I was wondering which is the best way to connect track feeder wires to the power supply bus.
As I see it, I have at least three options :
Simply strip the wires and twist them together; or
Solder the connection; or
Use terminal strips.
Option 1: This is the simplest and cheapest method; but not the neatest in appearance. There is also the question of how best to re-insulate the wires after making the connection – electrical tape or heat-shrink insulation.
Option 2: This makes a very strong and reliable electrical connection; but makes it difficult to undo. Like Option 1, there is also the question of how best to re-insulate the wires after making the connection – electrical tape or heat-shrink insulation.
Option 3: I like the idea of the terminal strips because its easier to make and unmake connections; but they do add to the cost.
What are your opinions, pro and con ? Are there other options ?
I have only ever stripped the two, wound them, and then soldered. In many cases, I don’t re-insulate. The only time I do that is when I must have two connections close together. Since I won’t be feeling around where the wires are without either turning off power first, or actually getting under the bench to see what I am doing, insulation for tucked and non-proximal bare solders is not really necessary.
I am sure those who are trained and skilled will want their electrical work to look its best, but I want my layout to look its best from the operator’s vantage. How it is below waist level, and under hardshell, is not a great concern for me…as long as it is functional, it’ll do.
Scotchlocks (trademarked, by 3M) are by far the easiest way to go. Foolproof connection ( note I did not say idiot proof) and self insulating. IF you get the right size, and IF you use SCOTCHLOCKS, and IF you use the correct crimper (or have that most uncommon of virtues - common sense), they will outlive you. If your time is worth anything they are cheap.
Many years ago I worked for Ma Bell, and we used tens of thousands of Scotchlocks, undoubtedly millions system wide, and I never even heard of one failing once contact was made. I have seen a lot of them improperly installed with pliers that never made good contact to start with, and were also not even checked, obviously. They need to be crimped with a device that maintains parallel jaws; normal pliers of course do not operate like that, and a Scotchlock crimper of course is ideal. For those who have corrosion horror stories, they also make them with silicone grease filling and these WILL hold up in a salt water beach front environment, outdoors of course.
Virginian, where did you work for ma bell? Down here in Louisiana, the telephone companies are having to go thru their systems and replace those connector every certian number of years because the hot weather and humidity causes them to corrode.
i solder the connections, its the most reliable method.how often do you think you are going to be undoing them? there is also a product that is called liquid tape just brush a coating on the splice to seal it.i`ve used this method on my utility trailer and the soldered connections out lasted the trailer.
Ditto here. To me I have a whole different standard for under-layout work: I want it to be reliable, organized and easy to work on, but not necessarily “pretty” looking.
I find this traditional strip-twist-and-solder method very quick and easy with a few little tricks. First, I use an insulation-spreading stripper. Put in on your bus wire, squeeze, and you have a nice little bare patch with no muss or fuss. Then twist your feeder around the bus and solder. I find a pencil-torch best for this soldering work: We’re not trying to make near-invisible track feeds here, it’s down-and-dirty. Hit it with the torch for 2-3 seconds, hit it with the solder. Move on…
Like selector, I don’t reinsulate unless there is something else nearby. If I did, I’d probably use the paint-on liquid insulation mentioned in another post.
I don’t think there is one “right” way to make feeder connections to the Bus. For me personally I use terminal strips. Reason? They are easy to work with, no soldering is done looking up over your head, and they are easy to disconnect for troubleshooting without cutting wires. Yes it is the most expensive way, but it works flawlessly.
Feeders for a yard coming off the terminal on a bus line. Easy to trace, and disconnect if nessessary.
I run the power to turnout frogs directly from the terminal strips on the main bus through the torti also:
I also use spade lugs on connections. Spade lugs are crimped and then soldered. This is done at the workbench and then connected at the layout.
Strip, twist, and solder. I have the scar on my right arm to prove it! The lesson is, don’t over-tin your soldering gun when you’re working under the table.
I go 22-24 AWG stranded feeders (<6" length) to 14 AWG solid bus.
I soldered my connections on the last layout, but this time, I’m using terminal strips. I love the ease of installation and neat appearance. I wish I had done it this way all along.
I use terminal strips as well. I have a different reason though. I can do the connections under the layout from my wheelchair by feel. I pre make the feeders on the bench the same as howmus.
I have used all of the above methods. I also use wire-nuts. When building custom layouts http://www.dunhamstudios.com/rrcontents.htm we used terminal strips at the end of wire runs (control panel end) and wire-nuts everywhere else.
When used properly, they make reliable connections, that don’t need re-insulating and they’re fast and cheap. They’re good enough to wire your house, so why not your layout.
I use option 1, but add wire nuts for insulation and to provide mechanical binding tension. They are great for troubleshooting because you can back probe the connection without removal. Like most methods, they are not idiot proof. You need to use the right size and twist the wires in the right direction. I got a large supply for free so that is what I use.
Simply twisting the wires will work for a while but then tension will be lost.
Option 2 will work very well but makes changes difficult. Wear safety glasses if you do this on your back or bring the wire out to the edge of the bench work to do the soldering.
Option 3 is more work than it first appears but if done correctly works well. Very easy to troubleshoot. You have to either wrap the wire around screws or use a spade connector. Wrapping wire around binding screws is easier with solid wire than stranded. For stranded wire, the spade connector makes the connection to the screw easier, but requires that you solder it. Crimping the terminal is acceptable but you will need a professional auto-crimping tool. The tool is expensive. The best way for spades if you do not own the high dollar tool is to use a regular crimping tool combined with solder.
Here is another option. Posi-Locks are a great choice and you can get them from Wal-Mart. Installation is faster and easier than Scotch locks. The Posi-Locks have passed vigorous S.A.E. testing, something Scotch-locks never will.
I always solder. Fast, easy, and cheap. I offset the two connections so they can’t accidently touch, plus paint over them with some liquid electrical tape. Need a change? Cut the wire off, tape or paint over the end, and move wires as necessary. The ends of my bus wires go to a terminal strip which presently is simply jumpered on the one side to the line comign from my command station, all i need to do to add circuit breakers to make individual power districts is remove the jumpers and connect the inputs and outputs of the breaker.
I don’t trust crimp-on anythings. At the terminal strips, I have spade connectors crimped to the bus wires - AND soldered.
Are you sure it isn’t 710 modules that are having to be replaced? They have a tendancy to “go bad” (and it always seems to be a low count on a 3600 pair cable [%-)]).
I have many of URs and UYs laying around, and am about to start building my layout and wondered if those would be of use. It sounds like they would be OK. And as stated above, definately make sure you use the 3M crimper pliers. The right tool for the job, especially in this case, makes a world of difference. I love hearing from folks that have tried to use standard pliers or channel locks for Scotchloks.
Aha. Virginian and cSmith have enlightened me! I tried the Scothlocks and could not get reliable connections to save my life. Know I know why. Channel locks.
I’m in the twist and solder camp. I have the strippers that give me a nice bare spot, strip quite a bit of the feeder and wrap. When I’m not sure if something is going to be permanent, I wait to solder until I’ve run it for a while. Generally do not insulate – my bus lines are secure and well separated. I do like the liquid wire insulation stuff (but needs to be applied with care, expecially overhead… it’s quite drippy), and have used it when things were too close. Have had zero trouble.
I worked for an alarm company back (way back!) in the '80’s, and we made all of our connections using the strip, twist, solder and tape method. A “Bic” lighter and a spool of rosin-core solder was all we ever used on the twisted wire and good, solid joints could be made incredibly quickly. A whole bundle of connections could be soldered in just a few minutes. (We all had the tell-tale burn scars on the top of our thumbs—solder bounces off before it can burn, but those drops of rosin stick AND burn!)
I’m not to the point of doing any layout wiring yet, but I plan to use the same method for making connections—perhaps using wire nuts instead of tape. The “suitcase” conectors are intriguing, but it seems hard to beat soldering. Just be VERY careful with any open flame!
WOW !!! I didn’t expect to get so much feedback so quickly. Thanks, guys !
Since I find working under the layout a bit difficult, BlindBruce’s comment about being able to “feel his way around” with terminal strips really struck me. Also, for trouble-shooting, the ability to simply unscrew the connection seems to be far better than going along and sniping the wires and then having to re-strip/wrap/solder them.
Those “suitcase” connectors do seem to be quite simple to use; but I don’t want to go out and buy an expensive crimping tool (budget is tight) when I already have the tools necessary for the three original options I listed. Also, I’d have to be sure to get the right kind of “suitcases” since the bus and the feeders are of different guages.
Although I have a tight budget, I think the convenience offered by the terminal strips just might be well worth their cost. So, I’ll give them a try and see how they work. They do seem to make for neat, easily-traced, and easy-to-troubleshoot connections. I don’t want a nightmarish “speghetti” of wires and connections under the layout like I’ve seen on some.
