This is my first time to this forum, but have long been a subscriber to Classic Toy Trains. Recently, my Grandpa and I have started thinking about building a hi-rail O scale layout, so I figured this would be a great place on asking any questions that come up while building the railroad.
As of right now everything is just in the planning stages. I have recently read that using insulation board found at home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowes make for good bases for the layouts because they are quiet and are easy to manipulate to form custom terrain. We are thinking we will have the insulation board sit on top of a plywood base which will sit on the bench work. Now my question is: does the size of the insulation board matter or make any difference in building? I have seen the boards in 3/4", 1/2", 1" and 2" thicknesses. Does one work better over the other? Thanks in advance for the answers.
If you would like to work with less layers, then use the 2" foam.
The 2" sheets of extruded Polystrene foam are more sturdy as well and only need a light wood framework and thin plywood for support as opposed to thick plywood sheets.
I am not sure where you live but if you live in Southern CA you are out of luck as they only sell metal coated polystyrene sheets that look terrible after peeling the coating off. You probably don’t live in So Cal so you can get the proper boards. I agree that if you can go 2" do it. I had to use the coated foam and I was only able to get 1" here at the time. Tip number 2 make your mountains and tunnels before laying ground cover. I also agree that you will be able to use a thinner plywood base. Tip number 3 if you have the room go as big as you can even if you cant afford all the bells and whistles right now you will have room to add them later. Tip 4 last but not least buying materials, if you have a Michaels arts and crafts store near you go on line and get their 40% off coupons and buy your plaster cast there you will get twice as much for almost half the price. Do not fall for the Woodland Scenics or Scenics Express brands, you can find the non-model RR brand there just ask. You can also get your paints there Yellow Ocher, Black, and Burnt Umber again half the price for twice the amount. You can go wrong with this forum everyone is great here.
@RRaddict: No, I live in Nor Cal. I have already been to my local Home Depot to confirm they carry it. Thanks for the other tips as well, I shall keep those in mind.
Traditional tabletop is just that, a 4x8 sheet of 1/2 or 3/4 inch length (or multiple lengths) secured to a wooden frame. This is what the majority of model railroaders (in most scales) start off with.
Cookie-cutter benchwork takes a bit more planning, as you will lay out your track plan, and jigsaw out the sub-roadbed (plywood). You can then add risers to create grades, which creates contour and more interest on your layout.
Either is fine, but to help you along better, need to know which direction you are leaning. Also, will this be a permanent or temporary set-up?
At this point we’ve talked it over and we think we’re going with Cookie cutter benchwork. I talked to the guys at the local train shop and they said that having foam for a base is not good, for over time it warps under the weight of the trains. They said its great for scenery, but not for under the track.
I agree with Seyakbill, the foam is glued to the plywood with liquid nails or the equivalent and can not break free to warp and makes for a quiet ride. You are very lucky that your Home Depot has the blue foam boards as the enviromentalist out here hate it.
Thank you both for that bit of information, my next question I guess is: how should I secure the track to the foam boards? We are planning to use FasTrack, I got some tips from CTT, on how to weather the track to make it look more realistic.
AZ is a very dry low humidity area not like closer to the coast can be. moisture in the area is a factor to consider if its not a problem then you are right it is a great product.
Hello again, I agree that you don’t need to fasten the Fast Track down at all but if you do I went with Grip Rite 1 5/8 square head screws. They are perfect and fir flush into the screw hole on the track. They come with a square bit so you don’t have to worry about that. You may need shorter screws depending on the foam thickness remember I am using 1 inch foam board. The second thing is if you are going to use hydracoal plaster for rocks and plaster cast to make your mountains buy Scenic Express product as they are half the price of Woodland scenics. You can spend 10 bucks for a gallon of their spray on glue instead of mixing your own.
Some good tips here. I used the pink foam. Locally, the only carry it in 3/4" sheets. This actually works great for a base as it is the same height as most of the bases for lionel and other make accessories. I had screwed the Fastrack down to the foam, then I used caulk along the road bed. I then removed the screws. I think it does decrease the noise a bit and makes for good scenery when painted.
Thank you all for your help and input. I think at this point we will glue down a 1" blue/pink foam board on top of plywood and will lay down the track on top of the foam.
Now a few more questions have arisen. We have been looking at the MTH DCS remote commander, item number 50-1033 and pair it with the 100-Watt Transformer Power Suppl, item number 40-1000A. My question is can it work with Lionel FasTrack or do I need to use MTH track. And can I use it to run non MTH locomotives, and activate the sound from said non MTH engines if they have it?
Also my Grandpa and I were possibly looking into a Williams by Bachmann Southern Pacific Daylight GS-4. How good is their quality of engines? How good is their sound system? Do they run smooth? Just the usual questions one asks before buying new engines.