Here I will give you my first impressions as it pertains to my purchase of 15 pair of Sergent Engineering couplers.
I knew about this product for a few years now but I have been reluctant to take the plunge. With permission from the boss, I placed an order for 15 pair of the couplers (5x6pack), an assembly jig and an uncoupling wand (absolutely nessesary).
The couplers themselves are diecast and have no flash. You get the feeling of quality the moment you open your first package. Then you realize that the couplers are small…they are scale…and they are a sight to behold!
Each coupler has 4 parts;
Upper coupler mold
Lower coupler mold
Knuckle
Ball bearing.
Assembly is easy, and only takes a few minutes a coupler. The assembly jig is a must. Assembled couplers are available, but 4 assembled couplers are the same price as 6 un-assembled. This version of the coupler is the Kadee compatable one…more on that later.
The magic is in the ball bearing. It drops (via gravity) and locks the knuckle closed. When it is brought up (via magnet wand), it unlocks the knuckle. Simple. We like simple.
Here are 2 comparative photos. The first Van has a Kadee-clone coupler and the second an SE coupler.
Note that these couplers lack a centering spring (just like the prototype) so the coupler has side to side slop… That way, coupling on curves is no longer an issue, you just need to line up the knuckles.
Also note the open knuckle. Yes, you can now have an open knuckle. Try THAT with a Kadee or clone…
The Kadee compatible draftgear box takes away from the appearance of the Sergent. They sell them with the Accumate:Proto HO gearbox which looks more like the prototype.
The Accumate draftgear box on the left with their “scale” coupler looks so much better. The Sergent is on the right with the KD compatible box. I use the Accumate:Proto HO couplers, I found they work well and look really good on the layout.
My major gripe about these couplers is the apparent problems in uncoupling passenger cars or car body locos (like F-units and FA’s) where there is a diaphram. The diaphram prevents one from getting the magnetic wand over the ball bearing in the coupler, which means that one can’t uncouple the cars without lifting one over the other.
And since the NH’s locos were almost always both freight and passenger, I can’t seriously consider any coupler that won’t work with passenger cars…no matter how much nicer they look (and they do look nice).
Thanks for the review, David. I’ve been waiting to see what anyone else thought of the Sergent Engineering couplers. Based on your comments, I have ordered a couple packages of the kits, the uncoupling tool, and assembly jig to give them a try.
There has to be a solution. I agree with you, as I have alot of passenger equipment. I dont run them on my home layout, but I do run them at shows with my FreeMo group.
I think that it would work with a stronger type of rare earth mag.–There is someone here that I’ve seen use one–but you have to be a little more careful with how you do this—it probably would take practice as well.
To tell you the truth, with close coupling and diaphragm, its not very noticeable what type of knuckle is under there… Perhaps just addding them to one end of the head end cars, as well as the tail car on the train?
Thank you for your short review. I have one question though -
How do they work?
I understand how they couple and uncouple, but how do they work? Do they break apart on a long climb, on a long train? Does slack snap them by the end of the train? Do they uncouple by accident on “real” (less-than-glass-smooth rail)? What about crossovers?
I realize that you only recently got them, but I’m very interested in hearing your comments after they’ve had some operational road testing.
How do they work? Well I havent had much time to play yet, but so far I have a few idea…
They couple and uncouple but require more attention than your Kadee. You need to line them up to couple (and have alteast one knuckle open) and use the magnet to uncouple.
Slack is a non-issue, because there is next to none. They couple tight, just like the prototype. No more Mr-Slinky.
They cannot uncouple because the ball bearing locks the knuckle in place. There are 2 ways to open the knuckle; turn the unit upside down or use the magnet.
Remember that because they couple tight, there is more face area contact or more friction between the couplers. Kadees just have a point of contact while these have a full knuckle contact.
Cross overs and tight switches are dependant on your draft gear box. If you use Kadee boxes (of their equivilant) then you have lots of side to side play. You can even couple on 15" radius if you want to (think about those tight industrial sidings).
I have come across a downside; car wieght and wheel friction. It would be preferable to have heavier rolling stock with not-so-free rolling wheels. This will give the ‘mass’ feeling that is lost with Kadees.
Anyways, off to work. Just wanted to jot down some thoughts before I head out.
I have always been intrigued by these, though I am not in HO I still like to keep up with things. They are basically operating on the same principles as a real coupler. Its very interesting, but I would also wonder about the compatability with other brands, after all even an X2F mates with a kadee if done right. I actually was so impressed with the Kadee “Scale” couplers that I bought a set, can’t use them on my trains but love the appearance.
These couplers are not a good choice for most. For clubmembers, I doubt many other members’ cars would have them, assuming you expect to operate with another person’s cars… ( I’ve lived a protected life and have never been at a club where members switch the consist of their trains. Operations seem to be “I’ll put my train on the track and run it around the layout.” So, maybe that’s not a problem in a club setting…Bad example.)… Now, if I was into to Proto87, with scale wheel treads and almost-so flanges and the accompanying almost-scale tolerances in turnouts, then I’d likely go with the Sergent’s if operations were “easy going” and exceedingly accessible. Nevertheless, the extra hassle of aligning couplers and opening them to couple is not consistent with an operationally-busy layout. So, Sergents aren’t consistent with my needs.
The Accumate Proto: HO coupler is a really good compromise. It is slightly larger and couples automatically with KDs and the clones.
My original draft gear box has been modified to look like a 1905 wood frame. Modern applications the car draft gear box would be removed.
I have not used them with “magnetic” uncoupling but it is available. They look more like real couplers than the other “scale” couplers because they don’t have the dreadful spring. They couple with less force than KD’s or the clones. Notice that the car detail guys in RMC are using them. I really like them.
I was wondering if we could please keep this on topic. [:(!] This is a review thread for Sergent Engineering couplers, not a “my coupler is better than your Sergent Engineering coupler because” thread. If you don’t have any experience with the SE couplers, then a direct comparison is nothing but conjecture.
No, these couplers are NOT for everyone. They are not meant to be and I am not saying that they are. However, I enjoy the extra ‘hassle’ of having to line them up because that is what the real ones do. My goal is to push for realistic operation (these couplers being one factor in realism as they operate like the real ones do) rather than efficient operation.
I have used Sergent couplers and yes they duplicate prototype action. That is their problem. They are real pain in operation. They make the placement of industry a real dilemma. Unless your little people operate the uncoupling operations there is a real problem with coupling and uncoupling loctions. Sorry Dave I don’t conjecture. Just offering an alternative.
Having done a “link and pin” system to duplicate 1870’s operations. Once coupling and uncoupling locations become critical it is difficult to retrofit on most layouts because of track locations.
No where did you mention you using them before. Most people on these forums just give opinions without actually using products. So my apologies.
In terms of the “pain of uncoupling” I just don’t see it. Just use the magnet and move loco (or car) at the same time. They come apart beautifully. I can see your point in terms of uncoupling location, but that is the beauty of my shelf layout. The difficulty is in coupling, ie, lining the couplers up…but…hey…the prototype has to do it.
