Walthers 90 foot turntable kit - 2nd Update - Looking for pictures of finished TT scenes. Also more details about the modifications.

Hi EMDSD40:

Quite the ordeal! You have every right to be frustrated.

I’m hoping that my bridge will be quite stable with the kit bashed bogie assemblies. As far as I can tell the new wheels sit nicely on the ring rail and everything rotates smoothly. The bridge doesn’t rock. Of course I don’t have any track set up yet to test it.

I’m going to use a train set power pack to turn the bridge so I can control the speed of rotation. Alignment will be visual. I’m hoping that will work. It will be a while before I can test it.

The engine service facility will be one of the focal points for me. Having a turntable and roundhouse were two of the first requirements when I started the track plan.

Regards,

Dave

TY for the thought. I hope you are successful in your install. A lot of work, planning, and money went into this…win some and lose some. Visual alignment of track was impossible due to placement on the layout. Once installed and programmed I would have relied on the controller to properly index the track. Best of luck with your installation…Ed K

Thanks Ed K.

You have caused me to stop and think about the turntable location. On second examination, it is too far away to see the track alignment properly. A little while ago I increased the size of the helix over which the turntable will sit. That added about 1’ to the reach in distance. The result is that the turntable can barely be reached. Not a good plan! Back to the drawing board.[banghead][sigh]

Dave

Dave… On yur weathering … you can try adding a bit of gray to tone it down to your liking. light or med, just a little at a time. I would also suggest doing avery small section at first to see if it has the effect you are after. If you need to remove weathering, use a q tip or cotton ball with alcohol. I have done this on painted models, and as long as you dont scrub the paint will stay…

Thanks Tony

Dave

Tone it down? Well admitedly this pic was not taken in the hey day of an actively used TT

Henry!

What a great shot!!! That is the best picture of a well used pit that I have seen! Thanks so much![bow][:D]

The pit is obviously well soiled from years of use. I love the rust and grease stains that have accumulated where the locomotives come on the the bridge from outside the roundhouse. The apparent water stains or wet patches look great too. I now have a much better idea of how to get the look I want.

Quite the collection of locomotives too. All nice and shiney.

All the best!

Dave

Sorry that I haven’t posted recently. I was waiting for some shoe dye to arrive so I could stain the bridge planks. It is 10 days overdue so I have asked for a refund.

In the mean time I have taken a shot at modelling the sort of weathering shown in the picture that Henry posted. Here is where it stands. The rust stain will be under the bridge when the bridge is set to the main turntable feed track, hence the accumulation of deposits where the most traffic is. However, the rust stain needs to be toned down significantly and made to look greasier in the middle:

Here is Henry’s picture for reference:

http://www.railpictures.net/images/d2/5/1/7/3517.1478039898.jpg

By the time I get this right the pit will be filled up with paint and weathering powder!

Dave

Toned down rust stain:

Waddya think? I’ll have to make the bridge really rusty to explain the stains in the pit.

Dave

It seems to me that the only thing that can explain that rust staining in the prototype pit is parking the bridge in the same position when the turntable in not being used. That makes sense in a museum setting, but would that also be the case on your railroad? And to that degree?

When I browsed my limited collection of turntable photos, I saw a couple that had some degree of staining, but nothing as severe as that in Henry’s photo.

Here’s another pit for your consideration. [:-^]

CG

The biggest issues were:

  1. Keeping the pinion teeth clean and free of debris. Many people resort to covering their table when not in use.

  2. The contacts getting dirty between the finger brushes and the ring on the bottom of the bridge.

  3. The cutting out of sound as the turntable crossed the halfway point.

Problems 2 and 3 are solved by replacing the center split ring/brush arrangement with a slip ring system and a DCC auto reverser.

Edit: I’m talking about the built up DCC one. But I see I am late to the party. Sorry.

Never seen that one before, filled with water and alge growing.

And as bonus, a worker in the pit requires two flags, one blue, and one red with a white stripe! [4:-)] [:P] [;)]

CG!

Did that come with goldfish?!?[swg]

Yes, the rust stains are still way too prominent. I seem to lack a subtle touch. I should have paid closer attention to Henry’s photograph. I had it in my mind that there was lots of rust but there wasn’t. It actually looks more like grease and oil stains that have dropped between the ties on the bridge. I’m still learning! There is hope!!

Dave

Don:

You are not too late to the party! I’m sure that lots of folks with the built up units are watching the thread.

I have addressed the contact issues with the rings on the bridge shaft by bending the contact strips into a ‘V’ shape so the pressure is more concentrated. Someone suggested that earlier in the thread.

An auto reverser will still be required to keep the locomotives running in the right direction.

Thanks for your input.

Dave

Dave,

The pit looks better with the toning down on the bridge rust spot. I would soften it a bit further if it were my project.

BTW: I really like the other stains and debris that you added.

I can’t wait to see the bridge in place. Did you find a reliable source of Kiwi yet?

Guy

Hi Guy:

Yes, as you and CG have pointed out, the rust stain is much too prominent. My problem is that I have run out of the grey Polly Scale paint that I used for the base colour. I have several other greys but none of them is even close. I’ll have to do some mixing.

Thanks for the compliment on the other stains. Henry’s wonderful example was a great inspiration. However, I still have to tone down some of the white marks because they are too symetrical. Like I said, by the time I get it right the pit will be full of paint![swg][(-D][(-D]

Take care!

Dave

Found some Polly Scale greys in the back of the paint drawer that I could mix to match the original grey base colour. Got rid of the rust stains:

Next step will be to add some grease and oil stains under the bridge position where the main access track lines up with the pit.

Dave

Dave,

I came across a few photos from the NYC’s Ashtabula roundhouse. NO arch for the motor power? Some turntables were air driven from the locomotive’s brake pipe. Looks like wires strung along the hand rail?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/115892967@N03/13977905194

Can you fit another track in there? [:|]

Your pit is the pits! [Y]

I found a photo in the NYC Headlight Magazine where they used an old pair of tender back-up lights as spot lights at the bridge ends. I’ll have to dig that up and post it…

In the meantime, in Bethlehem—

https://www.flickr.com/photos/78326321@N05/8345821459/in/datetaken/

Regards, Ed

Hey Ed:

I don’t think so!

I didn’t know about air driven turntables. I haven’t given much thought to how to model the power system. Thanks.

What were the wife and kids doing at the roundhouse?!? Did they let the kids run the train and they went too fast as usual?!? Seriously, it appears as though the locomotive was coming out of the roundhouse. Someone must have really messed up to have that much power applied, although I guess the locomotive would still try to move forward whether the wheels were on the tracks or not. I didn’t see any guard rails on the bridge. I’ll bet they regretted the lack thereof.

Thanks Ed

Dave