I am curious to learn the experience of the forum members using the acrylic glosscote/dullcote equivalents. By this I mean products from Modelflex, Polly S and the manufacturer of Microset/Microsol. I used the Modelflex gloss coat and dull coat and didn’t like them at all. In particular the dull coat came out more like a satin coat. In addition, the finish was no place near as hard as I get with Dullcote. I threw out nearly full bottles of both.
I prefer the acrylics as they are easier on my lungs, but the Testor’s Dullcote in particular does a bang-up job. Very flat, and goes on with an airbrush really well when thinned. Yes, I DO use a spray hood to paint, but I wind up transferring Dullcote to a spray bottle and thinning it at my workbench.
Scott, you need to use glosscoat to apply decals, then flat finish to blend everything in. I used to mix Floquil flat finish and glosscoat half&half, which always gave me a nice even finish. Now I have to use light coatings of Polly S clear gloss to finish my paintjobs. I have been using Badger ACCU-flex paints, which really don’t require a finish coat, with good results. Testor’s dullcoat is an old standby, but you have to avoid the temptation to give it one more burst…
I have had good results with the PollyScale gloss, satin and flat finishes. They create a nice finish that is not thick, reaching its maximum hardness in about 3 days. One advantage is that with several coats, it will not “stack up” on the paint surface. It is a different approach in technique than dullcoat or gloss coat. I have a couple of bottles of the Badger finishes I have yet to try. The PS flat is also great for giving a model that faded paint look. You can mix it with 70 percent alcohol for a more weathered finish. I recommend practicing on soda cans or old rolling stock to adjust to it.
I use Testor’s Dullcote from a spray can. Works fine, lasts a long time. The one thing to consider when using it over an acrylic finish, is to give the acrylics time to cure. Let it alone at LEAST 24 hours, and preferrably 48 before you shoot it with any oil-based product. That way, you won’t have to worry about the Dullcote dissolving the acrylics. Yes, I’ve seen it happen and seen a grown man nearly cry after a beautiful paint job was ruined bcause he couldn’t wait to finish it off.
Now, one product I REALLY like is Tamiya’s clear gloss acryilic paint. Not, for spraying or coating a surface (I use Testor’s Glosscote for that) but for lenses on vehicle headlights, lanterns, etc. Paint the headlight and, when dry, place a drop of the gloss acrylic on top and let it dry. Makes an excellent faux glass lens. Also works well on things like eyeglasses, welder’s goggles, etc on larger scale figures, and is especially useful on guages inside of locomotives, etc.
However, I have yet to find an acrylic clear finish that I am satisfied with. Until then, i will stay with the Testor’s enamel-based products for clear finishes, except that, in a pinch, the Krylon works VERY well, but again, MUST be used only over a fully-cured acrylic finish to prevent damage.
I have hand painted with Tamiyas with ww2 models etc and have learned to let them dry for a day or two. Best dry when you cannot smell the odor of the paint.
Glosscote… THEN DEcals etc… THEN DULLCOTE and youre done.
Each coat needs a day to dry or so. Getting the paint to dry properly is the key before shoving more stuff onto them.
My LHS taught us and gave us hands on experience last several saturdays with an Airbrush and acrylics and I tell ya, that was invalueable.
Humidity plays a role also, you dont want it to be wet in the air and make your sprays get really bad.
A few years ago, I did several Athearn “blue box” diesels with the glosscote, decals, then dullcote application, and they turned out pretty good. Now, I am looking at doing a factory painted, but unlettered Spectrum 2-8-0 that I intend to letter, then convert to DCC.
Do I need to airbrush the entire model with glosscote or something similar, or can I get away with just brushing the areas to be lettered? I realize the entire model will probably have to be sprayed with dullcote when I am finished. Thanks in advance for any help, and I’ll probably start a new thread when I move on to the Tsunami installation.
To the last poster, yes you can just glosscote the area to be decalled. When you’re done decalling, flat cote the same area you glosscoted and let that dry, then come back and cote the whole model in your coice of fiinish. This should make for a more even overall finish.
Now as to acrylic verus dull/gloss cote. My opinions are based on 20 years experience as a custom painter.
First off. the best gloss and flat are Floquil’s laquer-based finishes. Being laquer based, I don’t recommend them unless you have experience with laquer paints - it too easy to ruin a shell or a paint job if you don’t know what you’re doing.
The easiest are Testors in te can. Dullcote gives you a nice hard flat finish. For my tastes Glosscote goes on too thick, but is very glossy. Both are available in bottles and can be thinned with mineral spirits. Much better.
My favorites are the PollyScale acrylics. they go on smooth, are non-yellowing, and dry fast - you can decal on the gloss within 30-45 minutes, although it does take them , like any other polyurathane, about 2 weeks to fullly cure to max hardness (and then it’ll be harder than Dullcote). Modelflex is pretty much te same stuff (same parent company).
Only thing I’d add is don’t try to skip a step by doing the decals, then weathering, then sealing it with dullcote. I always do glosscote - decals - dullcote - weathering - dullcote. I seal in the decals, then go back with powdered charcoal (or alcohol and india ink, or whatever you like) and then seal that in with flat finish again. Then I may go back and add a little weathering with chalks…unfortunately, the dullcote dissolves the chalk weathering so you can’t seal that in like you can powdered charcoal.
If you weather the “unprotected” decals, the weathering can get under the decals and it looks awful !!
Thanks…would you recommend applying that glosscote with a paint brush or airbrush? The small areas around the cab and domes should be fine for a brush, but I’m wondering if the tender shouldn’t be airbrushed. Once I get everything sealed, I do plan on applying dullcote from a airbrush to the whole model.
To the poster who is contemplating painting a Spectrum 2-8-0 prior to decaling, I recommend using an airbrush rather than a paint brush.
I have the same model and hand-painted the Glosscote where the decals would go. I used it full strength out of the bottle but I could not get rid of the brush marks.
I went ahead and applied the decals and then airbrushed Dullcote over it but the brush marks and the edge of the application of the Glosscote still showed through. I airbrushed a second Dullcote layer and it helped a little bit.
I wound up using Bragdon chalks to heavily weather the offending areas and that mostly made the mistake disappear,
Years and years ago, when the acrylics were first coming out, I tried several brands,Tamiya,Gunze Sangyo,PollyS and a few others…my opinion then, they all were a waste of money.
They ‘‘pebbled’’,ran,cracked,peeled and generally looked like thinned RIT dye that had been painted on.
Fortunately, technology moves ahead, and the new generation of acrylics are equal to, or in some cases, better, than the oil base enamels they were designed to replace. BUT…in order for them to work, you must read and follow ALL the directions.
I still like Model Master,Floquil and Humbrol enamels and use them more than any acrylics…I have had good success with Badgers offerings and the ability to spray them straight from the bottle is a big plus.I always allow at least 2 days drying time before I do anything…[handle,decal,weathering]…when I’m sure they’re thoroughly dry…I airbrush Testors gloscote on and let it dry for 24 hrs. at least, then decal, I let the decals dry 24 hrs. also, but they really dont need that long to be ready to overspray [one thing tho, if you use Solvaset or Microset to get the decals snuggled down, be sure to give it at least 24 hrs. to dry and then inspect the decals for bubbles].After the decals are dry I gloscote them and let it dry 6-12 hrs. followed by a even coat of Testors dullcote.
You can spray laquers over the acrylics…but you can’t spray acrylics over laquer or oil base enamels…they wont stick and you’ll have problems. If you want to use all acrylic paint\overcoat products…just be sure to follow the directions to the letter.