The HO #5 Kadee coupler sags a bit in the box. I can adjust accordingly, but I want it to be level. Placing a shim inside stops it from moving freely. What do you do to keep the coupler level? Jim
I was able to “cure” one of my sagging #5s by putting the bronze spring on the bottom instead of the top. The other didn’t respond to this treatment and is still sagging.
Joe
Sometimes I put a small piece of folded paper at the front of the coupler pocket to help support the coupler.
Several things to try.
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Drill and tap for a screw to hold the coupler box cover in place. Tightening the screw just the right amount squeezes the cover down on the coupler.
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File off the cast on coupler boxes and replace them with Kadee coupler boxes.
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Use a thinner shim. Make the shim out of something slippery.
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Try assembling the coupler box with the bronze centering spring on the bottom of the coupler box.
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Try filing the mold parting marks off the sides of the coupler box and make sure the metal coupler box lid (Athearn) is gripping the box tightly. Bend the lid edges in to make the lid grip better.
Good luck
I’m guessing you have either BB Athearns or maybe Bacgmann pasenger cars - both notorious for the sags! Changing over to the KD coupler boxes, with the above suggestions, should take care of the prob!![8D]
If it is an Athearn metal coupler box cover you can bend the outside end lip up VERY slightly. Be careful that the coupler still swings freely from side to side.
If I’m mounting a #5 in its box, I’ll usually put a styrene shim (.010" thick by .1" wide, cut to fit the opening) under the shank, glued to the “bottom” of the box. You don’t want to go more than about .010" thick or more than .1" wide, because then you do end up with the coupler being wedged in and unable to move.
If you’re using the old plastic clips that Athearn used on their Blue Box locomotives, I’d suggest ditching them and mounting the coupler with a #5 box. You’ll have to drill and tap the frame for a 2-56 screw, but that’s not terribly difficult.
May your Kadees never sag! [:)]
It cracks me up to think I could write a story called “The Mysterious Case of the Sagging Kadees” and everyone IN here, would know exactly what its about.
I usually go the opposite direction, I file the center boss on the cover a bit shorter, and the slots (side and rear) the same amount to allow you to make the box opening just a bit narrower and eliminate the sag.
Also a good idea! [:)]
Of course, the newer boxes that Kadee sends out with their whisker couplers seem to have tighter tolerances so no shimming/filing/etc. is needed.
Group, There are a number of issues that need a bit of direct Kadee input. First, the #5 box is designed to allow a “slight droop” and the bottom edge is tapered to assist the coupler to slide during the uncoupling over a magnetic uncoupler. If you do not like this bit of droop use a narrow thin shim under the back of the box to tilt it up slightly. The next thing is to put a narrow thin shim on the bottom front edge under the coupler shank but no more than .010" thick. These are the only two solutions we recommend. NEVER put the centering spring on the bottom of the coupler. You may think this works OK but you will eventually have some problems. The spring is designed to “only be on top” of the coupler. If you take a close look at the spring and the coupler shank you will find the spring arms are not the same, one is actually stronger than the other and at a different angle. The angles of the coupler shank are different, they are not symmetrical. This design allows the coupler to move in the direction of uncoupling and have a stronger resistence in the other direction so one coupler won’t pull the other over during uncoupling. If you put the spring on the bottom you are changing all the physical dynamics of the design and if you use magnetic uncoupling you are asking for trouble. Doing this may seem OK if you are not doing any switching and are simply running the couplers together for long periods but it’s certainly not recommended by Kadee.
Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products
Wow! That’s some good information there, Sam. It’s nice to see the manufactuers and retailers providing feedback on these forums. It adds to the feeling of “community” in the hobby. [tup]
Thanks again for the great info.
Thank you Sam for the info.
BTW: Kadee is the only way I go!
-D
No, it’s not the ONLY way to go - but it’s probably
THE BEST WAY TO GO!! [:D]