I just applied a WS dry transfer to a window. Normally after applying these to a wall or sign, I seal them with a little dullcoat but I don’t want to cloud up the window so I am wondering if there is an alterative. I have a Micro Mark decaling kit that includes Badger Clear Gloss, Satin, and Flat finishes. I’m wondering if any of these would be a suitable alternative to use on plastic window glazing. I’m going to try a small sample of each on a scrap piece of clear plastic to see what they leave when they dry. If this doesn’t work, are there other alternatives.
Try it on a test piece first, but on most types of clear plastic I have had pretty good luck with clear finger nail polish.
I would stay away from anything solvent based. I’ve had them ruin dry transfers in the past.
I would go safe and cover the clear plastic. This is what I do with windows when I weather an engine.
Wolfgang
I have yet to progress to the point of detailing windows, but I would think that a water base finish would work.
As already stated, a test on the same type of window glazing is a must and do keep away from the solvent based finishes.
I also wonder if two glazings (one over the top of the transfer) in a sort of thermo-pane would look OK.
For many years I used Krylon Crystal Clear to seal dry transfers; very light touch with a sweeping motion: too much will cause the dry transfer to wrinkle. After it dries (doesn’t take but a few minutes) add a second coat if necessary. I’ve used on various surfaces, including clear plastics.
Use in a well-ventilated area.
Testor’s Glosscote, but actually since the window won’t be handled, as long as the dry transfer is burnished down well, you don’t need to seal it.
I have been told that Future acrylic floor finish will work, though I have not used it for that purpose. It works great to glosscote under decals.
The plastic airplane modelers use Future to clarify their canopies. Pop over to Fine Scale Modeler forum and look up Future under the aircraft heading for detailed instructions.