I have a couple of 89’ auto carrier cars which have a tendancy to de-couple when the cars transitions from a 2% grade incline to the level section of track.
The answer to my problem would be coupler knuckles that are slightly deeper than the standard to allow for the change in height, I’ve searched but can’t seem to find any.
Anyone know where I can get such HO Scale couplers?
Thanks for any help
Scouser,
If you mean longer shanks then Kadee sells them. However, I’m thinking that will only exacerbate the issue.
Is your transition from grade to level perhaps the real problem because the transition isn’t gradual enough? Also, what couplers are you currently using with your auto carriers?
Tom
Hi,
You could try the Kadee shelf couplers.
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page118.htm
You might have to run the cars as a group since the couplers work best when paired with each-other, meaning, you would need one on the last car before the auto racks and another at the opposite end but it should cure your separation problem. Essentially, you would make two “transition cars” that would have the tightlock coupler on one end and a regular Kadee on the other. Of course, these would have to run at the head and tail of your cut of autoracks.
The 118s are similar to the Tightlock type “F” coupler found on passenger cars.
The #119 shelf coupler is geared more toward the tank car style to prevent overriding but they will “lock” together in a similar fashion.
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page119.htm
I use a pair of #118s on my long-based Baldwin Centipedes and they definitely stay coupled under any kind of vertical transition.
Of course, the best cure is to make the transition from flat to grade a little easier.
Hope that helps, Ed
I’ve got access to most of the KDs and there are none that I know of. But their might be other brands that have a deeper (taller) base.
Your problem is likely more the result of too little a transition from flat to 2 percent grade. If you could lengthen the transition, it would eliminate the problem.
Thanks Ed,
I’ll take a look at those, the issue is definately to sharp a transition but I don’t really want to tear down all the lanscaping on that section to correct it. I know I probably should [:D]
Ed’s right on the money! I’ve been using the SE version Shelf Couplers for several years and they never uncouple. I went with the SE #119 because they’re closer to scale. I started out with the Standard SF #118 which is slightly larger, they work very good between locomotives and close coupled the size isn’t noticeable . . . A-B-B type. The SE & SF are compatible with all Kadees.
Warning the shelf couplers are a buggar to uncouple manually, the Kadee magnet between the rails works very good.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blog
However if the transition is too abrupt, the only thing a shelf coupler is going to do is lift one of the cars off the track inbstead of the knuckles slipping past one another.
–Randy
Good point, I never thought of that [:P]
I think I may get away with it though as the difference is very slight, probably 1mm at most. The cars de-couple approx 2 out 5 times they cross the transition so the lift ‘may’ be ok.
I’ll give it a try and let you know,
thanks everyone.
One thing I didn’t mention is that the shelf couplers must be mounted at the same level or they won’t work together.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I never considered shelf couplers as a solution to this problem.
.
Great tip. If I have this problem in the future I might give this a try.
.
-Kevin
.
I don’t know if this will work for you. But couplers in S are deeper and might work for you - of course they will look too big. I don’t know how well they will couple/uncouple from HO couplers.
You could also try mounting the trucks closer to the end.
Good luck
Paul
Your vertical curve is too sharp.
Bite the bullet and correct it. It will never be right otherwise.
Yes, You should. Fix the transition first.
Mike.
I like the kadee #119 on my open bi (loaded) and tri (mostly empty) Auto racks, Trail van, Flexi van mark III, piggy back flats, if the car gives me trouble. Running blocks of 10 cars and yes as stated above, hard to uncouple with the (fingers & thumb overhead crane) but I use a wooden dowl with a brass rod to stick in the coupler faces and it’s so simple to uncouple. If the cars derail, the cars with shelf couplers will derail but stay together.[:O] I have not needed to use a transtion car, being that the freight car more then likely is a shorter car with the coupler being closer to the truck kingpin, and not having alot of up and down motion. You did say a “couple of Auto Carriers”, thats only two.
Depending on your layout’s construction and how you originally did the grade, it may not require too much tearing-out of the landscape.
If the track is ballasted, soak the area with “wet” water so that the ballast can be removed, or at least not contribute to holding the track down. If your track is nailed in place, pull all of the nails within, and somewhat beyond both ends of the area of the transition.
What I’m suggesting is that you free the track enough so that it can be lifted and allowed to make its own transition. Once it looks appropriate, you can either slip blocks of wood or foam of suitable thickness under the track at intervals, and then re-ballast, or, you could simply re-ballast, without the blocks and let the ballast support the track as it does on the prototype.
When you pre-wet the deeper ballast prior to applying the diluted white glue, make sure that the “wet” water penetrates completely through the ballast, and right down to the cork or subroadbed - too much is better than too little, and the same can be said for the glue application. The greater the ballast depth, the longer the drying time, so be patient - if you run trains on it too soon, you’ll end up with the situation which you have now. I have several areas of deep ballast on my layout, including some which supports track, and drying times may
Here is the deal… (as Richard Petty would say),
The problem is obviously the lack of a gentle vertical transition from “flat to 2 percent”. If you don’t fix it, it will be with you the entire life of the layout. It will continue to be a pain and a reminder that it could be better. And, it will affect your enthusiam as time goes by.
I’ll definately be fixing the transistion as soon as I’ve finished the current section of the layout I’m working on. In the meantime it’s worth trying the shelf couplers as it’s little effort and might provide a temporary solution.
I agree with PC101 on the derail thing. If you use shelf couplers with powerful locomotives and a derail occurs there could be a lot of damage because the couplers will not release.
I over weight all my locomotives, most have 5+ ounce drawbar and will pull the paint off the walls. A pair of E7s could really tear up a train if it derailed using shelf couplers.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield
I put the shelfs on for even regular trackage if you hit some lumpy spot. I put them on one side of long passenger cars if they show a problem. I would add a little more weight to the container cars and any other such cars like that. Yep I put them on my Centipede, some steam if double heading. There are various uncouplers you can use, one uses a thin metal stip you insert between the knuckles, spin it it opens the knuckles, the other is a magnetic wand with 2 magnets, insert between the cars should pull the pins over.
I doubt it. All of my Kadee couplers aren’t so tight that the scenerio you suggest would likely happen unless it was an extreme transition. There is a little up and down slop on most Kadee’s that combined, should allow things to function and not derail.