I descovered a safer way to ‘pole push’ a frieght car on an adjaecent track.
Still working on a way to turn it off.
Good thing I built a test track first
Thomas J Simpson[(-D]
More details on video, This is a locomotive with an open frame motor that has neodymium magnets. The problem is these powerful magnets stacked up in the electric motor attrack ANY metal laying around the track, nails and screws and rolling stock with metal plates. The locomotive can pull or crawl up a grade without stalling. Traction is the limiting factor for the 4-6-2 on a grade.
I followed the example of RR Mel and built a magnetic pick-up car. I was amazed at how much ferrous rubble it has picked up! Better here than in speakers and motors!
My reply was in regards to the stronger magnets picking up stray bits off the roadbed, where a pick-up car can help mitigate the amount of ferrous debris left behind on the R-of-W.
A friend gave me the brass locomotive, pictured below, because it wouldn’t pull enough cars…
After replacing the magnets in the open-frame motor, I added some weight to both loco and tender, and gave it a new paint job. Next time the friend visited, I stage a run-past with the loco easily dragging 20 cars of various rolling qualities and generally heavier-than-recommended weights. He was stunned, but declined my offer to return the locomotive to him, as he had already found a replacement (which I later modified in a similar manner).
I’ve been replacing magnets in Bowser and Mantua Steam loco kits with neodymium “supermagnets.” I haven’t had that happen to me yet, but I should probably experiment.
I have had them suck up nails, screws, and a spare Kadee coupler or two while working on the loco on my bench…
I haven’t taken a picture after applying the brakes, but it does happen. I’ve had it derail a pair of 2½ pound E7s. I push my magnet toting flat car at a creep and even then it can cause havoc.
The Kadee couplers are pretty good, I use the 118 Shelf Couplers on my E7s and haven’t broken one yet.
The old Alinco magnets in open frame motors loosing thier strength was a known issue back when these were new. Pittman and others advertised Remagnitizing services in old issues of Model Railroad and RMC way back when. There just was not another option for the magnets back then. These new magnets will restore the power those old motors really have. Most better quality ones will run smooth and quiet, with plenty of torque for slow speed crawling or starting heavy trains. The motor will also run cooler and not foul the communtator as quickly with a healthy magnet. Do this service to the motor, isolate the other motor brush and your ready to DCC it. Mike the Aspie
I’d like to see how the brakes work when a strong magnet car rolls over a kadee uncoupler…
–Randy
Randy
I haven’t taken a picture after applying the brakes, but it does happen. I’ve had it derail a pair of 2½ pound E7s. I push my magnet toting flat car at a creep and even then it can cause havoc.
The Kadee couplers are pretty good, I use the 118 Shelf Couplers on my E7s and haven’t broken one yet.
Why am I thinking of the joke John Allen pulled with magnets in the end on two freight cars. It was intended to frustrate operators by not letting them uncouple. It was better when they repulsed though. He would advise the operator to corner the car on a siding so it would not get away. When they passed one another they would always derail.
Has anyone used these magnets in the old Mantua-Tyco open frame motors, or just in the Pittman and other better quality motors? If so, how do they work in the Mantuas? Dan
It works ok, but it still takes some volts to get moving.
Unlike the Bowser/Pittman motor, which is bolted together, I had to cut off the rivet with my Dremel to get the old magnet out. It took four of the magnets but didn’t need shimming, so I used superglue to keep everything together.
Thanks, Gary. That helps to know. Where did you get your magnets?
I thought I’d do a little experimenting here. I ran a stock mantua motor, noted current draw and such, then I stuck a 3/8" cube magnet on the back of the motor just to see how it would run. After trial and error orienting the poles, it improved the smoothness of the motor, still about the same current draw.
When I removed the magnet, well, the little loco wouldnt run at all! I appearently demagnetized the original enough to pretty much kill what was left of it. I’ll be buying some neo-mags pretty soon anyway.[:S] Dan
I did the same thing with the Mantua motor above. [:S] I held some magnets near it to get an idea of how well they would fit, and killed the magnet.
I got my magnets from CMS Magnetics. They have a variety of magnets and shapes. I used 1/2x1/4x1/8 block magnets but look around and see if something else will work for you.
They have all shapes and sizes I use # B428 which is a 1/4x1/8x1/2 N52. The N52 is a rating of magnetic strength there also N42 which is a little less strong .The price difference is a few pennies for the higher strength.
I used these on Pittman DC 70 motors in Hobbytown drives . Benefits are more power even better slow speed control a slight drop in current draw,about 2 tenths of amp less. I have done this on about 20 Hobbytowns.
It is very important not to leave an air gap between magnets and pole pieces. A good way to fill this gap is xacto blades. Use some old blades and break off the end that mounts in the tool,unless you want the sharp end in your motor. Most of the time you only need one blade. Leaving an air gap will degrade the performance of your motor.
This is a good upgrade of an open frame motor will cost 2.00 to 3.00 and 1/2 hour of your time .
Ron High
PS if you find your engine is running in the opposite direction of other factory unmodified engines you will need to flip your magnet stack which will correct the direction.This is very obvious in DC only operation.
With a little know how one could even power a locomotive and even an entire layout with neodymium magnets and copper coils as there is not anything else required to produce usable electricity other then those two components. There are tons of examples on youtube but nothing specifically tailrored to model railroads could be a good opportunity for someone looking to something truly unique.
