Weathering a turntable

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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I just installed my new Walthers 130’ DCC Turntable. This thing is really cool. My first turntable.

I just finished weathering the bridge. But now the pit looks out of place.

What should I do with the pit? Do I use the same colors I used on the bridge? Or should I use some black/grey oil stains?

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Black / gray oil stains.

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Hi Michael,

long time no see here!

Weathering a turntable is a bit of a challenge, as you have to watch out for those moving parts. Take a look at the picture below:

As you can see, there are grimy and oily spots, rust, and cracks and crevices.

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Also, notice the lack of a wide concrete lip around the perimeter.

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Hey UIrich, been a while since we talked.

Thanks for the photo. That gives me some quidence now what to do.

I will post some more pics when I get the pit done.

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This is how I did mine. The base paint from the factory was a tan colour, not the grey I see in yours, Michael. So, I used Burnt Umber after I painted a black ring and covered it with epoxy to simulate brackish and oily water around the pivot. Plugged drain in the center of the pit, I guess. Later I scored the pit wall with a sharp hobby knife to simulate form lines, and then painted the whole with a heavy Burnt Umber wash. The wash ran down over the epoxy, but it was easy to wipe up before it hardened. Then, under the ends of the radials that come to the lip of the pit, I painted rust streaks with acrylics, usually a mix of red and yellow with tiny bit of brown.

With the base primer colour that you have, or maybe it’s the styrene dye, I would use a fair bit of white and a lttle brown or tan and see if a heavy wash of that makes it look more like concrete.

Crandell

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One thing I have always noticed is TT pits in coastal areas have the stained concrete look, however they tend to be a lot cleaner than those that are located inland or in mountainous areas. This is because of the horrendous amounts of rain coastal areas generally receive. Turntable’s inland `have a much muckier look about them depending on how much snow and/or blowing dirt and debris the area has to deal with.

I have a TT on my Christmas list but I am not holding my breath.[(-D]

Brent[C):-)]

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Thanks for all the suggestions, I appreciate the help.

This is my extension room layout. And the modeled location is Cheyenne, WY.

So I’m modeling the UP Turntable in Cheyenne. The UP 844 Steam Preservation Shop next to it.

I just found the satalite image of it. So it looks like the pit has oil stains, grime, and cracked cement.

I have a plan now…

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Hey Micheal, that’s a seven stall roundhouse. You are going to have to get Walther’s to make a four stall add on kit.[(-D]

Brent[C):-)]

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I think the best way is to always use a pic from your prototype. If free lancing try a pic from a road in the locale you’re modeling. You can never go wrong with imatating the real thing. The track looks great, what are you using.

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OK I just weathered the pit. I scored some cracks in the cement.

I also added some black to the bridge in between the rails.

Let me know how it looks now?

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I would say it looks very good, although I find it a bit grey. I might score it up more and wash it with a very light, whitish tan colour. But, honestly, you have improved its look temendously.

Well done, Michael.

Crandell

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I think you are off to a good start Michael. The cracks look good as well as the shades of grey. However it looks like my concrete driveway does after I have given it a good clean with the pressure washer. A very clean old driveway. A little grunge with some dark brown, rust and grimy black weathering powders, not a lot, and it will be perfect.[tup]

Brent[C):-)]

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A very good start, indeed, Michael!

Needs some rust, though.

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Thanks Crandell!!! I’ve always loved your turntable.

I used the weahtering chalks here. So instead of the wash, should I just lighten it up with light grey chalk?

Also, my prototype bridge. The center tower is white. Do you think I should paint mine white also?

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That’s a good photo. I like the grime along the bottom of the bridge and under the bridge at this end. I would use chalk to lighten it up given the choice. As far as the tower being white, it probably has been many colours over the years so I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

Just my[2c]

Brent[C):-)]

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Thanks Brent. I’ll try to lighten it up some then. And I think I will just weather the tower, to match the bridge then.

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Michael, I would try a swath of light tan, almost white, and see if that doesn’t make it look more like what the photo shows or what your eye says the concrete should look like. You can always rub it off if using powders.

White will lighten what you have, but I’m (and this is just me) used to seeing concrete look more creamy/tan/grey with streaks and pocks and stains. With the powders, you can cover anything previously applied or rub then away and try something else. Washes in acrylics can only be covered or abraded away. If you prefer the rubbing powders, please do continue to do what works for you. In the end, your eye and feedback from other observers besides me, in balance, will be your guide. As it stands, it’s miles ahead of the item as purchased, and I firmly believe you are making excellent progress.

Crandell

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OK I just finished some more touch ups. I lightened it more with light grey, I don’t have any cream/white powders.

I added some more cracks, added cracked to the wall. And added some rust on the wall.

Better?

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Now where some of those cracks are maybe add just the smallest amount of ground foam and maybe a small tuft for weeds.