A shop in VT has been closed for 2-3 years and is now selling out, I bought the railking Norfolk & Western 484 J pass. set with loco sound, two real-trax switches, and eight extra tracks for $140[:D][wow] Three questions, #1 this engine has loco-sounds and has sat for years, do I have to charge a battery before running? Theres nothing in the owners manual about it. #2 I plan on having a two table layout connected by bridges, one tinplate and one highrail and running from one to the other. since this set has real-trax should I go with it? How do you like real-trax? #3 Will prewar run on real-trax switches? Thanks for any help.
Denny, I would try charging it if you haven’t already. Try to see if it says PS-1 or PS-2 on the box or in the instructions somewhere. If it’s PS-2, the newer stuff, you should be able to just set it on the track in neautral with the transformer on, up near full voltage & it should charge . I do that with my PS-2 steamer all the time to keep it charged. It may need several hrs. on charge. I hope it’s not PS-1 . Then you would need to change that out with what they call a BEC, I think, & that’s if the chip isn’t already scrambled.
Let us know exactly what you have if you can ! Any numbers on the box, to ! Even the nimber on the eng. would help.
Thanks, John
Denny,
Is it loco sounds or Proto Sounds? There is a big differance between the two, Proto Sounds uses a battery inside the diesel engine or steam tender, not sure about loco sound. You can buy a separate battery charger sold by MTH for this purpose.
Can’t say for certain about Real Trax but have heard some bad stories from my local hobby shop about Real Trax and Fastrac being geared for a permanent layout, basically the more you take apart Real Trax or Fastrac the more chance to break off the plastic tabs on the ends. Also heard that Real Trax takes some effort to put the track together. At least with tubular track you can re-crimp the ends and have very little trouble after that.
About pre-war running on Real Trax you will just have to go by trial & error method, however I think that some of the pre-war locomotives have rather deep wheel flanges and may derail at the Real Trax switches.
Lee F.
It is for sure loco-sounds, not ps1 or ps2. All three are listed in the catalog as different systems. The set number is30-4036-0 and the engine is #612. The catalog in the box is dated 2000.
Sounds like you made out like a bandit on that set. I wouldn’t even hesitate on the battery thing; go pick up an 8.4 Nimh rechargeable from Radio Shack.
Locosound doesnt have a battery. When you cut power to the track the sounds stop.
The Realtrax is a nice track system. I use it on my layout, thats been up for several years now, with no problems.
This thing came with a 75 watt power supply, and the railking wireless remote, the long narrow one with 4 buttons and rocker throttle. It’s a super starter set, with sounds, bell and whistle. The price on the box was $229! The switches were marked $39.99 each. I’d would have paid the full price for as much as you get with it, but got it for less than half and she threw in some toys for my grandson[:)] I think I’ll set it on the track to charge, don’t want to take a chance hurting it
You got a great deal, enjoy.
laz57
Just to emphasize what has already been said but not acknowledged - locosounds engines do not have a battery.
They do have speed control which makes them perfect for the conventional operator who likes nice slow speeds.
Jim
Set up a loop and ran it Sunday with my grandson. We both love the sounds, great smoke, very nice detail on the engine and cars for a starter set. The paint is very well done. Don’t really care for the realtrax, hard to assemble but dosen’t stay together, it may grow on me. MTH instructions [censored] not well written, not complete, took me quite some time to figure out a issue with the switches I got. All in all I would recomend buying it even at list price athoug a starter set should have better instructions
MTH sells little plastic clips to hold the track together. They are not too expensive and work very well…except when you break them trying to separate two pieces of track before removing the clip.
Jim H