There has GOT to be a better way of gluing in clear plastic windows. Whenever I do it, no matter how small the amount of glue I use the windows “fog” up. I might as well build a building without the windows or paint over them.
What do you people do? Any advice?
Thanks.
Paul
Testors has a glue for clear plastic pieces
Diluted white glue
Micro Glaze from Micro Mark
http://www.micromark.com/micro-glaze-15-oz,7585.html
Apply them all with a toothpick.
To be completely honest with you, I honestly think they are all the same thing.
It’s also possible to glaze entire windows with this stuff instead of using the plastic pieces in the kit. One of these windows was glazed. Can you guess which 1 of the 4?
Thanks. I’m gonna try all three.
Go to a LHS that sells plastic model airplanes - Ask for ‘Canopy Cement’…
Jim
Never heard of it, I’ll look tomorrow at my LHS. Thanks again.
Ask your LHS for canopy glue. As mentioned above Testors makes it “Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker” others have different names for it. I have used it, no fogging and even where I have goofed and gotten it on the visible part ot the window, it has disappeared when it dried.
Good luck,
Richard
What type of cement are you using? if it is solvent-based liquid, that will always cause problems. Even if the glue itself doesn’t physically touch the visible part of the window, fumes from the “outgassing” that occurs as it dries could damage the clear styrene.
It’s been awhile since my last structure build, but I think I may have used Elmer’s.
CA glue. You’re exactly right, it is outgassing. I’m gonna try all the suggestions. I especially like the Micro-Mark stuff but wanna try the Testors too.
Thank you all for you help.
Paul
Double post.
Future Floor Polish - a clear acrylic paint - many on the models forums use this as a glue and also to clear up scratches in clear plastic we use as windows.
I have used it as a glue and also to glue the clear plastic on the backs of windows - it isn’t that strong but it sure will take the scratches out of the clear plastic!
I won’t use anything else where strength is not important.
BOB H - Clarion, PA
I use Canopy Cement for all my windows. Any that does squeeze out on to the window can be easily removed with a toothpick after it’s set for an hour or two.
For some multi-pane windows, I apply Canopy Cement to the window without any additional clear plastic glazing. It will bridge over the openings and harden clear. When it hardens, it has a lot of curvature and acts like a distorting lens. With windows like this, you can light the interior of the building, but visitors on the outside can’t see in, so you don’t need an interior.
I use Tacky Glue or Weld Bond, which I am pretty sure are like the other glues mentioned. Both can be found in just about any craft or hardware store (including Walmart). They’re inexpensive for a large amount.
What I like best about them is that they can be wiped off with a damp tissue or Q-tip if you smear any during gluing. And they stay flexible after drying unlike typical white glue which gets hard and loses its grip.
Jim
Microscale also has a product called Micro Krystal Klear which is both an adhesive for clear plastic and a window forming material.
It works well as an adhesive but as far as windows go I don’t like the effect. The problem is that the film formed is not perfectly flat. The Micro Krystal Klear collects around the outside edge of the window frame. It is thicker around the outside edges than it is in the middle. That results in a pane that is slightly concave which shows when light is reflected off of the surface and distorts the view of anything inside the structure. It does not look like real glass.
There are a couple of alternative materials that work for window glazing:
The best is real glass. Ngineering sells .005" x .85" x 1.70" real plate glass. As someone said on a post several months ago, “you can’t beat the realistic reflection of real glass…”. You can use CA on real glass but the Microscale products are easier to work with because any visible excess can be removed before it fully dries. You have to scribe and snap the glass to cut it to fit. There is a certain learning curve to that, and not all cuts will go the way you want so there is some waste.
http://www.ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm Scroll down a bit.
Here is a selection of relatively inexpensive scribing tools (I am referring to the individual tools, not the sets):
http://www.tedpella.com/tools_html/54410.htm
Evergreen sells .005" clear styrene. You must use a non fogging adhesive such as those mentioned above. Regular solvent styrene glues will fog the surface:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/269-9005
Dave
The one on the bottom left with the fingerprint?
After much frustration attempting to scratch build storefront window systems, I finally tried using Woodland Scenics Scenic Accents Glue. Brush a thin layer of this glue onto the inside perimeter of your window frames and let it dry completely. Next, position your glazing piece over the window and press into place. That’s it! No glue squeezing out and no fogging. Best of all, if you misaligned your glazing the first time, you just pull it up and try again. No need to apply more glue and any glue that does come off on the glazing can be rolled off with your finger.
When building storefront systems, I start with a slightly oversized piece of glazing material. Then I cut and fit styrene strip pieces to make up the storefront frame. I paint the framing pieces before attaching them to the glazing. I next apply a thin coat of Scenic Accents Glue to the back side of each framing piece and let the glue dry completely. At this point, I can simply align each piece over the glazing and press it into place. If I get a piece on crooked, I simply lift it off, roll off any glue that stuck to the glazing and try placing the frame piece again. When each storefront window is complete, I apply a little more Scenic Accents Glue to the inside perimeter of each window opening, let the glue dry, then press the completed window assembly into place.
One other tip: By the time I measure, cut and install a piece of clear styrene, I usually find that it is covered with so many fingerprints and scratches that it looks terrible. Thus, I like to use the clear plastic cover sheets used to spiral or comb bind business reports. Since these sheets are designed to be handled by the report reader, they are far more scratch resistant than clear styrene. Fingerprints can easily be wiped off without scratching the clear plastic. One small box of these cover sheets from an office supply store could provide you with enough
The hired help at Sunrise Feed Mill don’t do windows. [:P]
And it’s the top center one.
For most of my structure windows I use slide covers, which are real – extremely thin – glass. They do not fog up regardless of the cement used. But if you need to snap one to make it smaller the sharp edges (and resulting bits of glass) are a bit of a hazard.
Dave Nelson
HA! What a coincidence! This is the structure I’m building right now!
Thanks everybody for your excellent suggestions, more for the archives. I appreciate it.
Paul
I’ve recently discovered a product called “GoToGlue” (found at home centers) that works extremely well on clear acrylic to styrene for windows and I’ve even used it to glue USP car sides to a painted/sanded rough car. Longer set time than ACC but no fogging and holds extremely well when dry.
Try a little nail polish remover and qtip to get the fogging off. That has worked well for me. If you have painted the area, be careful not to get the nail polish remover on the painted area.