i have a ho train with ez track. should get rid of it and use regular ho track
Thanks
If the E-Z track works for you, no. I know a lot of folks believe you have to use cork roadbed and flextrack to be a “real” model railroader, but that’s not true. I’ve been in the hobby almost 40 years, and my current lyaout is using Kato Unitrack which is similar to EZ-track (except it’s smaller rail, code 83 vs. code 100.
E-Z track is designed to be track with attached subroadbed. Many folks don’t realize the gray part isn’t supposed to be ballast. Once you have the layout the way you want it, you can add ballast to the E-Z track which will enhance the appearance. Kato and Atlas “click track” have the ballast as part of the roadbed.
If it’s the steel rails on black roadbed, I would get rid of it since it’s hard to keep clean. If it’s the nickle silver on grey roadbed, then I would keep it. It’s great for putting something on the floor at Christmas too. You can mix the EZ track and regular track since it’s code 100 and uses rail joiners.
The only problem with ez track is that it amplifies the sound of the passing train, even on carpet. Other than that, its a fairly good brand of track.
The Lone Geep
The only disadvantage of EZ track that I’ve found is that if you use it as a permanent installation, you’ll need to space feeders every two sections to ensure good electrical conductivity. But with that out of the way, it’s good stuff.
I actually have a large section of wide-radius (36") EZ track on the Yuba River Sub, where I needed an EXACT radius around a sheer cliff (6 actual foot drop from track to garage floor) and I didn’t really trust my laying of flex-track to do the job. I’ve had the section in for about 10 years, and it’s been absolutely trouble-free.
About the only other problem I see with EZ track is that the roadbed is about 1/8" taller than flex-track laid on either cork or foam roadbed, so if you’re mixing the two for permanent installation, the flex-track roadbed will have to be shimmed up to match the EZ track height. Other than that, the two brands mix quite smoothly.
Tom
E-Z-Track is neither better nor worse than flex, or hand-laid (by a reasonably skilled tracklayer,) or any of the other makes of sectional track with or without roadbed. The rails are properly gauged and the curve radii are exactly as advertised. Trains will run on it.
That said, I have used some (gathered at yard sales by my sister) to put up temporary tramways so there would be someplace to run before the permanent roadbed and track went in. I wouldn’t use it for permanent construction - but that’s because I use spiral curve easements, parabolic grade easements and odd (metric measurement) radii not found on the labels of sectional track. Easements are the difference between smooth running and that abrupt sideways jerk when a train enters a curve. If you don’t mind the lurch and your trains don’t derail, don’t worry about it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex track and hand-laid specialwork)
louder than cork/rubber,
considerably higher than cork/rubber
more “clickty clacks” than prototypical as the rails bridge the gaps.
I am new to this. But I love ez rack.
As a newbie, I started out using regulur track, but found that my skills needed work before I could continue using it so I switched to ez track for ease of use. I am currently building a layout for my grandkids and I find it pretty easy to deal with and it is a lot quicker for setting up a layout. I solved part of the noise problem (reduced by 50%) by using rubber material for shelving (at Walmart etc.) cut to track width and placed under the track on 2" foamboard. I didn’t want to spend a lot of time filling in under the track to deaden it even further. I have found that plastic wheels are less noisy that metal also. I would say it depends on what your long term goal is for your layout whether you want to be more adventurous in the track design or if the limited use of ez track configurations will produce the desired design unless you are going to mix and match as stated above. I am more interested in the scenery portion than actually running trains, so this is a better approach for me at the present moment and the interest of the grandkids may also determine my further involvement as well.
Happy modeling!
Dennis
My entire layout is EZ track. The cheap black steel kind. I have had absolutely NO problem with it. I love it. Layout went together quickly and it stays together. No need of cork install, glue, or pins and nails. As for the noise, I really didn’t notice it but I read about a solution and tried it. Take some foam tape, the kind that seals camper shells to pickups and lay that down on your layout, then place the track on top. There is a difference I had never noticed before. The one disadvantage is the use of flex track, it is all sections and you have to fit it. The thing I like the best is that the track stays together. I have not soldered the rails etc. When it clicks with the correct rail joiner, electrical current is efficiently transferred . My layout is an L with over 36 feet of mainline with just as much sidings and passings etc., at least. It was originally wired for DC block control but has been converted to DCC recently. My track is over 2 years old in an environmentally control room and I have had no problem with keeping the steel clean and rust free. No promises on if its outside or in high humidity. My father uses Atlas and he has had major headaches keeping it properly lined up (Its in a garage) Turnouts are expensive and the DCC ones are even more so. But no cork and install is a breeze, so its a trade off. In short, I love it and plan to use it on my expansion whenever that happens
Many use it and love it. When properly ballasted it’s hard to tell from other brands of track. The turnouts are a different story.
I agree completely. I have gotten my turnouts to work, but it did take some work. I had 2 in particular that gave me a lot of headaches. I eventually just replaced them. Never really figured out why. I do have #4’s. I think next time I may go with 5’s (they make those now) or 6’s. The 4’s fit where I wanted them.
It can be done, but I wouldn’t recommend any elevation changes. EZ track works best when its level. I experimented with it and found the grades had to be very gradual and this takes up a lot of space. I wasn’t happy with what I had and just decided to hills. The ground goes up and down around it. Plus i model eastern NC, we don’t have any hills, just marsh.