So I’m not looking to expand my universe but I do want to buy more locomotives. I see the Proto 2000 line less expensive than others. Your thoughts …
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They are excellent. Sufficient detail, great pulling power, good runners.
I have lots of them.
Rich
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Any downsides comparison from lets say walthers Proto ??
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Walthers Proto is the newer version of Proto 2000 once Walthers bought Life Like. There may be some modest improvements, dunno, I will leave that to the rivet counters (LOL). But, honestly, I don’t notice any difference and I have several of each version, Proto 2000 and WalthersProto.
Rich
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Difference between proto 1000 and 2000?
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I have never owned a Proto 1000 loco. My understanding is that the 1000 was less detailed than the 2000. I cannot speak to the mechanical assembly.
Rich
Blue box Proto2000 locos produced under LifeLike ownership and for sale on places like Ebay or at train shows are 20 to 30 years old. They produced very high quantities of many of these locos and many are still available “new old stock”.
As Rich says, they are good locos. They were cutting edge when new and hold up well today.
Some production runs did suffer from cracked drive gear problems, but parts are still available and inexpensive, and the repair is easy to do.
I have a large roster of them and would never consider replacing them.
Most are not DCC equipped but are easily converted.
Sheldon
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Forgot about that but replacement gears are readily available. Good point, Sheldon.
Rich
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I have a few P2K units as well. (Four GP18s and an SW1200.) They are very good units for not a lot of cost. As said, they’re not DCC but they work very well on DC setups.
The 1200 has been repainted to represent an NP unit.
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I have several of each. All are good runners and sasy to conver to DCC. The Proto 1000s are a little less detailed. But still nice in my opinion. I did have to replace the gears in most of my proto 2000s but since that the run really nice. Did my firs DCC install in one of them.
Al
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With some work, Proto2000 models can easily be brought up to today’s standards. Maybe not the Rivet-Counter quality of ScaleTrains, but decent enough to match current standards of Atlas and Athearn models with little effort. Sometimes there may be minor paint issues, e.g., mismatching color of plastic details, but nothing that can’t be fixed if it bothers you.
Here is a U30B and a GP30 that I purchased used within the last year or two. They are between 20 and 30 years old. I gutted the electronics and added a Decoder Buddy, a 21-pin LokSound decoder, a speaker, and new LED lights. They run just as good as everything else in my fleet.
The U30B, which is MUed to an Atlas Geep. They run great together:
The GP30:
Hope this helps,
DFF
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Nice ask a question and get intelligent and informed responses with pictures and everything. Wasn’t sure about P2k until now. I’ll give it a go when budget dictates. Thanks
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I was wondering about that. Wasn’t sure if the “Proto”
was generic marketing or being specific. But noticed the box fonts were similar…makes sense now …cool. G.
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Sheldon nice Red rig BTW.!!
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DFF, good looking scenes, as always. 
Rich
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Mention drive gear issue…I read an advertisment for a Grande the text mentioned no cracks in drive axles…is it the coupler housing over the worm gear at the truck differential ? Then I believe ( no coffee yet) it was mentioned Athearn axles. I’m assuming better part. ?? Wow that wasn’t easy before a cup of Joe. G.
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The cracked gear is the small black toothed piece that fits on the axle.
Rich
To my knowledge they also have some different models, for example I have a proto 1000 Budd RDC.
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