Help with removing masking tape residue from model

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hello to all,

I recently painted a undecorated model using Scalecoat paint for plastic. Prior to removing the maksing tape, I heated the model with a hair dryer so the backing of the tape will not stick to the model. Unfortunately, as I was pulling the tape off, some of the sticky residue from the tape stayed on the model. How can I remove this residue from the model with out damaging the paint? I tried using 70% alcohol on a Q-Tip, but as I began to rub it, the paint started to come off.

Any suggestions?

2

I might be wrong…but i think you would not have this problem had you not used the hairdryer. I think that heating would cause the glue on the tape to adhere more to the model. I have used masking tape in the past & have had fairly good results, when I peel the tape off I pull it back over itself. Although a little more expensive I have had good results with 3M blue painters tape

3

TRY LIGHTER FLUID.

CHUCK

4

I’m not sure how you can get that residue off, but to avoid such a situation in the future, here are a few tips.

1 - When masking a model for painting, lay out strips of the tape on a clean sheet of glass, then use a new blade to remove the factory edges from the tape. This will give you a cleaner line, and eliminate the bumps and dings that a roll of tape can accumulate on its edges. It also removes any “fuzzies” that might have stuck to the tape’s edges. Sticking it onto the glass will also cut the holding power of the adhesive slightly - I like to use regular masking tape, as I find the green or blue varieties don’t stick well enough, especially when using lacquer-based paints.

2 - If you need to cut special shapes, or tape to mask for narrow striping, do it while the tape is stuck to the glass. Use dividers or calipers to keep the edges parallel.

3 - Use the dividers or calipers, as required, when placing the tape on the model. Don’t stretch the tape over protruding details, such as door hinges and latches on diesels. Instead, work it into the irregularities and especially into any inside corners, and grooves, such as those between moulded-on doors. This will prevent the tape from pulling away from these areas as you paint.

4 - When you’ve finished painting, clean your airbrush first. [;)] By the time that you’ve finished, the paint should be dry to the touch. This is the time to remove the tape, before the paint fully hardens.

5 - To remove the tape with the least stress to the paint to which it was applied (the first coat(s)), pull the tape back, at as sharp an angle possible, over itself. The non-sticky side of the tape, as it’s being removed, should be as close as possible to the non-sticky side of the tape still on the model.

6 - Learn to use a paint brush [:O] to do any touch-up required. No matter ho

5

What type of tape?

Some tapes will leave adhesive, particularly if it’s old. Also, I wouldn’t advise using a hairdryer to heat the tape.

I use 3M automotive making tape, including 3M’s Fine Line automotive tape. No problem with gum residue.

To remove the gum from your shell, try WD-40.

Rotor

6

My guess is that if you use lighter fluid, you might as well use it directly from the lighter - in other words, just set the whole thing ablaze. [swg]

You might try putting the model in the freezer for a little while, then try rubbing the residue off: this is a proven method for removing chewing gum from things, and might work on the sticky residue, too. I’d suggest using this method before you torch the model, though.

I also agree that your use of the hair dryer is probably what caused the problem. Next time, remove the tape as I suggested, then use the hair dryer.

Wayne

7

Greg, I haven’t tried this, but citrus based glue removers like “Goo Gone” are supposed to be gentle
and it was just recommended to me to try and remove adhesive from dry wall without damaging the paint.
You might give it a try on a small area and it smells like oranges.

8

Goo Gone works! And works really well too boot. So well that you don’t even have to worry about the paint coming off. For this type of application I would apply to a Q-tip first and then rub out any residue.

9

Thanks to all for replying. Except for the Goo Gone, everything that was posted was done. This isn’t my first time using an air brush and this isn’t my first time using masking tape with a hair dryer. The tape was laid down on a piece of glass which is why it seems strange some of the residue stuck to the the model. I peeled the tape off at an angle over itself. Its only a small piece, not on the entire model but it is very noticeable. I didn’t use the blue tape because on several models, the tape actually peeled off the paint it was covering and I had to redue the paint job.

10

This may sound dumb - WD40!! It works on a lot of things - like crayon on walls - without damaging the surface!! Try it - what do you have to loose? It doesn’t bother plastic - especially if wiped off soon. My [2c]

11

Buy a better brand of masking tape!

The only time I’ve ever had residue left behind by masking tape is when that piece of tape has been stuck to an object for YEARS.

A few hours for a paint job should be no problem at all.

12

Craig,

Thanks for the reply, however it was a brand new role of tape bought a day before I painted the model.

13

WD40 or Goo Gone are the adhesive residue removers of choice.

-G-

14

Scale modellers have had this problem since they started using masking tape. Years and years ago I had trouble with residue from tape sticking to my aircraft and ship models, my LHS guy tipped me to an easy and overlooked way to get it off your painted model. You take a piece of the same tape you used to mask, fold it, sticky side out, then stick it onto the leftover residue and start dabbing. The residue sticks to the adhesive on the tape and comes right off. No need to use solvents or alcohol that might damage your finish. The best way to avoid this in the future is to switch from regular masking tape to blue painters tape. You will need to burnish the blue tape a bit to get it to stick properly.

Ignore the crack about lighter fluid, and I wouldn’t use WD40 on a painted model, and if you paint with acrylics, GOO Gone is a no-no also.

15

Goo Gone and WD40 might leave residues of their own that will need to be removed from the surface. I am surprised that 70% alcohol on a Qtip removed any paint. Perhaps a diluted solution of alcohol and distilled water would work w/o damage to the paint.

This may sound nuts but perhaps white (clear) vinegar or pure lemon juice on that Qtip might work. The very light acid might do the trick

Dave Nelson