I am looking for a simple way to incline track on my layout for about twenty feet. Has anyone used the Woodland Scenics incline sets? How do they work? What set should I use or would I use a combination of sets? Can I lay track under the inclines? Many questions just looking for some advice. Thanks
I’ve used the WS incline starter set (4% grade) but they are just that- the beginning of the incline or end of the decline. I also tried to use the speciality tool with which you set the grade and it shows you when that grade is reached by level readout… it won’t work accurately with curved track. A simple formula works to determine grade height/length=grade. I figured what my grade should be ideally, tested my engines on it with a few weighted cars, and settled on something near 4.1% grade when it was all done. My locos are geared steam and easily pull the hill. You’ve got a max of 10 feet either way to get up and down so that is your max length. If you want a 5" rise in track elevation, that is the height 5/120=.04166 or 4.17% grade. Play around with the equation and you will at least know where to start and stop going up or down. I did find the WS starter set useful for smooth transitions on both ends but they don’t get you up very far (but that’s all I needed since I knew where the grade was to end). Most folks don’t use grades above 4%. I saved a few $$ not using the full incline set despite my skill (or lack thereof) and it looks good to me. Hope this helps, Roy
Yes Woodland Scenics risers and incline sets are part of their subterrain system and are very easy to use. Use low temp hot glue, white glue, Aleenes Tacky glue to secure them to your foam or plywood base. They are designed to be covered with WS plaster cloth and then glue roadbed and track.
Inclines come in 3 different grades, 2%, 3% and 4%. The 4% grade gives you the most height in the shortest distance. Make sure you allow for the downgrade as well. Here is a link to WS subterrain system:
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/items.cfm/Inclines
You didn’t mention how high or what distance you wanted to elevate the track to over that 20’ span. 20’ @ a 4% grade is killer steep and you will definitely need helpers unless your pulling very short trains.
You need to know those two parts (Rise /Run) to then calculate the grade %. Lets say if in your 20 run you wanted to go up 2" that would be a 1% grade. So obviously the longer run you have to get to a desired elevation the better off you are. Steep grades in relatively short distances in model railroading generally don’t work very well.
4% is a very steep grade and really should have a transition.
If you lay a 2% and then about 18 inches in, lay another 2% on top of it you will get a 4% grade with a 2% transition.
My guideline is a 1% change in grade for every car length, so if you’re going to have full-length 85-foot passenger cars, in HO, they’re a foot long, that would mean a 4-foot transition length to get from level to a 4% grade. You may be able to fudge on this a little, but the danger is that the couplers will move up-and-down far enough to unhitch from vertical misalignment, which is a nuisance you can really live without.
If you’re really pressed for space, set up a test section with measured blocking under the track and see how it looks in your case. Good luck - Gerhard
You could use spline. It is a very inexpensive way to go,gives great easements in and out of the incline. You can do about 48’ of roadbed for under $10.00. You also save money by not needing cork as you just attach the track directly to the spline. It’s great! This was my first attempt and so far it turned out perfectly. Do a search on spline and you will be well informed after a little reading. This hill goes up 6" over about 40’. 
Brent
Yes, be carefull with the grade. It is better to build wisely within your available space than attempt to force elements such as an unrealistic elevation change. I run 10 and 12 full length car passenger trains and keep the grade to approximatley 1.56% or less so a 3-unit locomotive can power them adequately updrade.
My10-inch elevation change transitions over 54 feet with no problems. Unless you are running Shays or other gear driven logging locomotives, try avoiding anything over 2 percent.
Please define SPLINE?
You can make your own inclines, too. I use 1.5" foam for N scale, cut the inclines on the table saw, then make cuts 2/3 of the way through the foam at 1" intervals on both sides with the radial saw [offset cuts so they are 1/2" apart]. It will bend to 9" radius without breaking.
This website explains it pretty well.
http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.15