Wow Mel, that works good for enlarging. I totally forgot about that feature.
Mike.
For years, I used lacquer thinner as a solvent-type cement for styrene and it worked extremely well: styrene-to-styrene bonds were easy to make and permanent. Even joining large surfaces (greater than 1āx1ā) was possible, as the lacquer thinner evapourated at a slow enough rate that both surfaces could be coated, using a 2"brush, and remain wet enough to create a strong bond. However, I am no longer able to buy that type of lacquer thinner, as government regulations have resulted in a change in the chemicals used: it still works well enough as a paint thinner, but no longer reacts sufficiently with styrene to create a good bond.
MEK does react with styrene and does create a strong bond. However, it evapourates so rapidly that itās almost impossible to coat large surfaces and have both remain wet enough to create the bond. You could start a bond along one edge, then separate the unbonded area, slip a large brush between the two surfaces and make a pass, quickly removing the brush and pressing the wetted surfaces together. Youād need to continue in this manner until you had worked your way right across the area to be joined.
Wayne
Hereās a better closer up photoā¦
So, if not laquer thinner or MEK, then what? Contact cement?
Rich
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All You have to do is right click on all His picās in this thread and they will be larger.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
I think what Dave was wishing for was the ability to zoom in on the image, not merely to enlarge it.
Rich
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Plastruct Plastic Weld, Orange bottleā¦it contains MEK.
If You lightly sand both pieces that You want to glue, it will weld better and stronger than just brushing it on. Also if You coat both pieces that You want to join and they are already drying they still will bond to one another like contact cement. Once set, You could still add more if You like it will draw in quicker to the sanded surface. Just a small edge is all that is required to sand. I use 220 to 320 grit.
And if You are worried about spilling the bottleā¦drill a hole in a scrap piece of 1x and insert bottle in hole, after opening, wonāt knock over.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Not much to work with.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
Thanks, Frank, I will go with that recommendation.
Rich
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Rich,
Testors cement in the black triangular bottle with the needle aplicator is also very good. It has the right solvent action and will stay wet long enough to spread on two pieces and laminate effectively.
Guy
Hey Mel!
You just taught me something new - I had no clue about the browser magnifier!
Thanks
Unfortunately the picture resolution isnāt good enough to see what the dark dots are on the roof but Iām guessing they are there to keep the snow from sliding off.
Dave
Rich:
For what itās worth, the slope on the roof is about 5/12. If you are not familiar with the nomenclature, that means for every 12" the roof runs horizontally it rises 5".
Dave
They are called snow or ice guards.
I think they also are referred to as āsnow dogsā or āice dogsā.
Hi richotrain
I am not great with scatch building but one thing I have learned is the .020 thickness plastic is to thin to go unsuported.
You need to frame it or stick it to a thicker support sheet.
You can use the foam core sheet as a backer sheet but you will have to be very carefull to make sure 150% sure any super or other glue is foam safe.
You will also have to do any plastic to plastic bonding the day before its stuck to the foam core and hope it doesnāt twist, plastic glues will melt the foam
regards John
Henry and farrella:
Thanks, yes, I knew what they were called. I was just being lazy. We also call them āsnow birdsā.
The thing that is strange to me is that there are so many of them. We use them here in Ontario but there are usually only one or two rows, not most of the roof. Also, they are primarily used on metal roofs, not asphalt. However, they must have had their reasons. I would have a word with the installer though. They arenāt spaced very evenly![swg][(-D][(-D]
Modelling them could be tedious.
Dave
I donāt think itās an asphalt roof. Looking above the dormer on the left, the edges are very prominent. It might be slate or now they have a synthetic slate.
And there are many types of metal roofs, too, that have the look of slate or shingles. If it was metal, that would explain the reason for so many snow gaurds, because of the large area.
Mike.
Henry:
You might be right. Certainly the ridge caps seem to have the profile of steel shingles when you blow the picture up.
On the other hand, where the snow birds (or whatever you wish to call them) are inserted under the shingles there appears to be quite a shadow, as though the shingles have been pried up. The shadows are not uniform so Iām thinking that the shingle tabs are in the process of settling down around the snow birds. To me, that suggests asphalt shingles with the snow birds having been installed in colder weather. Crappy job if you ask me.
Ultimately we can discuss the snow birds, dogs, contraptions, whatever you want to call them to death, but weāre not helping Rich much with his project. (Sorry for hijacking the thread Rich). I think the real question is whether or not to model them. I would say ānoā because I think they would distract from the structure, and it would be a heck of a lot of tedious work.
What do the rest of you say?
Dave
I would say forgetāem. I Googled the mansion, not many pictures of this particular building, but other pictures I did see, the guards on not on there. One picture shows some type of guard that runs parallel with the roof, in 3 places, spaced evenly.
This would be a great project, as I have been watching this thread. Everything on my layout is scatched and bashed from other parts. Even if you couldnāt get correct dimensions, you can still make a structure that is proportioned right, and āfitsā what the proto looks like.
Mike.