I have decided to try Pink Foam on some parts of my new build rather than cardboard web and plaster cloth. I saw david Popp’s video on the Thin Branch Series using Foam and instead of using normal compatible Foam adhesive, he stated he just used Latex Caulk. I did a test and joined two pieces of foam together to check how well they held. They had some adhesion but after a day and a half I could pull them apart and the caulk had not set up. Latex caulk normaly sets up in a day at the most for it’s normal specified use.
I can’t see waiting several days for it to set up. What are others using to adhere the foam for build-up layers of foam scenery base that is faster setting? Doug
Cheap latex caulk is what I use, but it sounds like you put it on too thick. Spread it into a very thin layer with a putty knife and it will cure faster. Since it’s a mountain, longer curing time should not matter.
What I did is squeeze a line onto the test piece, put the other piece on it and spun it around some pushing it together and let it sit. I had no squeeze out when I did this. I guess it just takes longer to cure but I think adding some weight to hold the layers in possition might help. I just don’t want the adhesion to fail in time. Doug
It is not fast by any means. 24 hours minimum. It seems all adhesives have trouble curing in the center of a foam joint where the adhesive doesn’t have good evaporation. PL300 is no different. It will do the same as you experienced with the caulking - super slow dry. I found that if I waited several days it eventually did cure. I suspect the same is true for caulk. Once dried PL300 has excellent adhesion to foam.
Mr. Engine Oiler, I am currently hip deep in creating styrofoam land masses on my layout. I have had the most success with LePage No More Nails. The product dries in about 24h, but holds together enough the first minutes that I can keep working on adding foam. I go back and do carving the next day.
I like No More Nails because it is easy to work with and cleans with water. I tried the PL for foam and found it to be too sticky and too stringy - in short order I had the stuff all over my work area and clothes. Possibly others are more careful and have better luck. In the end I’ve had the most success with the LePage product.
It’s ~$2/tube at your local handware store or home center and comes in a variety of colors. Since it’s a silicone-based adhesive, it uses acetic acid (vinegar) to cure the caulk and it starts to set up after 45 minutes or so. (This allows you ample time for any adjustments.) I also like the fact that it doesn’t have all the nasty chemicals that some of the other foam-friendly adhesives do.
Curing time is overnight (I usually let it go for 24 hours) and it holds VERY well but remains flexible. I also use it for adhering foam → cork, cork → track, and cork → wood. While remaining flexible, you can pry it up with moderate, steady pressure and a broad putty knife. Great stuff and inexpensive.
I’ve always just used plain old latex adhesive caulk. Yes, it takes longer than 24 hours to fully set up, but just because you CAN pull it apart using force, doesn;t mean a stack of it acting as a mountain form is going to come crashing down on you. If you stack up pieces with a bead of caulk to hold them together, by the next day you can start on the next layer around it. Anything you add would be pushing DOWN, not trying to pull the pieces apart.
I only use foam for many Military diorama’s that I build, don’t have any foam on the layout, but when I do use the foam, I have had great success using this product:
That’s what I figured. I was curious since it was latex caulk with silicone. I think I would prefer to use a straight latex caulk since it cleans up with water.
Thanks to all. What I used was DAP Dynaflex 230 and I almost bought the DAP Alex Plus. I know about the Loctite but heard alot of ventilation needed when using it. Where I live it is 22 degrees right now so no open windows wanted. I think I’ll try the Alex Plus and see if it cures faster than the 230 does. I was going to use those metal “T” pins to hold in possition but toothpics sound just as good. I did check my test cure awhile ago and it is getting tighter. I also wanted to be sure the caulk would be paintable just in case. I have never seen a Lepages brand where I live. Doug
I to am an inexpensive latex caulk user. Have never had trouble with it slipping if I left it overnight. I never really reefed on it either, but it didn’t move when I was doing the next normal work on the layout.
Have heard that white glue has been found still liquid after months, as once the edges dry, no air could get in to dry the rest of it. The caulk may never fully dry on big peices (never pulled any apart to see), but it has quite a bit of “stick” even before it cures. I have some small pieces that I stuck together and after a short time couldn’t get them apart by pulling.
I just started my layout, I’m a novice. I used Loctite power grab. It is ok for foam, you can maneuver for 15 minutes after applied, and had no smell I noticed and I used it in a spare room in my house with windows closed. As I said I’m a novice and this may not be everyones choice… but it worked for me. I personally dont want a caulk gun full of leaking product sitting in my closet as I have little outdoor storage.
I stoped by HD and picked up some DAP Alex Plus and I will try it later, on a couple pieces of foam and see what it does in my dry climate. It’s cost here is $2.28 each and tax. I like cheap. Doug
I use DAP Alex Plus acrylic latex caulk plus silicone to glue cork roadbed to foam and track to the corkroad bed. It cleans up with water and is paintable. Check the label on the tube.
It’s a popular misconception that latex caulk containg silicone does not clean-up with water and is not paintable. People confuse this caulk with a caulk product made by GE which is a silicone-based caulk which has a very strong vinegar (acetic acid) odor and does not clean-up with water and is not paintable.
Another adhesive that people have used to glue foam to foam is latex (water)-based contact cement. I’ve not used it myself but it’s suppose stick immediately when the two peices of foam are pressed together. You need to be sure where you want the pieces because they can’t be moved after they’re pressed together.
Thanks for reply Bob. As I said above I picked up a couple of tubes and they say paintable so will try. As always things happen. My main motor control switch on my Delta bandsaw burned up and I have been trying to find a replacement without waiting a month to get one, so I haven’t gotten back to the foam work. Ha, never fails, Murphy is always peeking around the corner trying to find something to foul up. Doug
