Curious just how close you come to the backdrop with your roadbed (given the typical minimum of 3 inches from outer edge of sub-roadbed).
Alan
NMRA standards suggest 1 1/32" from the track center line to the wall or backdrop in HO standard gauge. But to allow for track curving near the backdrop, for longer equipment and emergency finger room, a bit more distance is not a bad idea. I usually use 1.5" from the center line.
Then the roadbed follows the track.
Far enough away from the backdrop to get your fingers between the rolling stock and backdrop to correct any derailments. If you put it too close, Murphy’s Law says that will be where you have the most derailments no matter how perfect your trackwork may be.
or about 1/2in from the edge of roadbed?
so you would be about 1 inch from roadbed (assuming a 2.5 in track to track for finger room)?
I believe my closest distance is over 1.5 inches from the roadbed edge to backdrop.
Alan
or about 1/2in from the edge of roadbed?
so you would be about 1 inch from roadbed (assuming a 2.5 in track to track for finger room)?
I believe my closest distance is over 1.5 inches from the roadbed edge to backdrop.
Alan
So far all the answers were related to clearance. I’m looking at appearance, and for that the key is No shadows on the backdrop! If the train is casting a shadow halfway across the plains to the purple mountain majesties beyond, it must be just after sunrise, or else just plain ugly. OTOH, if the backdrop is a rock face or a brush-covered hillside just beyond clearance, the shadows aren’t quite as objectionable.
Most of my background will consist of vertical scenery (my prototype ran in a canyon) but there is one place where things spread out a little. My intention is to leave about five inches of clearance from the nearest track bumper to the first thing that would be unrealistically shadowed by rolling stock.
Lighting also enters into this. If your scene is lit almost vertically, it’s a lot easier to control where shadows fall.
Chuck (Modeling mountainous Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck’s comments reflect my thoughts. Thanks, Chuck.
Mark
I agree with what chuck says.[tup] Wherever the track gets close to the backdrop there will be a rock face or trees or something else that the shadows will fall on. Having the shadow of a train on my rocky mountains that are suppose to be fifty miles away would drive me nuts.[banghead]
Brent
Hi!
I recommend you leave “some” space so as to put a little foliage between the roadbed and the backdrop. This will go a long ways in blending in that 90 degree angle, and help soften the transition.
You also might want to vary the distance (snake it around a bit) which would tend to make it “more interesting”.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
Hi,
I agree with Mobilman44. My closest track is 3.5 inches to center of track and snakes along my 18ft wall. I wanted to be able to put some scenery between the wall and track.
Wayne
All depends on the particular scene your modeling. An area where I want typical back drop structures I leave at least 4" from the wall to the edge of the roadbed. I don’t typically like to just stick a back drop building up against the backdrop but some ties hide the backdrop some what with those building flats or a wall of some kind maybe a row of trees. In scenes where no buildings are present like where the rains is going through farm country on my layout the track is about 2-1/2" from the edge of the roadbed.
Directly related to this is a little trick I learned from one a seasoned modeler who has been lets just say around the block and knows how to build a really nice looking layout is to curve the lower portion of your backdrop ever so slightly so as you don’t see that sharp transition from horizontal to vertical. Start the backdrop on the horizontal plane and slightly bed it upward. We were having a discussion on how to be able to make the curve and the back drop still be supported I experimented with a small piece of cove molding set so one edge meets the edge of what ever your using for the horizontal plane and the other edge meets the material used to support the backdrop in my case Masonite. I think if you can accomplish hiding the edge and giving the illusion that there is a seamless transition between the horizontal and the vertical planes you can allow your track work to be even closer as your not going to be concerned with hiding that edge.
Interesting, creative idea. Thanks
Alan
PS Smurfs turn green.
I have seen this in museum dioramas and it is very very effective. If one had the room to do this it would really make a huge difference to the appearance of the layout. I have seen these curved backdrops go back as much as three feet slowly gradually curving up to vertical.
I would think it would be fairly easy to do with 1/8" Masonite. It will eat up room space though.
Brent
Brent,
I have done exactly as your describing with 3/16" Masonite to cove inside and outside corners but what I am referring to is using sinple inside cove molding like you get in Lowes or Home Cheapo where the top of your bench work meets the wall or backdrop. I see your point about the more curve you use the less you’ll notice the transition but I think if you use even 3/16" Masonite to make your curve you’ll loose too much space. If you place the cove molding shown here in the corner of your bench work and then place the backdrop material lets say Masonite on the wall and butt it to the top of the cove molding and then place the top of the bench work to the other edge you’ll get that slight curve just enough to hide the transition. As soon as I get the new yard built I’ll post the pics of how I did this.
I still have time to incorporate this great idea in suitable spots on my layout. Or at least experiment with it. I look forward to the pics.[:)]
Brent
A bit off topic, but I could really use some feedback on my latest design (posted at http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/169691.aspx )
Thanks
Alan
Doc,
I have to say thats a pretty impressive track plan for a relatively small area. Lot of potential switching action. The only thing I personally would do is put a nice big yard between Windsor and Enfield I’ve been told and have always thought that you should take advantage of your longest section to put in as large of a yard as it can handle. I like operation and making trains so to speak so yards are very appealing to me. I also like the movable diorama of Springfield a very cool idea. It’s a creative way to both use space but not clog things up plus I assume it’s on wheels or caster so you can move it into your work area for detailing etc. It seems like it everything you could ask for in that space, nice work
Thanks for the positive comments. The presence of a yard is a matter of preference (givens, druthers, focus on operation vs. running). My preference is scenery/structures and references to prototypes, rather than operation or emphasis on track (Springfield for example). I do have some room on the lower staging level (no shown) which I have not fully exploited yet.
Alan
“I do have some room on the lower staging level (no shown) which I have not fully exploited yet”
Words we all wish we could say, Doc I hear you on the preference to scenery etc. I tend to lean in the direction as well being as I really don’t know squat when it comes to operation. When people in the know start talking to me about all the technical aspects of operation train orders weigh bills car cards etc. I usually get that deer in the head lights look or figure out what their first sentence means by the time the conversation is over.
I should point out that the lower deck is only about 6 inches below the sub-roadbed on the main level (needed non-incline space for the return loop; plus the fact that the main level on the layout will be 4-5 inches above the sub-roadbed (plywood or foam base).
Alan