Hi,
What thickness of foam would you use to insulate your layout room? My basement is just too
cold to run trains comfortably.
Thanks,
Chris
Assuming moisture doesn’t contribute to the way you feel, and that it is kept to around 50-65% one way or another, I would think about R-15-20 for a basement, but it depends also on the ambient outside during the cold season and also how much of the top of the basement walls are exposed to cold soil or air. Nota all basements protrude from the ground to the same extent.
Is there framing into which you could press battens of fiberglass? Must it be the extruded foam insulation board? No matter, use whatever extruded foam will get you close to R-20 in the thinnest profile.
Crandell
Well that’s going to depend on just what the climate is like where you are, and in what manner you intend to finish the walls. If you are going to build standard stud walls, regualr insualtion bats with a proper moisture barrier would be fine. Lais over studs, or smalelr furring strips - you cna put up panels of extruded foam, which still require a proper moisture barrier.
Any insulation will be better than no insulation. How much you need to make it as comfy as the upstairs depends on your climate and how much of the basement walls are exposed.
–Randy
There is a bit of information lacking to this question, I think. Such as , but not limited to: type of walls you have- i.e. concrete, cinderblock, stacked stones; How much you think it needs to warm up the area; do you have a heat source in the basement area helping to heat it; do you want to just warm it up a little, a lot, or?; what is the moisture content of the area; etc.
But asked as the question is asked:
If you throw up firring strips you will be lucky to get one inch extruded foam panels between them if you intend to put sheetrock or paneling over them.
If you put up 2x4 studs{actually about 1.5 x 3.5}, three inches of extruded foam panels {a two inch piece topped with a one inch piece} will work if you put up sheetrock or paneling over it.
If you are just gonna “glue” extruded foam panels to your walls, two inch extruded foam panels would be your best bet to warm it up a little.
Be sure to account for your vapor barrier. AND don’t neglect the tops of the sills of the walls either where cold drafts may come from.
Now, If you want good isulation factor, check out R values on fiberglass and spray-on foam insulations as well. SPray-on foam does come, as I understand it from HGTV shows, in a moisture resistant type that can be sprayed in areas where moisture MIGHT collect, such as basement walls.
As one of the earlier replies stated, the answer to your question requires further information from you to help give you the best answer. First of all, I would recommend that if insulating the walls ends up being the proper course of action, I would not recommend any of the foam products as a 1st choice. For two reasons.
First the blue or pink extruded foam insulation boards that everyone is familar with are also very expensive compared to fiberglass batt insulation. Two inch thick foam board, either pink or blue, as color has no bearing, is rated at R-10. To acomplish the standard wall R rating of 19, you would need 4 inches of foam. Two inch thick foam costs about $1 per sqft where 5 1/2" thick fiberglass batt cost around $.41 per sqft. To get the equivalent R rating you would spend $2 per sqft for foam versus 41 cents for fiberglass batt. The second reason I would not recommend foam as a first choice is that it is extremely flammable. In a most locations, the building code requires that foam be concealed such as behind drywall because of its flammability. Fiberglass insulation should also be covered but it doesn’t support combustion as well as foam.
I don’t know your exact situation or the construction of your layout space, but assuming that it is a home with conventional framing, my first suggestion would be as follows.
The first floor framing members that sit atop the foundation are closed in along the perimeter of your house creating what is refered to as the “box”. The box is exposed to the cold outside just as the exterior walls are. I would recommend that if the box, which should be visible from the basement unless there is a finished ceiling, is not insulated, to insulated it. You want to fill the vertical void from the sill plate to the underside of your floor sheating with fiberglass batt insulation such as R-19. You would be surpised how much cold will transfer through an uninsulated joist/box. I would try this first and see if you notice any improvement.
Chris,
It is going to depend on where you live and what type of walls you have. Let me give you and example. I live in Minnesota(-25 below in January). My house is a split foyer(raised basement). I have block walls that I studed with 2 by 4’s and have 3" of extruded foam in the cavities. This is covered with vapor barrier, and 1/2" sheetrock. The 4’ above the block-work has standard fiberglass batts in 2 by 4 walls(again covered with vapor barrier and sheetrock). I have 3 heat registers in the layout area(20 by 25 ft). Once I get teh registers set for winter, it is very comfortable down there. While you are insulating, also sheetrock the ceiling. Your trains will appreciate it!
It’s nice and toasty tonite -My furnace died last night about 10 PM. The house held the temp to no lower than 65 degrees(about 20 degrees outside). $6,000 later I have new furnace-A/C system. The old Carrier(27 years old) lost the blower fan($400) and further inspection showed a cracked heat exchanger in the furnace. Now to get my $2,000 in ‘rebates’…
Jim
Jim
As suggest earlier, I´d stay away from from extruded Styrofoam as insulation material, and fiber-glass can also not be recommended, as its fibers can cause health problems, much more than mineral or stone fibers.
I did insulate one of my previous basements with a material call “Rockwool”, planked with dry wall boards - worked nicely.
If you can keep your basement ~ 50% relative humidity, go with R-19 or higher single face fiberglass roll. between the studs. Keep fiberglass off bare concrete floors! Moister wicks up through concrete.
Otherwise use Blue foam board 2" (polysiocynurate) from home depot or lowes . It does not support mold growth like fiber glass. It’s made by Dow and called Super-Tuff R. 2" is the minimum thickness recommended for BASEMENT walls by the goverment (R value of 12). Then put regular fiber glass in the ceiling. All other brands have lower R values. So read the product descirption carefully. Most building codes require Polyisocynurate to be behind a 1 hour firewall as it is toxic when burns! (Drywall will do as a firebreak)
You are likely eligable for large cash rebates from the government before Dec 31st under the “Cash for caulkers” program.
BTW: Most of the cold is coming from the floor which stays close to 55F year round. Putting in a false floor with carpet would help a lot. Basements, once properly insulated, require little heat as they are mostly temperature stable. There are not as many “leaks” and exposed surfaces like walls and windows above aground. This is why you can get away with a lower R value on the wall in basements.
Home improvement books at lowes and home depot will show you how.
Our problem in the south is the heat, not the cold. My train building is insulated with R-15 insulation behind sheetrock in the walls as well as between the rafters in the ceiling. I have an energy efficient 110v window unit in the summer and a space heater for the winter that keeps the room 73º year round. Down here there is no such thing as too much insulation. The heat with the humidity along the Gulf coast in the summer months is unbearable at times…chuck