On the layout PRR I’m building, all the of the turnouts are in the streets. I prefer caboose hand throws, but they really aren’t appropriate for prototype in that the switches were on the sidewalk and that is off layout. So I planned on running piano wire through buried soda straws to the fascia.
So I want to make some kind of cool control on the fascia. A wood ball would be enough, but I can’t figure how to make it stick/last.
Any cheap and cool ideas? I’m using Fast Tracks turnouts.
How about using the Caboose Ind. groung throws on a small shelf on the Facia.
Mike Dickinson
Hmm… because you are using fast tracks turnouts you will need something that will hold tension to the stockrail so that derailments do not occur. I suggest that you build a simple over center spring to hold the tension. this can be attached almost anywhere.
as for attaching a wood ball to a small brass rod in the facia. How thick is your fasia?
if it is 1/2’ or thicker your are in good shape. if not I would add something with a little support for what i am suggesting.
what you will need:
1/4" dia. doweling
wooden ball with 1/4" dia. hole in it.
1/4" drill bit and drill
epoxy.
Method:
Drill a small hole (same diameter as your brass wire into your doweling (the end of the dowel). Cut Dowling so that is about 1/2 longer than the thickness of fascia and support board. Insert brass into the hole you drilled in the end and epoxy it. the other end of the wire goes to our turnout. drill a 1/4" hole in your facia and insert the doweling into that hole. if you drilled very closely to a 1/4" on your wooden knob press fiting it should be tight enough. (this is so if you need to you can remove it later.
I didn’t use brass wire on mine but I will post pictures later showing what I did. I used under the table doweling rods with steel rods that attached to switch from underneath to move my switches.
Chip, my skills set is such that I don’t make my TO’s the way Tim does in his video. I don’t know how yours have/will turn out, but mine tend to be “stiff” at the throwbar, almost gritty. So, even though they work just fine in my hand, when installed and fiddled with so that your rolling items work well on them, you may find, as I have, that they need a surprising amount of oomph to get the points to where they need to be. (Oh, and you will probably have to fiddle…for sure…with the points, even if it is refining your bevel at the flange interface at the tip. I got mine just right, eventually, and you will too…just a heads-up) They will often stay put with a minimum pressure, but not always…depends on the tension they are under when you figure they are installed correctly. So, my coat hangar wire push-pulls don’t exactly suck, but they ain’t far from it. In time, I will invest in long cables running in wound wire, choke cables, or even longish shutter tripping cables…something more positive than springy wire.
Anyway, just to let you know that you will want something that has a detent, or a locking capability of some kind, to keep the points tight. Otherwise, all the beveling in the world won’t stop the picking.
If you’re willing to spend a little money, you could try these:
Chip,
Would you believe - toggle switches? SPDT or DPDT on-on type, which will route power to a solid frog and/or signal lamps as well as provide more than enough force to hold even stubborn points in position. The ones I use came from Radio Shack and have plastic handles big enough to be safely drilled for paper clip size wire. I mount them inside little niches in the fascia, on brackets cobbled up from steel stud material. Depending on the configuration of your trackwork, they can be mounted singly or in groups.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I just recalled someone makes these nifty realistic turnout throws that look like signal tower
levers. Don’t have a link yet, have to search it out.
Chuck, how to you figure out where to drill so that the throw of the toggle matches the throw of the points to such a fine degree that you don’t bend or force too much/far…or not enough?
I don’t. I incorporate a spring link (bent paper clip material) between the toggle handle and the points. In most cases, the home-made Anderson link incorporates the compensating spring.
Homemade Anderson link - small brass tube (used to use expended ball pen cartridges) about 1/2 inch from throw bar (perpendicular to throw bar) houses vertical part of bent paper clip, bent into form of inverted L with a tip bent down to fit into a hole in the throwbar. At the bottom of the tube, the paper clip is bent perpendicular to the connection to the toggle switch. Connections I have used include lengths of brass rail, flat-ended pieces of baling wire (honest!) and clothes hanger wire, and the stiffener strips from used windshield wiper blades. Guides range from screw-loops to lengths of bicycle brake cable sleeve secured with hose clamps. (I use the same system for aisle-edge mounted 2-coil machines if the turnout must be operable from two or more locations.)
When the toggle is held at center, the points should be centered (after wiggling them to relieve friction and compensate for slack in the linkage.) With the toggle all the way over, the points should be pressed into the stock rail, and should snap back if forced away from the stock rail. I test this with a thin flat screwdriver blade slid in from the frog end of the point.
There are many other systems. This works for me.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Are you sure you didn’t mean to say slide switches instead of toggles? If you did mean toggles, I’d realy like to see a picture of this method or a more detailed explanation.
Thanks very much for your detailed reply, Chuck.
I don’t suppose…you would indulge us with a four/five photo essay…?
[8)]
-Crandell
With FAST TRACKS you get to make and gage switches by hand. The BENEFIT is turnouts that don’t derail.
The CAVRAT is electrical contact, and spring pressure holding rails together. Unfortunately switch machines that do both - like Tortoise - are not cheap.
UNFORTUNATELY you chose the fast tracks for price considerations, instead of for ideal geometry and tracking. Shades of ‘Lil’ Linberg switcher.
The only answer I know is to bite the bullet, design your own, or use the Caboose 220 with extentions. It’s the cheapest thing out there that provides positive electrical power with spring action. Maybe you can find them on $ale.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-220
Probably the ‘COOLEST’ thing out there are those ‘Hump yard’ mechanical throws used with SPDT switches. Like the Caboose 220, it needs a clever mounting scheme.
There have been articles in past MR’s about mounting a SPDT lever switch along the throw rod. for reliable-powering of frogs, - but that just adds to the expense for more reliability.
Don
Although price was a consideration, I ultimately went with Fast Tracks because of it’s reputation as being the best tracking turnout out there bar none. I go so tired of problems with my small steam and EZ track turnouts that I swore I’d never have turnout (or track) problems again.
As for Lil Guy, I’ve got a decoder picked out and He’ll get his share of track time. He’s got Hogwarts colors these days.
As for the 220’s, it’s probably how I will have to go. I had not figured on the elasticity of the points, but I get it. I was also concerned about powering the frogs so two stones at one bird as they say.
Crandell, I’d love to - but I’m one of those primitives who doesn’t even own a digital camera - or a photo scanner. Sorry.
Jay, I really DID say toggle switches. I’ve also used slide switches, but really prefer those plastic-handled toggles. Longer throw and easier to use with these arthritic old paws. I file a small flat and then drill through at the thickest point of the handle (about 1/3 of the way up) perpendicular to the throw of the toggle switch, using a drill just large enough to clear whatever I’m using as a final link. The usual material is a straightened and re-bent paper clip.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Ah ha! <— me with light bulb coming on. I get it.
It would work and handle the electrical issues as well.
But both have to be mounted on top of the facia.
I looked. They are the best option yet.
I have been a fan of Humpyards for quite a while. They look great, hold tension and route power. I have just ordered a bunch for the quarry scene.
Chip, my toggle switches actually mount INSIDE the fascia. I mount them to the skinny side of a chunk of steel stud material that mounts to the layout frame with the wide closed side facing the aisle. The masonite fascia screws to that flat side, with a 2" square hole (single toggle) or 2" high slot (multiple toggles) for finger access. I arrange them so that the handles are away from me when the switch points are in normal position, and toward me when the points are “reversed” (which is standard interlocking plant practice.) The top of the slot is at or below the level of the bottom of whatever reaches the edge of the table next above
Nice thing about steel stud material - a few seconds of creative cutting and bending can solve any mounting/connection issue that may come up.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chip,
I’ve made my push-pull device and throw turnouts at the fascia. At my Westport sites you see how I did it and how it looks.
This turnout at Harbor District is in the street:
Wolfgang
I was going to suggest using RC servo pushrods to actuate them, but it looks like Hump Yard beat me to it. They are a bit pricey, but if you only need them for 2 or 3 it wouldn’t be too bad.