DPDT switch, and the storage track also switchable.
I also have the NWSL guts for that little Keystone HOn3 shay, as well as the Keystone shell itself. I’ve never taken either out of the box! These are fascinating little jewels.
The reason that Keystone 44 Tonner runs so well is the NWSL chassis, which they made specifically for Keystone. They really should offer that chassis as a repower option for the Bachmann model, since so many of them have problematic power trucks (it took 2 Bachmann trucks to finish my Mack switcher project!).
The Keystone Shay sure is difficult, but it makes such a nice engine when it’s done! I don’t know if you saw mine from a while back or not, but my topic might be helpful when you get around to building yours.