I just got a Proto2000 F7A that came with the proto Max couplers althoughthe couplers were NOT attached to the locomotive. Rather than put them on I am going to go with Kadees from the get go. I checked with Kadee and I have the coupler #'s that I need. sa far as the proto Max couplers are concerned, one is a short shank and the other is a long shank. Will there be an issue if I dont use a long and a short shank Kadee?
You’ll affect how close the diaphragm are to each other between A-A and A-B units.
Check the original coupler length and see if it matches up to what you have in Kadees
not necessarily, depends on track curvature, turnout numbers, etc.
you may find that a medium or short shank works fine … or that the long shank is necessary for your curves.
Also, available mounting points may force your hand on that matter (e.g. if the coupler box is set back from the front of the loco shell a bit).
I like the idea of alternating long and short shanks (actually medium and long shanks in my case), and I do this on all of my passenger car equipment.
Rich
I think a longer shank coupler is suggested for the pilots. I, myself am a confirmed Kadee user, but the metal Proto Max couplers are very good. If you are looking to go to a ‘scale’ coupler, then I can see making the change. I have an ABA set of P2K F7’s and still have the Proto Max coupler on them - I never have had a problem. I do change out any plastic coupler - They just are not as reliable. I have a plastic container full of the plastic couplers. I put them on cars that I am going to sell at a local train show or eBay.
I used to leave the plastic couplers on cars until there was a failure, then replace them. I buy Kadee #5 and #148 ‘Whisker’ couplers in bulk packs at a good discount over the Internet or at trains shows. This comes out less expensive then the Walthers Proto Max couplers(even ‘on sale’ at Walthers).
Jim
Unless you are set on using “scale” head couplers, I see no reason not to use the ProtoMax couplers that came with the model. They look and work virtually the same as Kadee, and seem to be just as durable.
I have a number of older Athearn F7As. I found that I needed to use long-shank Kadees on the front to clear the pilot.
Just get them both. Seventy years from now, if you die with an extra long-shank Kadee coupler in your parts box, let your heirs figure it out.
I was going ot say “if the one you put in breaks,” but then I remembered that Kadees don’t break.
So are you going with the #58 or #48 series? If not I agree with the others, that there is virtually no difference between the Kadee #5 series and the Proto Max. I am not certain I could sort out a pile of them into the two brands.
On the rear their will be a larger gap between the loco and following car when using a longer shank coupler. On the front if a shorter coupler is used there might be issues getting it hooked, especially with the trip pin of the car being coupled hitting the pilot.
If you are going to all the trouble of changing to Kadee, why don’t you want to use the appropriate/recommended length couplers?
The long one was likely for the pilot.
I have 1 car with the proto-maxes and the only difference with them and a Kadee is they are slightly larger.