Here is one of my past layouts before we moved to where we live now. I will post up pics of this years Lionel set up as soon as i get it up and running. Mike
I have to admit, of the 3 layouts I do at Christmas, this one is the most fun to build and operate.
The gateman pops in and out, the beacon goes round and round, the milkman does his thing on a dedicated track, signals flash, the banjo wig-wags, whistles, horns, smoke, choo-choo sounds and the endless droning of an oil pump working away at the rear of the layout really gets my blood flowing! [:D]
One of my favorite sections of the layout features one of my favorite Plasticville structures: the Turnpike interchange. This is a modern issue version as is the motel acting as the motor lodge component of my Howard Johnson’s complex. The HOJO’s started life as a damaged 1960’s issue Plasticville schoolhouse.
I drew up the fence pattern on a paintbrush program and then printed it on green cardstock. I also try to do that with windows wherever I can. Walls and roofs are easy enough to draw by hand but when it comes to redundant parts you can’t beat computer made.
Generally speaking, the standard gauge buildings average around 95% made from 65lb cardstock. Most have foamcore bases and some have corrugated cardboard backing for the walls. But other than light fixtures (many of which I made myself out of things you wouldn’t expect to see a light fixture made out of) flag poles, flowers, or metal details, it’s all cardstock.
Building my annual layout for my fire dept. Where Becky is using Plasticville, I’ll be using Lemax. I’ll be adding some more animation to the layout this year. In the past, I’ve adorned it with my MTH House on Fire, but I’m trying to keep it simpler. Usually, it has to be dismantled just after the parade and Santa visit, but my job would like to display it for the holidays, so we’ll see. Pictures forthcoming…
Due to multiple tip overs perpetrated by our feline bad actors, this year it’s G gauge and the old standby, a simple circle around the tree…no mega elaborate temptations. My back from bending over to put the trains back on the track several times a day, nixed any inspired ideas I had, which is fine inasmuch disassembly should be a cinch.
Roger that. I made a station base for my double stop station that I just finished painting & I can’t find any commercially made railing that looks nice around it. Yours is excellent, but I’d like something in either metal, plastic, or resin so it’s more durable. My stuff gets unpacked & packed up a lot & I’m affraid paper won’t hold up to the process.
[quote user=“Penny Trains”]
I drew up the fence pattern on a paintbrush program and then printed it on green cardstock. I also try to do that with windows wherever I can. Walls and roofs are easy enough to draw by hand but when it comes to redundant parts you can’t beat computer made.
Generally speaking, the standard gauge buildings average around 95% made from 65lb cardstock. Most have foamcore bases and some have corrugated cardboard backing for the walls. But other than light fixtures (many of which I made myself out of things you wouldn’t expect to see a light fixture made out of) flag poles, flowers, or metal details, it’s all cardstock.
That’s the real secret now isn’t it? [;)] That paper models don’t last? But that’s also one of the biggest benefits in my book. It gives me the chance to do everything over and since I’ve learned new and better ways of doing things each time, the replacements always look better.
If I could get it to work, I would print on styrene sheets. So far I haven’t found an inkjet that could handle the job.
BUT, there are inkjet transparencies. If you built a model in a 3D rendering program like Metasequoia or Blender, then unfolded the model parts using Pepakura and printed them on transparencies, you could spray paint the parts after they’re cut out and get much closer to the look of painted steel.
Ok, understood. I like doing things once, & moving on to something else. I’ve poked around hobby shops, craft stores, & train shows but they either have plastic picket style fencing for a house, wrot iron style for a church, or if you get into the nicer resin or brass stuff- they have what I want, but it’s $10 - $12 for a 6" or 8" section & that’s just going to be crazy stupid money for the amount I need to go all the way around that building so right now I’ve got nothing. If I bought that stuff I’d be upwards of $60 for a fence & that’s not realistic for me.
Speaking of paper models and how they don’t last very long, here’s a list of what’s new, what’s been rebuilt, repaired or enhanced in my soon to be unveiled 2014 Disneyland layout.
Frontierland:
Fort Wilderness, formerly a paper model, was torn down and replaced with a wood, bamboo and cardstock version.
The Mark Twain sternwheeler was replaced with a reinforced model. Lighting added.
A dock was built for the Mark Twain along the Rivers of America.
A “land entrance” arch was constructed.
The Golden Horshoe/Mile Long Bar building was modified.
Frontierland Station was rebuilt.
Country Bear Jamboree has moved to the new Bear Country section.
Big Thunder Mountain Railroad enhanced with new trackwork, added scenery and station platform area rebuilt.
New Orleans Square:
Area added.
Aunt Jemima’s Kitchen added.
Don DeFore’s Silver Banjo BBQ added.
Bear Country:
Section was created as space opened up due to modifications to Tom Sawyer Island module in Frontierland.
Teddi Barra’s Swingin Arcade added.
Country Bear Jamboree enhanced.
Adventureland:
Jungle Cruise augmented with more animals and a much denser jungle.
Temple of the Forbidden Eye repaired.
Swiss Family Robinson Treehouse repaired and enhanced.
Fantasyland:
Wicked Wench lowered to ground level. Previously the ship was 3 inches off the ground on a hill because of the hull sticking through below water level. (I didn’t want to remove the hull below the waterline because I was afraid it would compromise hull integrity.)