I’m working on my first layout and I made what I think is a crucial mistake… I have already put both main lines down on the table but I failed to pre-drill the holes under the turnouts for the switch machines. [:(] My next steps are to build the small yard and industry spurs where I will indeed remember to pre-drill the switch machine holes.
Is there anyway I can still add the holes for motors on the main lines since I’ve put down the track? I really don’t want to tear up the track because It seems like such a big hassle.
I was hoping to use Tortoise switch machines as I’ve seen these used on countless other layouts and I use them on my Free-Mo module as well.
Can you slide something underneath the switch btw the switch and the roadbed like sheet metal while you drill from below? Drill slowly at low torque so the bit doesn’t get caught in the metal. Buy you might end up sacrificing the bit anyway as it could get dull or damaged when it comes in contact with the sheet metal. Also, make sure to use eye protection. Don’t be afraid to use a larger bit than usually used like 3/8". That size of bit would be more durable than a smaller bit that could break in this application.
Did you glue down the switches or spike them? I always spike my switches down until I glue on the ballast. Then I remove the spikes. If you glued them down with ballast and white glue, you can wet the ballast and it will eventually come undone. Removing the switches and drilling the hole would be less risky. If you do take the switches out, make sure to mark the holes so that when you put them back in the hole is in the right place. You live and you learn.
The Tortoise doesn’t have to be mounted directly under the centerline of the track. The throwbars extend out beyond the ties. The end of the throwbar may be a bit more flexible and maybe you can push it aside while you drill at least a pilot hole, and then you can lift the end of the throwbar to get some clearance while you drill up from underneath where the pilot hole comes through. Use a drill stop on your bit so you don’t punch through and damage anything.
You could even drill the hole just beyond the throwbar, and fashion a short linkage at the end after you get the Tortoise wire up through the sub-roadbed. Lengthen the adjacent ties and mount a non-functional switch stand over the linkage, and turn adversity into a modeling opportunity.
Block the points in the midthrow position (both points open equally). Using a very small dril bit that passes through the hole in the throw bar, drill a pilot hole down through the roadbed. Drill the proper sized hole for your machine up from the bottom following the pilot hole. Drill slowly and carefully.
FWIW, I have have used track nails to first nail down the roadbed then I put down the Atlas Code 100 track and flex track using track nails again. The turnouts are also Atlas Code 100.
I tried to drill down using my modeling bit set which worked great. Obviously the cork bed wasn’t an issue until I hit the table which is made out plywood. I didn’t want to break my small bit. I like the idea of drilling a pilot hole through the turnout but I don’t have a bit small enough to fit in my drill that would NOT enlarge the hold in the turnout. So my question is this can I increase the size of the hole in the throw bar or is this an idea I should stay away from?
Post drill hole installs are not an easy thing to be sure.
I had to do it twice though. Here’s what I did.
From the top with a narrow bit, I drilled a hole beside the throw bar. The small hole would show up on the bottom of the table. I used this as my marker for the main hole.
I put a thing piece of metal between the ties and roadbed. I then used a end milling bit (flat with sharpened teeth) and SLOWLY at a low RPM pushed evenly upward from underneath.
You might be able to use a plunge router set at a specific depth. But that is somewhat dangerous given irregularities in thickness and the power of the router.
You can also use a throw bar piano wire snap switch type relay. This would require no drilling under the turnout itself.
regular, spade, and forstner bits have a spur in the middle which will pop through before the sides do. That’s why I used a mill end bit. But they weren’t really designed for hand drills.
Micromark has some mill bits in their catalog IIRC.
When I have to drill through the throwbar for a pilot hole I use a #50 bit in a pin vise and back it out several times to clear out the shavings. When drilling the hole up I use a brad point bit which helps to follow the pilot hole.
I added 28 tortoise switch machines after my track was laid (same rookie mistake and budget restraints at the time). I was lucky as all my turnouts were Atlas and the throw bar can be removed by GENTLEY bending the tabs up and slidding out the rails allowing plenty of room for the wire from below and too drill from above. I beleive Tortoise requires a 1/4" hole but found a larger drill size allows it to work better. After removing the throw bar use a drill that just fits between the two ties without touching the ties. You may have to use a small pilot drill bit first so the larger drill bit does not wander and damage a tie.
If you can’t remove the throw bar than drill from below. The idea of a thin piece of metal (in a previous post) is a good idea. Also measure the thickness of wood you have to get through and transfer that measurement to the drill bit adding a bit of masking tap around the drill bit so that as you drill up you only drill to the proper depth.
The first one you won’t like, and that is to remove the turnouts and drill the required holes.
The second suggestion is to buy a hole saw drill bit. A hole saw drill bit is just that - - a drill bit and a saw rolled into one. Here is a photo of one:
If you already have small pilot holes drilled throught the plywood, it will be easy to center the hole saw drill bit. The Tortoise requires a 5/8 inch diameter hole to work properly. So, that is the size of the hole saw drill but you should buy. It should cost less than $10 at Lowes or Home Depot. If your plywood is 1/2 inch thick, wrap a piece of masking tape around the outside wall of the hole saw at the 1/2 inch depth. That way, you know when to stop drilling through the underside of the plywood so as to avoid sawing up into the turnout.
If you have roadbed and a plywood subroadbed, or, because the benchwork prevents you from installing the switch machine directly under the turnout, Circuitron makes a remote tortoise mount.
If you used foam and have a thick subroadbed, there’s a method that I read about, but can’t recall what it’s called. Parts and tools required are:
Piano wire - I think the thickness is around .032"-.035". From what I’ve read, the wire that comes with the Tortoise isn’t quite thick enough.
Brass tubing - IIRC it was like 1/8" in diameter. But, make sure the wire will slide freely in the tubing.
Cutters specifically made to cut piano wire. Don’t use your rail nippers or electrical wire cutters!! The hardened wire will ruin them in short order!!
Instead of drilling the hole directly under the throwbar center, you drill the hole, centered between the rails, between the tie next to the throwbar and the second tie away from the throwbar. Slide the tubing down through the hole and mark it about 1/8" below the bottom of the subroadbed.
Remove the tubing and cut it at the mark. If you don’t have a tubing cutter, use a Dremel with a cutoff disk (don’t forget your eye protection.
Insert the tubing into the hole. From underneath, pull the tubing down enough so that it protrudes about 1/4". If you have thicker subroadbed, you can pull it farther. What you want is to pull it far enough through to apply some epoxy, then push it back up into the hole.
Check from above to make sure that the tubing is flush or just below the ties.
Make a 1/8" bend in the wire. Now, make another bend in the wire so that when you slide the wire into the tubing, the first bend will fit into the center of the throwbar hole.
After determining the ideal mounting location for your switch machine, bend the tubing to a 90&de